Whirlpool ET18HKXWW10 Refrigerator Getting Weak

[Fixer]

I bought this fridge in 1991.  Two years ago its run time increased to nearly 100%.  The coils are external in the back and i cleaned them off but it did not help.  The temperature was pretty normal but it ran constantly or nearly constantly.  So.... i unplugged it for a day to let everything equalize and then turned it back on.  No real change occurred but after maybe a week or so it began to improve with time until it began working properly again!  Mystifying at least to me it is.  Now, two years later its back to its old tricks.  Temperature is about normal but its running about 90% on.  When i touch the coils in the back, they are pretty warm but not as hot as I remember when things are working right.  So, does anybody have any suggestions?  I was told the compressors on this model are extremely durable.  If its something else, i think i could do it myself but I need help diagnosing the problem if its not the compressor.  All help will be appreciated.

[johntech]

First make sure the compressor is running then pull the back wall of the freezer apart and you will find the evaporator coils. They should be evenly frosted. If they are not then you are most likely leaking refrigerant or the compressor is breaking down. Either way it is normally cheaper to replace unit then repair. 

[johntech]

Also could be as simple as a bad door seal letting out the cold air or a defrost issue. Check door seals and put eyes on the evaporator and report back what you see. If door seals are bad you will normally find moisture or ice on walls or around seals.

[Hiroshi]

I would remove the back panel in the freezer compartment and look to see of the tubing "coil" is completely covered with a layer of frost- a "full frost pattern."

If there is not a full frost pattern, you may be able to add refrigerant.

Also, what does the compressor itself look like? Some of these older models had a rotary compressor which tended to run for a good lifetime, but then collapses internally- sending particles throughout the sealed system and contaminating it...

The rotary compressor is cylindrical...

 

[Fixer]

Thanks for the responses folks.  The last time this happened I verified the defrost cycle was functioning properly.  I looked at the coils in the back of the freezer and they were frosted but as I recall not evenly frosted.  Some areas had thinner frost than others.  It will be a few days before I can do that check again. The door seals look good to my eye and there is no visible moisture on the outside or near the seals.  The compressor looks oblong round, all black and similar to the two shown in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M4NSnX3jykQ so I think its cylindrical.  For the last 2-3 years, at the moment the compressor turns off, it makes a thud sound kind of like a 5lb bag of sugar was dropped on the fridge from a height of 1-2 feet.  it didn't used to do that.  Does this help at all?

 

[Fixer]

Here's a better link to a similar looking compressor:

http://www.webstaurantstore.com/true-842512-1-8-hp-compressor-208-230v/200842512.html?utm_source=Google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=GoogleShopping&gclid=Cj0KEQjw4fy_BRCX7b6rq_WZgI0BEiQAl78nd4xwX-vh8RxD2gNVD_hxOqszXxLP9qYegPr0nooMhJwaAsyp8P8HAQ 

[16345Ed]

What are the temps?

[Fixer]

Fridge is 34.7 F

Freezer is 10 F

[evaappliance]

The noise is just weak springs that the moter in the compressor sits on, have seen them run for years doing that . Need to look at the evaporator with the frig running as hiroshi said and you will have your answer .

[Fixer]

OK, i pulled the rear panel in the freezer to expose the evaporator.  The fridge had been running for about 10 or 15 mins when i did this.  The coils had a thin layer of frost covering the whole evaporator.  After running with the evaporator exposed for another 10-15 mins the lower horizontal pipe in the evaporator lost its frost over the right two thirds of its horizontal length. I took pictures of this but I don't see how to attach these.  Also there is a front set of pipes and a rear set of pipes in the evaporator.  While i had it exposed, i didn't look carefully at the rear set of pipes but i looked at the pictures after-woods and when the lower front pipe lost most of its frost, it looked like the rear set of pipes may have also lost much of their frost.  

So what does this all mean?  Weak compressor or what?  What does it mean if the frost is not a full frost pattern?  As a reminder, I'm trying to find out if there is an inexpensive fix for this 25 year old fridge.  If its the compressor, I'd like to know since I would assume that's too complicated for a DIY'er.  Thanks for the help!

[johntech]

Ok so it frosted then the frost stopped and disappeared. It will work for a while after unplugging unit then goes back to weak cooling. Most likely the compressor is breaking down and throwing restrictions. No easy or cheap fixes for that. Time to start shopping for a new one.

[Fixer]

That's kind of where i thought this was heading but wanted to hear it from someone who knows more about this stuff.  Thanks for the help. 

I hear that the compressors in the new refrigerators don't last as long these days.  Does anybody have a suggestion on which brands might be good bets for longevity today?

 

[evaappliance]

just pot luck on a good brand , just don't spend much . 5 year normal life on most all things now :/

[Fixer]

Well that's not good news!  I wonder if the new shorter life times have to do with the same kind of efficiency mandates that brought us the high efficiency washing machine that has folks wishing they'd fixed their old one? 

[Hiroshi]

Yes. The same smart thinking that got rid of reliable electro-machanical controls and pilot lights...

[evaappliance]

more efficiency or more power = less life & dependability !!!!!!!! 

[Fixer]

Smart thinking alright.  Save me $20- per year on electricity so I can run off and replace my fancy fridge every 5 years!  Ouch!