Whirlpool EC3JHAXRL00 inverter or MOBO?

[alph seeker]

Hello and thanks for this excellent resource!  Whirlpool side by side fridge model EC3JHAXRL00.  She quit cooling.  No compressor, no fan.  After unplugging to disassemble, then plugging in to check voltages, fan came on.  Later fan did not come on.  About a month ago I replaced the capacitor to the fan and she has run fine until now.  Capacitor still looks good and is tight in motherboard (MOBO).

I read the post below and am trying to determine if the inverter is bad or the motherboard.  Here are my numbers:

 

Compressor 9.6 ohms all three terminals = check

 

Power input to inverter = 220 V AC ==check

I get no current draw on the feed while all connected and power on.  SO, I suspect the inverter.

I could not reach the J15 terminals on MOBO, so checked at plug to inverter = 3.3 V DC.  Post below indicates should be 4-6 V DC.  Is this a case where values can vary between models or is my inverter not getting enough voltage?  If so, does this explain why no current draw from inverter?

Questions:  which one is bad, inverter or MOBO (main control) board, or both.  Any other tests?

 

Should the fan come on regardless if the inverter is bad?  Or is it being off normal because after all, compressor is not hot?

 

Thanks for any help.  Food is in coolers, so it's either fix it ASAP or time for new one!

 

[16345Ed]

20 minutes ago, alph seeker said:

Power input to inverter = 220 V AC ==check

220 or 120 VAC?

If cabinet temps were up you would expect motherboard to be sending close to 6 VDC to inverter to run compressor at full tilt. 

So it seems like motherboard. 

If you buy from AppliancePartsPros you can return them if it doesn't fix your issue. 

[alph seeker]

oops, 120. sorry!

Hey, thanks.  By the time I got to it, temps were about 40 freezer/ 50 fridge.  Also, when I fixed the fan last time I could tell the compressor was running, albiet very quiet.  This time I hear and feel no signs of life.  So, 6 VDC is the standard for all of these inverters?  Any thoughts on whether something is affecting the motherboard? Surge? The MOBO is discontinued and first searches show used ones too expensive.  If I repair I'm wondering if something is going to take it out again?

Would the 3.3 VDC vs 6 to the inverter keep it from drawing current?  Wondering if there is another test I can do to see if I have a bad inverter too?  Although that would be a coincidence unless something like a surge could have taken both out?

Thanks again!  Mike

[16345Ed]

Need the tech sheet from your unit to check specifications. Look in machine compartment or under a hinge cap for the sheet. 

 

[alph seeker]

Dang, I just saw that sheet, too and now I can't find it.   I had cleaned the coils and the sheet must've come out.  Well, I re-checked the readings.  Connected, I get 3.3 VDC, disconnected from the inverter, I get 5.6 VDC.  Seems like it's about 1/2 on both counts what it's supposed to be.

There is a "service kit" which is actually the whole shebang (harnesses, box, power cord) - more than I need for $425 - more than I can spend.  And it won't ship for a few days at least.  Found a place that will repair my board for $150, but that will also take several days.

Any suggestions on what component on the board I could replace myself?

[16345Ed]

I would suspect the inverter. Now it sounds as if the board is sending 5.6 vdc

 

Part number: W10629033

 

 

 

 

[alph seeker]

22 minutes ago, 16345Ed said:

I would suspect the inverter. Now it sounds as if the board is sending 5.6 vdc

 

Part number: W10629033

 

 

 

 

That's with the harness unplugged.  I thought I read that unplugged it should get around 12 VDC, and plugged should be 5-6?

 

But yeah, the fact that the inverter doesn't seem to be drawing any current off the 120 VAC feed indicates failure (according to the article I posted in my OP).  So, you see I have indications that BOTH the board AND the inverter may be toast -- but somehow I don't believe both are.  I feel like it's a crapshoot - fix the board or buy a new inverter and see if it works.  Trying to not throw parts at it.

Thanks for the insight - should the inverter draw current even if the board is not sending signal?

[16345Ed]

Do you have a clamp on amp meter?

need to see if inverter is trying to start the compressor. 

Unplug unit, clamp meter around one of the 120VAC input lines to inverter. Plug unit in and see if it draws any current. 

If 0 inverter needs replaced. 

[16345Ed]

Btw all voltage readings should done with all connectors in. 

[alph seeker]

32 minutes ago, 16345Ed said:

Do you have a clamp on amp meter?

need to see if inverter is trying to start the compressor. 

Unplug unit, clamp meter around one of the 120VAC input lines to inverter. Plug unit in and see if it draws any current. 

If 0 inverter needs replaced. 

No, just probes.  Can you measure AC current without the clamp adapter?  That really is the question - will the inverter try to start if it's not getting the proper voltage signal from the motherboard.  I might be able to get the clamp adapter.   IF it tries to start (as described in the OP post I referenced), would that indicate a bad motherboard (ie - low voltage?)

[16345Ed]

35 minutes ago, alph seeker said:

No, just probes.  Can you measure AC current without the clamp adapter?  That really is the question - will the inverter try to start if it's not getting the proper voltage signal from the motherboard.  I might be able to get the clamp adapter.   IF it tries to start (as described in the OP post I referenced), would that indicate a bad motherboard (ie - low voltage?)

Look for an LED on your inverter it will be between the connector with white wires and the connector with red wires. If you have new design inverter.

LED Off – No failure detected

2 Flashes – No 3 – 6 VDC signal from the control board

3 Flashes – Inverter failure

4 Flashes – Compressor failure 

 

3.3vdc is acceptable from main board  

 

I really think you need the inverter.  

 

   

[alph seeker]

Ours must be too old - no LED, unless it is on the board itself, inside the housing?  I was away for a bit, just seeing this now.  I took the motherboard out and mailed it for evaluation or repair.  Supposedly, if the board is not the problem I won't have to pay for it.  I should have it back in less than a week, so we'll see then.  Kinda nice that I really can't do anything more on the fridge till I get it back- burned a day on this. Really appreciate your help on this so thanks again.

[16345Ed]

Yep older design. 

 

My money is on bad inverter. 

 

Report back and let us know. 

Good luck

Thanks

[alph seeker]

I certainly will.  Ah well, at least it's cold outside now so the coolers don't need a lot of maintenance.

[lvasquez11]

Replacing capacitor on control board only corrected power supply section. A defective relay on board will prevent condensor fan from running.  

Run compressor n fan test in diagnostics 

[alph seeker]

I replaced the inverter and she's running fine again. To cover the bases, I sent the mobo out to be checked while I was waiting on my new inverter to arrive.  The inverter arrived sooner than I expected, and the mobo checked out, so I did have to wait a bit until the board came back.  If anyone needs their board checked or repaired, I had great service from a place in FL called www.boardbusterz.com.  A guy named Tony there was very helpful and was honest with me that my board did not need repair (though he did find a few things on the iffy side of spec.)  Thanks for the advice here - with the help of some good people I was able to get some more life out of our fridge!

[16345Ed]

Thanks for reporting back!