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kenmore top load wobbly and clutch leaking


FixitRts

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  • FixitRts

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On December 9, 2016 at 4:02 AM, evaappliance said:

Do this first, it is more likely & will not have to be disturbed if you have to continue on to the seal on the basket drive. You would have to pull the transmission to replace that seal, not terribly hard to do , just doesn't need replaced that often.

Got the washer disassembled again and seal was in flush as instructions required. I also can see the area where water was pooling and its on frame right after seal and before gear house.

i cleaned shaft...seal opening and seal again. Sprayed Flex Shield complete outside 

relief hose looks like little filter inside. Can it being clogged create overflow so I blew it out and will try and see if it's removable. 48 RCS to cure the FS so any responses appreciated in meantime.

Thanks

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I got a response. And I mean this to be funny. 

"I'll bet you drove the auto dealership service department nuts getting your car fixed. L.O.L.

Oh well I thought it was funny.

Quick

 

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1 hour ago, Quick said:

I got a response. And I mean this to be funny. 

"I'll bet you drove the auto dealership service department nuts getting your car fixed. L.O.L.

Oh well I thought it was funny.

Quick

 

How did you know...-_-

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43 minutes ago, FixitRts said:

How did you know...-_-

Good. I'm glad you took that it in the friendly nature it was meant.

Tell ya what man. As hard as you have worked on this machine. If you do see a little crack line in your tub I'll pass a old tech tip at you. A soldering gun with flat blade on it will close that leak if you get it good and hot and just run the hot blade along the crack. Weld it right up. 

Quick

 

 

 

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It's all good.

I consider leak test unreliable. (Flex Shield (FS)guy should do a commercial where he rides in a washing machine tub). FS a shot in the dark...yet machine appears to have tighter operation. (? the mind doesn't want to feel effort is wasted). The rubber-raised coating is like sound deadening. Does it seal leaks is the question. NO WATER on the floor with a moderate load. I'll keep observing as the loads should get bigger over the weekend. If leak returns I will try and run with cover off/open?...rigging switch so it runs. Then try and see water seeping out and hit it with a solder gun ala Quicks' tip

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Did a few loads and on the last one stuff some extra in and saw a small puddle peaking out toward the front. Previous evidence had been all along the left side. A smaller leak remains. Apparently the flex shield coating and extra torque on all the screws, etc did something. If I can run it while cover is off....trip the door switch somehow (any ideas...I'm sure there is a way.)I can see where to solder(melt the plastic...great idea by the way)

otherwise I'll be annoyed by an "acceptable leak" :((put this sucker on car towel duty in the garage and who cares if there is a little water) until I can't take it any more:angry:

ive scratched a bald spot on my head...

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take the cover off , cross out the two wires on the lid switch that is NOT green and run it.  hope you can nail it down that way

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On 12/15/2016 at 1:23 PM, evaappliance said:

take the cover off , cross out the two wires on the lid switch that is NOT green and run it.  hope you can nail it down that way

Thanks for tip. In my frustration a new outer tub seems reasonable yet can't find one listed yet it on the schematic #23 under the inner tub which is listed. I'll have to call them but in meantime I probably need to SEE it actually leaking from outer tub first. (IF that what it is)Will it get messy running without a top?

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Ref# 23 is the centerpost seal that was referenced above.

The outer tub is ref# 22 but Sears won't ship it to a customers house because of oversize shipping charges - You would have to call Sears number to get their price and probably pick it up at a local Sears store, this is the note that explains that:

Quote

Contact customer support for availability.  Call 1-800-252-1698
Due to the size/weight, we are unable to deliver this part directly to your home. The Parts and Repair Center in your area can place this order for you. Click here to locate the store nearest you.

Your outer tub is part# 63849

Use the above number and search other parts sites for it.

$133.05 at APP but make sure you check shipping charges, (this is an OVERSIZED item to ship and shipping can run $75-$100 at some places).

Part number: 63849

Part number: 63849

Edited by Budget Appliance Repair
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Hey thanks so much for that part info because once I see it leak and if solder doesn't stop I will pursue replacement...

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On 12/1/2016 at 7:51 AM, evaappliance said:

Assuming the seal job was done right the shaft seal http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/WP8577376/0026/110.html or a hairline crack in the tub will be the only things it can be if the leak is still around the clutch.   NEVER listen to advice from sears 

 

On 12/1/2016 at 9:43 AM, Hiroshi said:

Yeah, Eva is on track... get a bright light and look closely at the bottom of the tub, a crack will usually look like a white line from below, and these tubs tend to crack where the "fin" makes contact with the tripod frame from "slamming" to a stop or banging around heavily off-balance. The "fin" is to the right of the hole in the tub if you are viewing the machine from the front, and it juts downward a few inches from the plastic tub bottom... but you should run a cycle of wash while laying below and watching for where the water is coming from.

When you installed the tub seal, was the tube it wraps around smooth and clean? 

Well, if you find a crack, buy another used whirlpool or kenmore of similar vintage and "frankenstein" them together to get back to "leak-free."

Here is where I missed this advise which would have had me doing what I did today...watching washer run with cover off. Sure enough from inside bottom of clutch water drops began on spin cycle. Not coming from fins above outside seems to be inside. Is there a seal inward of clutch(shaft seal from first quote) or would a clutch kit include that or be the prudent repair?

guys I think we're getting somewhere..thx in advance

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On ‎12‎/‎8‎/‎2016 at 6:38 PM, evaappliance said:

the other seal is at the top of the basket drive, under the drive block that holds the inner tub.  

 

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29 minutes ago, evaappliance said:

 

Most clutch kits I saw 20.00 avg so I gotta go through it. Is this the part quoted earlier

eal http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/WP8577376/0026/110.html 

and is repair a matter of similar remove inner tub and get at from top it go from clutch side. It seems to do clutch machine best on its side get in from bottom. I'll look for a vid...thx Eva

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got to take the inner tub and tub block out , then pull the trans and basket drive from the bottom , seal goes in top of the shaft you pull the basket drive out of.  a good video will help you greatly !!

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I saw the clutch replacement video so you're saying as I pull the shaft out there will be the seal in question or is it up in the hole? Just making sure we're on same page.

 on some exploded view diagrams I see a seal on top of shaft but no description 

widh I had saw this before I ordered. Maybe I can cancel and reorder all 3 and save shipping 

thx, thx, thx

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18 minutes ago, evaappliance said:

since you are going this far may want this one too.   http://www.tribles.com/parts/FSPWP91939   this is not likely but better than tearing it down again for another $5 dollar seal !!!!!

Confusing on which is the same seal. This you give is "upper transmission shaft seal"(utss) does not fit 110.29822800(correct model no.) but there is a shaft seal listed in parts list for this model....AP6013519 is the number. I can take it apart and maybe number will be imprinted on old part

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I saw the clutch replacement video so you're saying as I pull the shaft out there will be the seal in question or is it up in the hole? Just making sure we're on same page.

 on some exploded view diagrams I see a seal on top of shaft but no description 

i got any and all seals for transmission so thru process of elimination and customer service at APP's got the WP8577373 coming Friday so I'll get the old one out and read it tonight and see if we can get this monster sealed up

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Okay...I've got the motor out and the clutch is a little wobbly so as much as this thing can shake A new kit will add some life. Took retaining clip off upper "flywheel" and teardrop bearing came off easily and now I'm stuck. It I see the spring and behind it is a screw offset but is this the next step in getting to shaft seal. Unless I need a special tool that's the next step. Can't find a video y'all...

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Parts are here and one seal about size of shaft other smaller than that. Since shaft came out with nothing on it I'm going looking for a seal to replace...maybe it'll fall out. Guess I'm on my own...???...onward we go

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Parts are here and one seal about size of shaft other smaller than that. Since shaft came out with nothing on it I'm going looking for a seal to replace...maybe it'll fall out. Guess I'm on my own...???...onward we go

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Well decided after removing what look like brake drums this was not the way to get to seal. Trying to put it back together and can't get brake spring compressed with claw pliers enough. Go somewhere 2moro and find spring clamp tool to get it small enough to fit without shoes coming off. Mssis asking When? on washing clothes so pressure made me not wait for someone to say. "That's not the approach". Now gotta wait anyway...frustrated 

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Parts are here and one seal about size of shaft other smaller than that. Since shaft came out with nothing on it I'm going looking for a seal to replace...maybe it'll fall out. Took motor out...thought that was wrong direction redirected and removed tub ...nope. Took motor back off after reinstalling and now have shafts out and seals are sitting just inside top so do I yank them out or is there a way to further slide them i'm unable to respond at the moment and will asap the other end...come on guys respond?

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