GE Stove JGB750SEF3SS Door Switch

[AlaskaErik]

Oven interior light does not go out.  Oven will not operate.  "Shut Door" message appears on display.  I suspect the door plunger switch has failed in the "make" position.  How do I access the backside of the switch so I can throw a VOM on it to confirm?  This is obviously a gas stove/oven.  The last picture is what I assume to be the door lock for the cleaning cycle.  That will be the other item to check out if the door plunger switch isn't the problem.  Thanks.

 

[16345Ed]

Had you recently tried to run self clean?

[AlaskaErik]

8 hours ago, 16345Ed said:

Had you recently tried to run self clean?

No.

[16345Ed]

Usually the switch is mounted on back of oven. Have to remove back cover to find it      

There is a long actuator that runs from back to front of oven. 

[Hiroshi]

This version looks to have a microswitch mounted right near the plunger...

[16345Ed]

Pull knobs. Should be a few screws under manifold and it should pull off. Then likely access to switch. 

[mvtvnc]

I had one like this one time had to remove side panel to access the switch.

[AlaskaErik]

5 hours ago, Hiroshi said:

This version looks to have a microswitch mounted right near the plunger...

That looks like the part I found on line.  There are two screws holding it in place.  Now, I just need to access the backside.  So far, the recommendations are from the top, side and back.  Which one is the easiest?  This is a one year old GE Gas range/oven.

[Hiroshi]

from the back was for older versions, they would have a loooong metal bar attached to the plunger and the actual switch would be mounted far away.

I am thinking you should pull the machine out and go from the side panel, like MVTVNC suggested.

Edited December 29, 2016 by Hiroshi

[16345Ed]

Agreed, I was not referring to your particular model. 

MVTVNC's experience should be taken advantage of...

[AlaskaErik]

OK, I have the two back panels off and all the side panel screws out along the rear.  Now there is one remaining screw in the back.  It is a vertical screw at the rear top of the side panel, connecting it to the frame.  It looks like I'll need to lift the manifold after all.  I've got all the screws out from the front and bottom of the burner knob front cover, but that's as far as I got.  The cover won't come off.  What's the secret to lifting the manifold up?  Any way to access the GE service manual?

[mvtvnc]

Did one a while back. If I remember right it was a pain, but there were a few screws underneath the side panel that had to be removed before side panel would come off. I used a couple of 2x4 blocks sideways to tilt the unit while removing screws. Told GE what a pain to remove light switch. But then I seen the switch as pictured above and realized that I had to access from side .

[mvtvnc]

I did have to remove burners and top to get to side panel top screws

[AlaskaErik]

So I finally got the plunger switch out.  One side goes from open to closed...0 ohms.  The other side goes from open to 800 ohms.  Any ideas on what the values should be?  The part number on the switch is 222D8286P001, but that leads me nowhere.

[16345Ed]

Door switch should have continuity when pushed in and OL (no continuity) when not depressed. 

 

I thought you you were testing the lock mechanism all this time...

[mvtvnc]

I agree with 16345Ed. Did you access from the side?
LATCH
COM to MDL
0 VAC motor traveling door closed
120 VAC
door closed
OVEN LIGHT
LIGHT to N
0 VAC light on or door open
120 VAC
door closed
 

[AlaskaErik]

22 hours ago, 16345Ed said:

Door switch should have continuity when pushed in and OL (no continuity) when not depressed. 

 

I thought you you were testing the lock mechanism all this time...

I was checking the door plunger switch first.  It's a double sided switch.  One side 0 ohms in the closed position.  The other side shows 800 ohms in the closed position.  Is this normal?  I wanted to see if the door plunger switch was the problem before moving on to the locking mechanism, as the locking mechanism is for the self cleaning cycle, and we've never even used the self-cleaning cycle yet.

[16345Ed]

When you push the switch does the oven light turn off and back on when you let go? Make sure bulb is good. 

[AlaskaErik]

On ‎1‎/‎1‎/‎2017 at 5:48 AM, 16345Ed said:

When you push the switch does the oven light turn off and back on when you let go? Make sure bulb is good. 

Pushing the door plunger switch has no effect.  Whether the plunger is in or out, the oven light stays on and I get a "Shut Door" message on the control display.  That's why I first homed in on that plunger switch.  I have removed the switch, but I need to know what the values are for each side.  Both sides of the switch show an open when the door is open.  When the door is closed, one side reads 0 ohms and the other side was reading 800 ohms, but now also reads 0 ohms.  Once I know what the values should be, I will know if the switch is the problem or not.

[abaesemann]

There are no values for the switch, they are either open or closed, infinity or nothing on meter,  should read the side of the switch. There should be a common and then an open and then a closed. One meter to common and other on open terminal-should be nothing on meter then push and it should close and meter reads infinity. Then next test keep on common then on closed terminal should read infinity on meter then press button and should read nothing.

[16345Ed]

6 hours ago, AlaskaErik said:

Pushing the door plunger switch has no effect.  Whether the plunger is in or out, the oven light stays on and I get a "Shut Door" message on the control display.  

I'd say you need the door switch based on the above. 

You have been told a few times now the test for the switch is continuity or no continuity. 

 

[Techonamission]

Alaska, do you have the service manual and minimanual for this model?  I was only able to pull up JGBP85W for your model on Appliantology. According to this minimanual your circuit runs from Line to your main board, to a relay, to the plunger motor and door lock switch to neutral.  That is ALL.  A far as I've ever heard (and correct me if Im wrong) a switch is a switch which opens an electrical circuit or closes it, no other way about it. Unless your not isolating your switch and measuring it in parallel with a load like a motor or element you should only have open or closed when doing an isolated continuity test on a switch.........take off the leads to one end of the switch when measuring. 

If your switch is reading 0 ohms and 800ohms I'd say you have a bad switch or you are doing an improper continuity test in a parallel circuit with a load.