GE Profile PSS26PSTA cooling issue

[msst8dawgs]

I have watched a ton of videos and read lots of blog posts and still have not been able to solve a cooling problem with my GE Profile. I have used three different repair guys and had no luck so far. It is a very long story. The beginning was ice melting in the freezer so we just quit using ice. Eventually over time the temperature in both sections would run 10- 15 degrees higher than 0 and 37. The two thermistors that are easily accessible are both registering correct ohms. I have the evaporator cover off the fresh food side and the fan is running. I replaced the main board because the last repair guy told me that was my problem.  Still no good.  The freezer got to about 8 degrees and fridge got to about 48 after 24 hours.  The only thing I can come up with now is maybe the thermistor(s) at the condenser coils are bad.  Please help!

[16345Ed]

I replace all thermistors on these guys. 

 

There  are none on condenser I think you meant evaporators. 

 

Do do all three fans run? 3 evap fans (one in fridge and one in freezer and one in back on bottom is condenser fan.   Let's verify all these are running first. 

Next is the compressor running? (I assume so since you report some cooling)

Edited January 7, 2017 by 16345Ed

[16345Ed]

Also please describe your thermistor replacement process. 

[msst8dawgs]

Yes evaporators....sorry.  After posting this I tested EVERYTHING.  I put every thermistor in a cup of ice water and read ohms at the mother board.  FZ was 14.92, FZ evap was 14.45, FF was 15.35, and FF evap was 15.45.  All three fans were running and reading good.  I pulled the thermostat, which looked good, to check continuity on it.  I submerged it in ice water and checked continuity on it.  It would only register .01 after sitting in the ice water for 5 minutes.  I am assuming thermostat is the problem?

[vee8power]

The thermostat is supposed to be closed until it reaches 140 degrees; it's just a safety device. I recommend, like Ed does, replacing all the sensors whether they're in a cooling compartment or clipped to the evaporator.

Here is the link to the part you need with a video. One exception to the video I see is when you connect the wires together. GE recommends: 1. strip the wires. 2. twist the bare ends together. 3. insert the splice into a bell connector filled with dielectric grease and crimp the bell connector.

Part number: AP3185407

 

[lvasquez11]

Frost pattern of evaporators. Provide pics of each one. 

Fresh food evaporator would be more likely to be the leaker.

Part number: WR85X10069

I would start with both evaporator sensors. But be ready for worst case 

 

[msst8dawgs]

All sensors read fine.  Only concern is that two of them show a reading when first contacted with probe but then show 0. 

 

[msst8dawgs]

17 minutes ago, lvasquez11 said:

Frost pattern of evaporators. Provide pics of each one. 

Fresh food evaporator would be more likely to be the leaker.

Part number: WR85X10069

I would start with both evaporator sensors. But be ready for worst case 

 

If the evaporator was leaking, wouldn't I be low on Freon?

[lvasquez11]

That is correct. A very small leak would take time to effect cooling. 

Frist issue would be with soft ice cream. Some frozen veggies going soft. 

Do you recall frost patterns of evaporators

[msst8dawgs]

I do not.  The issue really never was the freezer.  It was the fridge.  One repair guy added freon.  The next said there was way too much in it and emptied system and re-charged it.  Put new board in and hooked it up.  24 hours later fridge was about 48 and freezer was about 10. 

[lvasquez11]

A over charge of an 1 oz or less will not be noticed unless suction line freezing up. With a low charge unit will never reach 0 n 38.

Do hear unit running longer 

What method was used to access seal system. Bullet valve or valve braced on to process stub. 

Check frost pattern n take pics n post. 

Replace fresh food sensor on evaporator. 

[msst8dawgs]

https://i.imgsafe.org/2735ce378b.jpg fresh food sensor on evap tested good.  I dont have pic of the fresh food coils

 

[lvasquez11]

Like most service guys. Sensors are the first things to replace cheap n easy to get to. 

Takes longer to ohm out then replace. 

Frost pattern looks good on coil. Looks like frost all the way on suction tube/heat exchanger.

 

[16345Ed]

10 hours ago, msst8dawgs said:

https://i.imgsafe.org/2735ce378b.jpg fresh food sensor on evap tested good.  I dont have pic of the fresh food coils

 

Have you tested sensor for voltage? A sensor can test fine for resistance but fail under load. 

Typical voltage drop is between 1 to 4 dc volts. A thermistor voltage drop of 0vdc indicates a shorted thermistor, 5vdc would indicate an open thermistor. Any voltages below 1vdc or above 4vdc could indicate a suspect thermistor, follow up with a direct test of the thermistor.

Edited January 9, 2017 by 16345Ed