Refrig has started making occasional clicking sounds

[Neon john]

My 8 year old Amana AFF2534FEB1 frig/freezer started making clicking sounds and has been running almost constantly lately.  My first thought was that the coils were dirty.  Today I cleaned the coils that were in need of cleaning and discovered that the clicking that sometimes occurs every few minutes sometimes was coming from the switch that plugs into the compressor.  Is it possible that this swich is trying to start the compressor and not having any luck but keeps trying every few minutes till the compressor finally gets the message?  Is it possible that this is what is causing to coil cooling fan to run but not cool the refrigerator because the compressor is not running? If so is the starter switch or the compressor at fault?  Would changing that swich solve the problem?  Suggestions would be appreciated.  Even with all this going on the frig temp is 38 and the freezer temp is 5.

Thanks,  John

 

 

 

 

 

[certified tech group 51]

coil cooling fan, the one near the compressor??  ( The condenser fan motor) or the evaporator fan motor, located in the freezer section???.........the start device could be failing or the compressor could have a failing motor or pump.....The start device  (p/n 67005560) is the part number that is used as a replacement of older  25 (or so ) cubic foot refer start devices...rarely fails.........Having a dirty condenser coil makes the system operate at a higher temp and possibly stressing the start device... For 40 to 50 clam$, it is easier to replace the start device then to find a Meg0meter to check the compressor windings and a clamp-on meter to check the current draw at start-up........ If the new start device  shows signs of failing, it may well be the compressor is also failing.............   .

[Hiroshi]

This sounds like a situation for the old URCO810 hard start device...

[Captain Dunsel]

18 minutes ago, Hiroshi said:

This sounds like a situation for the old URCO810 hard start device...

I would never use this aftermarket device.Put the original part in.Part number: W10613606

[Hiroshi]

If the original device isn't starting it decisively, and it has an intact PTC, the URCO is the only acceptable option.

Edited February 2, 2017 by Hiroshi

[Captain Dunsel]

I can here it now about that aftermarket device from BROTHER DURHAM 

[Hiroshi]

Would Durham suggest tossing the unit without trying the 14 dollar option? I have had one of these on my Maytag FDBM for over 7 years now... My aged AC unit has an ancient looking hard start on it as well... have no clue when it was installed on there, they aren't my go-to relay, but they are not total garbage. Definitely much better than the new electronic relays that look like PTCs and have the high fail chip inside... and those are OEM.

[Neon john]

Thanks all for the advice.  I have a factory start device on order now and if that fails to do the trick then I will give the hard start device a whirl.

John

 

[Neon john]

On 2/2/2017 at 7:49 AM, Captain Dunsel said:

I would never use this aftermarket device.Put the original part in.Part number: W10613606

I installed this part number purchased on amazon.

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M7YH06A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

the switch works fine but the problem was that it requires a different retaining device than the oem part which was p/n w10197428. It took me an hour to come up with a home made replacement retainer.  The retainer is important because the switch does not fit snugly on the compressor and would sooner rather than later come off.

 

thanks,

john

[Hiroshi]

A zip-tie will work well... when you shook the original start device did it sound like it was shattered inside?

[Neon john]

4 minutes ago, Hiroshi said:

A zip-tie will work well... when you shook the original start device did it sound like it was shattered inside?

Something rattles inside....can't tell if it come from the switch or relay.  The device was still working intermittantly when I replaced it.  I wish I had been smart enough to think about using a zip-tie.

 

thanks

john

[Hiroshi]

the thermal overlaod will make a metallic click as you shake it, but a blasted PTC will sound like a castanet when you shake it... a bunch of small fragments rattling around.

[john63]

On 2/2/2017 at 10:14 AM, Hiroshi said:

Would Durham suggest tossing the unit without trying the 14 dollar option? I have had one of these on my Maytag FDBM for over 7 years now... My aged AC unit has an ancient looking hard start on it as well... have no clue when it was installed on there, they aren't my go-to relay, but they are not total garbage. Definitely much better than the new electronic relays that look like PTCs and have the high fail chip inside... and those are OEM.

I have a 1997 Kenmore/Whirlpool side by side for shop/office use.

Property owner asked us to install new refrigerator...because he thought the compressor failed in 1999 and did not want to have a compressor replacement done by Sears.

Put a Supco 3 n 1 on it...still functions perfectly...17 years.