Ice maker not making ice

[jmc916]

Hello,

I have a KitchenAid side-by-side, model KSRP25FNSS00. It has stopped making ice, but the water dispenser is still functional.

Here's what I've tried and found out so far:

- The optics appear to be working properly. It's showing the 2 blinks followed by the pause and also shows a solid red when I hold down the optic flap.

 - I tested the Water Inlet Valve (part # 2188746) with a multimeter. I got a 338-ohms reading from the water side and a 232-ohms on the ice side. I'm not sure if these values are within an acceptable range?

- I attempted to jump the T and H spots by hooking up a jumper wire, unplugging the fridge, then plugging it back in with the jumper still attached. This did cause the white gear (not sure exactly what it's called) to spin. However, no water came out of the water valve.

- I also attempted to jump the L and V spots using the same steps mentioned above. This caused nothing to happen.

- I checked the water spout that fills up the ice tray and it doesn't appear to be frozen shut.

 

I'm leaning toward a bad Water Inlet Valve, but I wanted another opinion. Hopefully I've provided enough information, if not please let me know and I'll provide more.

Thanks in advance!

[Aapltech]

Cycle the optics relay by jumping "t and h".. once module begins to cycle remove jumper. Once removed insert Meter leads into "l and v". At approximately 12 o'clock position cam will close water valve switch. Watch for 120 vac on meter during the fill portion of the cycle. If 120 vac present and no water entering that will rule  out module/optics as a cause of the no fill. You can do the same by removing connections at valve, insert leads, cycle icemaker and watch for 120 vac. Again, if 120 vac present you have failed solenoid or incoming water problem. Ensure inlet tube is not frozen and lines clear between valve and icemaker. 

[rbmappltech]

If you leave the T & H shorted by a jumper wire, the water valve well not work. After the white thing a ming jiggy gear moves for about 10 seconds remove the jumper.  Before you do that set your your DVM to measured about 120 vac on the electrical connector to the water valve. If it reads 120 vac before the cycle is done then you have a bad water valve. If you don't see the 120 vac then you have a bad ice maker. Also you have to  wait for a couple of minutes before the water valve voltage is turned on by the ice maker. You can remove the connector from the water valve to get a good connection with your DVM. At this point all you are doing is looking for voltage. 

Good trouble shooting

[16345Ed]

First check should be what is the temp in freezer? Is it cold enough for ice production?