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    • 21 December 2024 03:00 PM Until 04:00 PM
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      All Appliantology tech members are invited to join in the conversation for all things Appliantological: bidness, customers, tools, troubleshooting, flavorite brewski, whatever. Webcams and microphones are open and live!
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Posted

So I've an older free standing range.  ID plate has KCA4CXW, I've searched the internet and didn't find a thing.  Even Sears can't find anything on it.  Does anyone have a schematic and parts list or know where I can get one?

 

Thanks...

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Posted

Needed to update.  Front right burner is not shutting off, it doesn't get to high temp more like low temp.  Checked with Voltmeter, across both contacts for burner is 47 VAC when off, 127 VAC from one terminal to ground and 27VAC from the other terminal to ground.  I've not done anything else except testing with voltmeter.

Posted

I'm assuming this is an electric range. 

Either your element is bad or the infinite switch. Swap the burner with another if you have another the same size. If it still doesn't work it's likely your switch. 

 

I dont find anything on that partial number. 

Posted

I opened up the back of the unit to see if I could find a part number on the infinity switch.  The model comes from early 1960 as all switches have a stamp for March and April 1960.  Anyway I looked up a Youtube video on how the burners work.  should be 240 across the terminals, guess what no 220 VAC so I figured the switch was bad.  Guess what our "appliance repairman" pulled a connector off of the switch.  Reconnected it (after disconnecting the power) put it all back together powered the range back up and works like a champ.

 

Last time I'll call that "expert", called him today and read him the riot act.  Hrummph.......

Posted

Nice find, good job. 

What was the tech there for?

Posted

The oven door light had failed (shorted out).  I had him come in because I couldn't find the switch for it.  This was the third time he came as every one he put in was plastic and after a few weeks it would fail again.  He had to open up the back to replace some older wiring.  The switch has failed again but this time I'm going to fix it permanently.  I went out yesterday and got a push button switch (on/off spst) rated 120 VAC and a cap for the hole where the switch was for the oven door.  I'm going to mount it on the control panel.  The oven light won't come on when you open the oven door but a sturdy push button on the upper panel to turn it on and off and not having to worry about inferior parts breaking every two weeks will be a god send.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

OK New request, The Oven/Broiler went out over the weekend.  Obvious first.  Yep 220 to the stove.  Getting 22o to the oven switch and when turned on the oven goes up to about 250 degrees.  Now Broiler & Oven are not working and I was thinking the switch might be the problem.   However the switch is wired to a mechanical clock/'Timer.  Any one have a schematic of this beast?  I looked the unit over (the switch) and the thermal sensor goes directly into the switch and there is an adjustment to set the temp.  I'm not sure if there is a way to test the thermal sensor and if it's all part of the switch, in which case a part list would help.  There's a few places on the net where you can order older parts.

Any input or help would be appreciated. 

 

Ed

Posted

On those mechanical timers, the first thing to do is be sure it is set to work- by that I mean, if a timed bake is chosen, but the clock has stopped and isn't within those chosen time points, the machine will not work correctly, so it is a good idea to get all the dials to "OFF" or a matching time so the timer doesn't interfere with a BAKE or BROIL. 

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