Maytag PAV2300AWW Brake, Stator & Snubber

[N9ZN-Extra]

My machine, purchased used, has been freely spinning the basket while agitating. When not running the basket easily spins and after a spin cycle the basket takes some time to stop rotating. I ordered parts to repair the brake rotor, brake stator and snubber ring and took the machine apart.

Inside I found an enormous amount of grease on the old brake rotor and Stator (both of which looked new). I removed those parts and tossed them out. I noted the parts I tossed all looked to be new making me wonder if something else may have been wrong with the machine besides the brake when I got it. Could the prior owner have tried to repair the brakes only to find it did not solve his problem and greased the brakes to get the machine to work?

One thing I noticed is when I put the new brake rotor on the spindle it does not slide easily up and down the spindle it attaches to. There is some grease on the spindle (gear) that contacts the spines on the inner part of the brake rotor shaft, should it be there? How far down the spindle should the brake rotor go, only to the spring contact? If the shaft needs to be lubricated how much should I apply and what type, lithium grease?

Presently the brake rotor does NOT slide easily up and down the shaft it attaches to. Is this a problem? I am at a complete loss as to how the brake gets applied during wash and released during spin cycles, it looks like something has to move the brake away from the brake stator but how does this work? Looking at the assembly it seems like the brake will always be tight against the brake stator and if this is true the basket will not spin after my repairs. Could this be why the prior owner greased what appears to be a new brake rotor and stator? Unfortunately I have no way to contact the prior machine owner to ask questions.

I cleaned the cabinet metal area where snubber makes contact with the cabinet but like the area the brake stator screws into there seems to be some baked on grease and or snubber plastic on the painted metal surface including the bottom of the cabinet where tub rest. These are the areas the snubber ring makes contact with top and bottom. These areas are not coming clean with 91% Isopropyl alcohol, Is it imperative that all areas the Snubber contacts be completely smooth and how do I get rid of the hardened dirty areas described above that are not cleaning with 91% Alcohol? Should I only clean what will come off with 91% alcohol and dust the cabinet bottom with corn starch?

I hope my writing clearly describes my issues. If not please tell me what you do not understand and I will gladly try to explain it again.

 

 

 

[N9ZN-Extra]

Trying to figure out how the brake disengages leaves me wondering if the inner shaft attached to the pully drop down against the brake stator bottom forcing the brake rotor upward enough to release the brake? Then I wonder if this is true what keep the shaft from drilling a hole in the brake stator?

I do not think I understand the braking mechanism for this machine which normally would not be important except for wondering why the brake rotor and stator had grease applied keeping the old brake from working.  I hope I have not inherited a machine with transmission problemns of some kind. If I have then the problem must be the transmission will not release the brake but I can not be sure until I put everything back together.

If I have a transmission brake release problem this machine is garbage and I have lost a lot of money and time trying to repair the brake system. If only I understood how the brake works on this machine it might ease some pain.

In the mean while all the other questions above still need to be addressed.

[moish]

Search "Checking and Adjusting the Brake in a Maytag MAV or PAV Top..."

The article is from fixitnow.com.

It talks about how the braking system works.

I hope this helps. 

From Moisch

 

[N9ZN-Extra]

41 minutes ago, moish said:

Search "Checking and Adjusting the Brake in a Maytag MAV or PAV Top..."

The article is from fixitnow.com.

It talks about how the braking system works.

I hope this helps. 

From Moisch

 

Did that and it took me to this post, no other post were displayed.

[N9ZN-Extra]

OK I found the topic but my thrust bearing is completely different than what I found everywhere (appliance repair videos), there is no arrow or adjustment reference marks. I put the machine back the way it was, both space washers were used as before and when I turn the pulley to release the brake it looks like the brake is not being driven back instead there seems to be about a 3/16 gap in the brake release area. When I turn the pulley to release the brake only the shaft go down almost to the brake nothing makes contact.

I hate to think this but it looks like I wasted $100.00 + buying parts and time trying to repair this machine. The engineering is HORRID, maybe I need to dump this garbage by Maytag and buy a used Whirlpool Direct Drive.

Maybe tomorrow I will be less frustrated and try something else like washers (as spacers) if I can find the right size and they do not sell for $50.00 each.

[N9ZN-Extra]

This is where I am and I NEED HELP.

Currently there is about 3/16 of an inch play between the bottom of the pulley and the thrust bearing when the brake is NOT engaged.  When I move the pulley to engage the brake that space diminishes and the bottom pf the pulley makes contact with the thrust bearing but will not release the brake, I do not think the trust bearing is being pushed down far enough to relieve relieve the contact with the brake rotor and the brake stater.

My question... Does anyone believe ordering a new Thrust bearing kit will fix this problem and are there any other reasons the thrust bearing cam needs to drive the pulley further down to release the brake? (I am concerned of a transmission problem may be causing the play between the pulley and the thrust bearing?

Please answer this ASAP. I am trying to decide if ordering yet another part (thrust bearing repair kit) will resolve my problems.

[Budget Appliance Repair]

Try to pull the main transmission pulley straight down and out of the transmission while it is attached to the transmission shaft.

The shaft may have came loose from the input gear inside the transmission so instead of the thrust bearing being pushed up against the brake to release the brake it instead just pulls the shaft out of the transmission housing.

That or you have installed the pulley/cam/thrust bearings wrong or with some part missing.

All the grease/oil in the brake assembly may be from a leaking lower transmission input shaft seal which can be removed and replaced with a special expensive tool, (don't know if the tool is still available or not).  Usually the lower input shaft seal leaking is lower then the brake assembly and won't oil the brake but only the snubber area and under the machine, belts, etc.

Edited February 27, 2017 by Budget Appliance Repair

[N9ZN-Extra]

Willie, I have about 1/32 ~ 1/16 inch of play in the transmission shaft, the shaft will not pull free of the transmission. There is light weight or diluted oil on the shaft but the old snubber had signs of dark brown (nearly black) grease smears, dried out smears as if transferred from handling. Globs of grease had been applied (to make brake move) to the pad on the brake rotor and the adjacent area of the brake stator, the interior areas of these components remained dry, grease and oil free. I could not find grease on the outside of the brake stator, the pulley was dry and dirty from use with very tiny amount of oil on the gears. The part number on the pulley is 35-6149, and the components of the Thrust Bearing do not visually match the current thrust bearing sold today, it appears to be an older assembly.

With the old parts in place the machine works properly except for the basket being pushed around by the force of agitation. I can hold the basket more or less in place and watch the agitation work as it should. Spin ejects enough water from clothing to permit rapid drying. The only problem I can see is the brake is not separating from the brake stator.

I do not know enough to tell you why there is 3/16 of play between the shaft of the pulley where it contacts the thrust bearing. It appears that if additional washers were used as spacers directly on top of the Thrust Bearing force would then drive the brake free of the stator. Maybe something is missing or internal wear where the shaft is held in place has allowed this increase in distance between pulley shaft and thrust bearing. I have no way to know if all the thrust bearing parts are there for proper operation, all I have found are a few unreliable photos on ebay to reference to.

My concern is if this is due to wear ordering a new thrust bearing assembly will not allow release of the brake. I would think a loose shaft should be a common problem if this is what is going on. Trying to pull the shaft out of the transmission can not be accomplished, it is solidly retained with the transmission assembly. I tried to measure the free play in the shaft  alone and it is not much more than 1/32 of an inch, without proper measurement tools the shaft may be moving as much as 1/16 inch but visually it seems to be less.

WOULD YOU ORDER A THRUST BEARING KIT OR DO SOMETHING ELSE?

[Hiroshi]

I had a commercial business that used theirs so much (washing towels at a salon), I had to shave the top neck of the drive pulley down a quarter of an inch to allow the brake to engage fully... I simply ground it on the sidewalk in back of their building and it has been working fine for years...

[N9ZN-Extra]

2 hours ago, Hiroshi said:

I had a commercial business that used theirs so much (washing towels at a salon), I had to shave the top neck of the drive pulley down a quarter of an inch to allow the brake to engage fully... I simply ground it on the sidewalk in back of their building and it has been working fine for years...

Good point you had to shorten drive pulley neck to get the brake to engage although I am missing what made things longer in that washing machine with a lot of use. This is the exact opposite of what my problem is, the drive pulley neck is not long enough. What I seem to need are about 3 or 4 spacers (3/16 inch of washers) to set on top of the thrust drive bearing. Then the cam should engage the brake and drive it enough to release the brake. I guess I will try ordering the other Thrust bearing, after I see if I can locate some used washers or find some at a hardware store. If worse comes to worse I will use the old thrust bearing with the new thrust bearing. Two bearings combined should drive the brake well free of the stator. I hope I can find some that are being thrown out from another washing machine.

 

I WILL PAY THE POSTAGE IS YOU HAVE SOME ! ! ! ! <------ (SOMEONE SHOULD HAVE SOME OLD THRUST BEARING WASHERS DESTINED FOR THE TRASH.)

[N9ZN-Extra]

I located the repair manual for my machine and this greatly aids and answers most of my questions. The only questions left unanswered center around problems others have seen with the PAV2300AWW washer. Specifically issues with the brakes and thrust bearings.

The play I noticed in the washer is most likely due to the first spacer next to the brake drive missing from the assembly on my machine. My guess the prior owner forgot to replace it or lost it. This is what I believe caused him to grease the brake lining and stator area contacting the lining.

The only thing I wish I knew is what amounts of movement should be expected to release the brake. From seeing the materials I have it appears the movement is minimal, maybe 1/16 inch or less. I have also noticed in the manual there is some slight amount of play expected in the transmission shaft.

Knowing these things I feel much better about ordering the new encapsulated design Thrust Bearing Assembly and installing it.

In the mean while if someone has their old Thrust Bearing Assembly parts and are planning on tossing them out I would love to take them off your hands. I cannot help but wonder if the present thrust bearing in the machine is good and will work if the spacer that goes next to the brake rotor shaft is installed? If you have these old parts contact me.

[N9ZN-Extra]

I ordered the new Thrust Bearing kit and it fixed the problem.

During the repair I was unable to put the new retainer clip in place over the thinner washer sitting next to the pulley. I remembered seeing another person having the same problem and that made me realize why the retainer clip would not go on the shaft. It was because I had replaced the brakes and the basket was sitting on the floor and that the shaft play allowed the shaft to move slightly toward the floor reducing the clearance needed for the retaining clip to install.

NORMALLY Thrust Bearing replacement directions are written without removing the basket and inverting it. This repair usually would not allow shaft play to let the shaft slip back toward the drum since it is done with the machine tipped backward or lying down on the machine back. The instructions were not written to account for the basket being inverted on a floor.

I used an adjustable plier to pull the shaft tip upward about 1/32 inch to relieve the play and the clip slipped right in place.

If anyone replaces a Thrust Bearing while the machine tub is inverted on the floor this may happen and the reason is not obvious, EVEN MAYTAG DID NOT REALIZE WHAT HAD HAPPENED WITH ANOTHER PARTY WHO ATTEMPTED THE SAME REPAIR. REMEMBER TO MAKE SURE ALL EXTRA SHAFT PLAY IS ELIMINATED BY PULLING  THE SHAFT TIP OUTWARD PRIOR TO INSTALLING THE RETAINER CLIP OVER THE WASHER NEXT TO THE PULLEY.

 

My problem is solved, thank you for your help!