Kitchenaid Stove KGRT607HBT6 - F7E0 Error

[PHugger]

My Kitchenaid Stove has been acting up lately. When it heats up to around 400+ (when baking - not cleaning) it throws an F7E0 error (Invalid latch switch reading). I have checked the switch on the door latch assembly and it is working correctly. My next step is to check the connections on the Control Board (relay board?). I've searched around and found a few diagrams that seem to indicate that it is located beneath the Control Panel Display Board. I removed the Control Panel tonight and there is no Control Board in there. I'd really appreciate some help locating this Control Board in the stove. Is it accessible through the back?

Even if it's not a loose connection, I'll still need to find it to replace it.

I know it's No Longer Available new, but I've seen some re-manufactured  units for sale.
I believe this is the correct Part -

Kitchenaid / Whirlpool Range Control Board 9754378
This part replaces the following:
9754378, 9754378R,
This control board can be found in the following list of Kitchenaid / Whirlpool Range Control Board model:
KGRT607HBT6
...

Image of Control Board

 

 

Best regards,

PCH

[abaesemann]

It is definitely mounted under control panel, could look as it is part of the display board or could be sitting a little further back sitting on top of oven cavity.

[PHugger]

Thanks! I take it apart again tonight and try to dig further.

 

PCH

[16345Ed]

9 hours ago, PHugger said:

My Kitchenaid Stove has been acting up lately. When it heats up to around 400+ (when baking - not cleaning) it throws an F7E0 error 

Using the self clean may have fried your board, FYI. 

[PHugger]

It has failed infrequently for a few years - lately it fails almost all the time. I don't remember ever running the clean cycle (I'd have to check with SWMBO to be sure) certainly not for years. I'm willing to replace it, but I have to find it first. It was definitely NOT visible when I removed the Control Panel Display board. Beneath the display there is nothing except the gas valves. There is a wire bundle from the control  panel that exits this area to beneath the cooktop. I have no idea how to get in there. I'll work on it tonight. It doesn't seem logical to put an electronic board right over the broiler and beneath the stove top. Wouldn't it get hot there?

 

 

PCH

[abaesemann]

Yes that is where they put them, usually there is a cooling fan in the area to get rid of the heat, I have not looked at you wiring to see if there is one. It may be behind the gas manifold and the top of the range may have to come up to access.

[Hiroshi]

The main control board IS the control panel in a sense... it is the circuit board with the digital display mounted on it and the power relay board is mounted directly beneath that in layered fashion... directly underneath the touchpad.

Service Matters shows your model as a slide-in with the user interface along the front of the machine.

 

Edited March 1, 2017 by Hiroshi

[PHugger]

OK - I finally got SWMBO to agree to Not use the stove for a day and I went at it again. First I took off the control Panel (picture below). I did mention that the power/relay board was nowhere to be seen. Then I started to try to get under the cook top as was suggested. I only had to lift it a bit to see that the cable bundle from the Display Panel went down the side towards the right rear corner. I thought I would try to get into the back and a dozen screw later I noticed the side panel was loose and down next to the Warming Drawer I could see the Relay Board. The side panel would not come off until I figured out that there was one screw on the inside of the warming compartment - Easy Peezy. I removed and re-inserted all of the connections. We are testing it now. If it magically decides to work - great. If not, I can order a re-manufactured board this week. It should only take about 30 minutes to replace. Thanks for all of your help and suggestions. I'll post my final outcome and hopefully this will help some other poor soul like myself. I really wish I could order this part from you as I have in the past. This forum has saved me loads of time and money. With your help I have repaired my Washer (several times), Dryer (several times), Refrigerator, and Stove (3 or 4 times).

I just heard from the kitchen - the oven reached 450 degrees and threw the error again - ordering new board now.

 

 

Best regards,
PCH

[abaesemann]

Sorry it was not where all the pictures said it was and I remember that range now and most repairs were to replace relay board.

[PHugger]

This stove has been pretty reliable. That said, I have replaced the igniter once and the oven temp probe twice. I can add the relay board to my list. We are planning a big remodel so I'd really like it to last for just a couple of more years.

PCH

 

[PHugger]

I received the replacement Relay/Power Board yesterday and installed it. There was a "End of Service" test procedure included. This involved pressing various controls. I followed it carefully, but it didn't seem to actually go into any test mode. It did however look like a normal restart. I heated up the oven to 450 and it threw the same error. Now I'm a bit lost. I'll take another look at the Door Latch Assembly - other than that, I'm not sure where to look next. Could the re-manufactured board I purchased also be bad? It has a 6 month warranty. Is there anything else that could cause this error?

 

Best regards,
PCH

[abaesemann]

Looking at your photos there is a burned spot on the display board between the two blue resistors and burned spot between two brown resistors,that may have something to do with it. I had similar range recently, different problem and ended up replacing both boards, not saying that is your problem but it can happen.

Edited March 9, 2017 by abaesemann
add

[abaesemann]

16 minutes ago, PHugger said:

There was a "End of Service" test procedure included. This involved pressing various controls. I followed it carefully, but it didn't seem to actually go into any test mode.

This does turn relays on and off, does test components when I ran the one I had recently done. Replacement could be bad.

[Hiroshi]

The control board has to be mated to the relay board- the end of service test sequence has to be performed within one minute of powering up the machine. It often has to be attempted several times before it will "take."

If you look at the wiring diagram, you will see that the main control/display board is not what receives the signals from the latch circuit, but the power relay board... remove the power relay board from its mounts and take a good look at the solder joints behind the wire header connectors, this generation of appliance controls are absolutely plagued with fractured solder and these are often responsible for intermittent errors and errors that crop up after the unit gets hot...

Look at the joints in the daylight with a magnifying glass and you may find some tiny cracks that look like a fine hair wrapped around the solder

[Hiroshi]

Ok, so you already replaced the relay board?

The next thing to do is to choose a self-clean cycle and observe whether the motor advances to the lock position, as it advances it should signal the board by way of the position microswitches...

Don't let the unit actually do the self-clean (as this is extremely abusive to the machine), but if the lock causes a different error code or the lock latch doesn't lock the door- it will give a good indication of where the problem is emanating from...