replacing Element on Glass top ( Switch Epic sensor?)

[SAL]

The dual element on my maytag glass top burnt out.  I have the replacement part but it says in the instructions that I need to replace the epic sensor if it's different.  The sensor looks slightly different but I don't see how the parts would swap from the old one to the new one as the sensor when it goes into the limiter seems quite different.

any insight would be great 

model # MER5765RCB

Thanks

Scott

[Hiroshi]

Which element are you replacing...?

1. Right Front: 74008919
2. Left front: 74009034
3. Left or Right Rear: 74008568

The left front element comes with an instruction sheet...

 

[SAL]

Thanks for the reply.  I am replacing the front right.  It is the dual element.  The part that is confusing me is first of all some of the connections have changed and they have eliminated one wire by connecting the wire directly to the limiter.  I have just matched up the 1a to 1a regardless of the location.  correct?  The other  part is in the instruction sheet which you included in the picture.  It says to replace the epic sensor if different with the sensor from the old element.  It is different when I take off the limiter cover but it doesn't seem like it would swap over like they recommend in the instruction sheet.  Thanks for the help.

Quote

 

Scott

[Hiroshi]

The important thing is to notice which of the terminals supply the embedded element(s), there are two that go to the outer ring and they are the two that are vertical/next to the the jumpered terminal, and there is one larger terminal opposite of the jumper... the connectors on the wires should match them in size.

The two smaller terminals will be for the less powerful circuit that the limiter uses... should be a black and a yellow wire according to the wiring diagram on Service Matters...

The configuration might be different, but there should still be five wires and five spots to connect them.

[Budget Appliance Repair]

The "EPIC" sensor is not the limiter/hot surface switch, it is another sensor that is used on some of these elements but it's not real common.

Just follow the instruction and make sure you attach the wires to the terminals that are marked the same as the original element, (they moved them around a little from the original elements - if you attach the wire that came from 1a to 1a and so forth you will be fine - don't go by positions on the switch go by the markings).

 

[Hiroshi]

Epic sensor sure sounds important though... It lets you know if what you are cooking is good enough.

[SAL]

I installed the element and it heats up and works.  I left it on for half an hour and it never kicked off.  You know how the element cycles on and off as it calls for heat.  This seems weird to me as when I tried it with the other three elements they all cycled on and off within 5 or 10 mins.  Thoughts?

Thanks

 

Scott

[Budget Appliance Repair]

Cycling contacts in control switch possibly welded together.

If you had it at the lowest setting and it stays on and gets bright red and doesn't cycle within 5 to 10 seconds most likely bad control switch.

If you had it set on the HI setting it should stay on solid until the limit switch on the element opens which should be in 5 to 10 minutes without a pan/load on element, (I've never let one go that long so don't know for sure).

Did the hot surface light turn on for that element?

[Hiroshi]

Yeah, be careful about leaving it on that long without a pan of water on it- that is how cooktops get fractured!

[Ck C]

Hi, 

Is everything working fine? I have a similar issue with the epic sensor, not sure if I need to replace with the old one. 

Not sure how to replace with the old epic sensor, any help will be appreciated. 

Thanks,

Allen

[Steve Y.]

Bumping this old thread for some input.  I'm currently chasing an issue on my Jenn-Air JEC0530ADS13 electric cooktop where the front-right element (the dual-powered 'Custom Control' one) will turn on and start to heat up but after about 15 second the element automatically shuts itself off;  meanwhile the controls remain illuminated and the cooling fan continues to run.  I replaced the element and wired the new one the same as the old (matching wires to terminal numbers as per the instructions), and also transferred the original 'Epic Sensor' from the old element to the new one, as per the instructions.  The cooktop behaves the same way with the new element in place.  I am wondering whether this is an issue with the original 'Epic Sensor' which is why the behavior is consistent, or if there is a problem upstream at the control board?