LG Tromm WM2077CW Problems

[Coupe]

We recently purchased a used lg tromm wm2077cw and within 2 weeks of owning it things started to go wrong.

1 - First we noticed that very little water was entering the machine. It was not throwing any error codes at the time so we thought that maybe it was meant to be that way.

2 - The machine started throwing an IE code. I did a little digging and decided to check the water inlet valves.

3 - Once I opened the machine I saw that the cold water inlet valve had some rust on it and was showing signs of failure. I ordered a new cold water inlet and replaced the old unit.

4 - After I installed the new inlet valve we came upon a new problem. The machine was constantly filling and would display the FE error code. 

5 - Thinking maybe the new inlet valve was bad we ordered another genuine lg valve but ran into the exact same issue. It was still displaying the FE code and over-filling. Ive noticed that it is the center valve that doesnt seem to turn off.

6 - We then replaced the Pressure switch but ran into the same problem. It seemed to make no difference. 

 

At this point I am running out of ideas. We have not replaced the hot water inlet valve but It doesnt seem to be the problem. It is the cold water that stays on and over fills the machine. Im thinking it could possibly be the board but the idea of sinking even more money into this is getting old. Any suggestions? 

 

[john63]

Pull the black tube from the Water Level Sensor...blow air into the tube.

Do a Speed Wash test load without laundry and observe performance (select WARM/COLD water setting).

The washer will tumble first...stagger fill water...tumble some more...then steady fill water...water should stop filling way below the door opening.

If not...and an "FE" error has been triggered...cancel cycle by turning off washer...turn washer on...select SPIN SPEED to "No Drain"...press "Start" button.

Let us know what you found.

[Coupe]

4 hours ago, john63 said:

Pull the black tube from the Water Level Sensor...blow air into the tube.

Do a Speed Wash test load without laundry and observe performance (select WARM/COLD water setting).

The washer will tumble first...stagger fill water...tumble some more...then steady fill water...water should stop filling way below the door opening.

If not...and an "FE" error has been triggered...cancel cycle by turning off washer...turn washer on...select SPIN SPEED to "No Drain"...press "Start" button.

Let us know what you found.

I actually tried all of that prior to posting here. The line is clear, doesnt matter if its a cold, hot, tap etc cycle. Water will always fill above the door no matter the cycle. When we first replaced the inlet valve and turned the pressure switch way down we were able to do a quick cycle but at the end of the rinse cycle there would still be 2-3 inches of water in the machine due to over filling. But now we cant even do quick cycles without throwing the FE code. 

[john63]

Have you tried the Test Mode?

Press and hold the Soil Level and Spin Speed buttons.

Press the Power button and release all 3 buttons.

Wait for the door to lock (single click sound).

Press the Start button 4 times at one second intervals.

Pull the dispenser drawer open about four inches.

Cold water should be filling into the PreWash compartment on the right side.

Press the Start button again.

Cold water should be entering the Main Wash compartment on the left side...and the water valve for the PreWash...should be *off*.

Press the Start button again.

Main Wash cold fill should stop...and hot water should now be filling into the Main Wash compartment.

Turn off washer.

The hot water fill should stop.

No water should be entering the dispenser drawer at all.

If the Test Mode shows all is normal...try replacing the black tube that connects at the bottom of the tub...to the Water Level Sensor (Possible pin hole).

[Coupe]

13 hours ago, john63 said:

Have you tried the Test Mode?

Press and hold the Soil Level and Spin Speed buttons.

Press the Power button and release all 3 buttons.

Wait for the door to lock (single click sound).

Press the Start button 4 times at one second intervals.

Pull the dispenser drawer open about four inches.

Cold water should be filling into the PreWash compartment on the right side. It is but it is also filling the main

Press the Start button again.

Cold water should be entering the Main Wash compartment on the left side...and the water valve for the PreWash...should be *off*. Pre wash looks to be off, main continues to fill.

Press the Start button again.

Main Wash cold fill should stop...and hot water should now be filling into the Main Wash compartment. Main wash cold continues 

Turn off washer.

The hot water fill should stop. Cold water continues to come in and I have to manually stop the water supply by pulling the connection to the center water inlet on the cold valve.

No water should be entering the dispenser drawer at all.

If the Test Mode shows all is normal...try replacing the black tube that connects at the bottom of the tub...to the Water Level Sensor (Possible pin hole).

Ok so I just did this and the results are in bold. Basically Cold water is always coming into the main wash no matter what the setting.

[john63]

Main Board.

 

[Coupe]

11 minutes ago, john63 said:

Main Board.

 

Do you still have any available for sale?

[john63]

I will check....it'll be a few hours though.

[Coupe]

10 minutes ago, john63 said:

I will check....it'll be a few hours though.

Thank you, would be greatly appreciated. Otherwise im going to have to go to ebay.

[john63]

Out of stock.

Looks like EBay is the way to go.

[Coupe]

Thank you for looking. Im just happy that I finally have an idea what I need to fix. 

[Coupe]

So I received the new board today but im thinking maybe I was sent the wrong part. It looks very similar but there are a few small differences and a couple of the connections are off by an inch or so when compared to the original board. Are there variances in boards or should my replacement be identical to the board I have now? I can supply pictures if needed. 

The board I received is labeled as 6871ER1003F.

[Coupe]

The more I look at it the more I think I was sold and incorrectly labeled board. The heat sink is much larger on the board I was sold as well. I also cant find the model number anywhere on it where as my model number is in red right in the top/center of the board. 

[Scottthewolf]

Model number should be on a sticker above or below the door seal on the front panel or on the front panel itself. If not, a sticker should be on the left or right side panels of the washer.  If it is missing, you got sold a machine that was meant to be scrapped out by the manufacturer.

[Coupe]

Just now, Scottthewolf said:

Model number should be on a sticker above or below the door seal on the front panel or on the front panel itself. If not, a sticker should be on the left or right side panels of the washer.  If it is missing, you got sold a machine that was meant to be scrapped out by the manufacturer.

Im not sure you understand what im saying.

I bought a replacement board that was labeled as a 6871ER1003F but what I received looks different than my 6871ER1003F that was in my machine. I was sure if there were different variations of the board. I can not seem to find the actual board number on this replacement unlike mine which has the board part number right in the upper center of the board. 

[Scottthewolf]

OK, sorry.  I overthought what I just typed.  Ignore what I just said.

[Coupe]

Excuse the typos. I meant to say that I wasnt sure if there were variants in the 6871ER1003F boards. I also noticed that my board was produced in 2005 where this replacement board was mfg in 2003. 

[Scottthewolf]

Part number: 6871ER1003F    Part is NO LONGER AVAILABLE.   So, looks like you might have been sold an incorrect board.

[john63]

12 minutes ago, Coupe said:

I meant to say that I wasnt sure if there were variants in the 6871ER1003F boards. I also noticed that my board was produced in 2005 where this replacement board was mfg in 2003. 

Yes...more than one Main Board exists for the WM2077CW washer.

Each has a *different* part number.

Sometimes...a different letter at the end...other times...an entirely non-similar part number.

The part number on the original Main Board is the correct number...and should be replaced with the same part number.

[Coupe]

It was purchased on ebay. At first glance it looked like the correct board but once I had them both side by side its clearly different. My original board is on the left, replacement on the right. 

[Scottthewolf]

If only it was still available.

[john63]

1 minute ago, Coupe said:

It was purchased on ebay. At first glance it looked like the correct board but once I had them both side by side its clearly different. My original board is on the left, replacement on the right. 

Should work:)

[Coupe]

Really? I didnt want to try it just in case it could damage anything else. The main differences that I noticed are that...

1 - it is missing a chip towards the top that the original board has. (to the left of the red label below the white connection top center)

2 - In the center of the original board there are 3 connections in line next to eachother (white blue white). The new board has the first white connection offset.

3 - The heatsink? is larger on the replacement board.

4 - Red connection in the center far right has a different placement than the original board. 

 

As long as you dont think it will be an issue and do not believe that it will damage anything I will hook it up and see if works. 

[Scottthewolf]

Nope, it should work, as long as all the connections fit tightly and you have no wires that are not connected.

[Coupe]

18 minutes ago, Scottthewolf said:

Nope, it should work, as long as all the connections fit tightly and you have no wires that are not connected.

Awesome - this forum is amazing