GE PFCS1NFYASS - Compressor test doesn't match Samurai's Youtube specs (but it is consistent across all 3)

[Mr TKH]

Folks:

Came back from vacation (6 days out) to find fridge and freezer reading on the display as 66 degrees. Open to find all room temp.  Found this website by searchin on how to test for failures. Watched Samurai's video (below). GREAT help; will purchase via his links due to his immediate help.

 I believe I have a controler board issue as R15 showing less than 1 volt; HOWEVER, and the reason for this post, is when I decided to test the compressor coils, I don't get 6.5 ohms of resistance. I get 1.5 across each. So if I test all 3 I get a consistent 1.5 not 6.5. Is there something wrong with my compressor?  I have to admit, my ohm meter isn't very accurate.  I have it set for 200 on teh ohm scale and then get 1.5 across any of the 3 in combination of two. I'm about to order a new controller board because of the R15 failure to send a voltage greater than .1 volt to teh inverter. Please keep in mind this is an inverter compressor fridge, similar to his video below. 

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[Mr TKH]

(Sorry, J15 connector, not R15)

 

[Mr TKH]

Lastly, I just measured at J15 AGAIN and got .14 volts. Took the same meter with same settings to a AA battery and got 1.34 volts. So I know I'm getting .14 or less than 1 volt. So I'm sure my controller isn't working properly. However, could my compressor also be an issue?  

By the way, I'm currently on my 2nd inverter as the original OEM inverter failed about 3 years ago.

[vee8power]

I use a fieldpiece meter and I get 5 volts AC from those boards sometimes(maybe my meter reads it as a rectified ac wave, I dunno). Try the AC setting on your meter.

The resistance between the pins on the compressor is much too low; at 1.5, it would be drawing a lot of power. Is there any continuity between any of the pins and a good ground on the compressor?

[Mr TKH]

@vee8power:

I just tested the continuity between any of the pins and the actual ground on the compressor (which I assume is the flat metal pin to the left of the 3 pins) and I have no continuity. I used a 200 ohm setting on the multi meter and got "1", in other words, none of the 3 pins wires or windings are crossing over to the ground.

I also retested the resistance between each pin and I got 2.9 or 3 ohms each time I test them and not the 1.5. I test them several times and consistently got 3 with any configuration. So I'm leanign to believe my compressor is ok.

I went back to the j15 connector and tried AC (all settings) on my multi meter and got nothing. Only at the slightest setting could I get a very faint reading. When I went back to DC, I once again got a very low .14 volt.  So I'm guess at this point my controller board needs to be replaced.  My thought now is to simply order an new controller board and inverter assembly and try one at a time and return the one I don't need. 

 

Anything else I should try?  I greatly appreciate any help!

 

TKH

[Mr TKH]

By the way, I should add that the compressor fan is NOT running. It was when we originally came home to find it warm. Now when I plug it in, no fans are running. You do hear a quite humm and notice the water pressure control valve clicks, but not fan.  I'm assuming my controller board is hosed at this point.  Thoughts?

[Richard Demint]

1 hour ago, Mr TKH said:

By the way, I should add that the compressor fan is NOT running. It was when we originally came home to find it warm. Now when I plug it in, no fans are running. You do hear a quite humm and notice the water pressure control valve clicks, but not fan.  I'm assuming my controller board is hosed at this point.  Thoughts?

So many variables to consider when helping someone online, You went on vacation you said, Depending on where you live and what you set your house temperature at could have affected it meaning fridges do not like to run above 85 degrees. New to helping online so bare with me, On the compressor tests you should be unplugged and cooled down before testing.

Very likely control board is your case, do you have a picture of your board front and back? Also something to think about is if it is the board,  why that board failed, dc fan failure, relay ect.

Sounds like you are pretty handy with tools and such. Control board is hidden behind a metal plate usually on the back of unit held in with 1\4" screws. your inverter board is inside that greenish looking box on the side of your compressor. A service manual will help you out greatly at this point. I would NOT just replace boards as you could very well ruin a new board if you never fixed or found the root of the problem.

UNPLUG your appliance before you do anything! If you feel uncomfortable at this point or any time STOP and call for help. A few hundred dollars is not worth getting fried.

 

[vee8power]

21 hours ago, Mr TKH said:

I just tested the continuity between any of the pins and the actual ground on the compressor (which I assume is the flat metal pin to the left of the 3 pins) and I have no continuity. I used a 200 ohm setting on the multi meter and got "1", in other words, none of the 3 pins wires or windings are crossing over to the ground.

 

When looking for case ground,we're expecting something in the millions of ohms; use the highest ohms setting on your meter. There's a chance your meter will catch it.

21 hours ago, Mr TKH said:

By the way, I should add that the compressor fan is NOT running. It was when we originally came home to find it warm. Now when I plug it in, no fans are running. You do hear a quite humm and notice the water pressure control valve clicks, but not fan.  I'm assuming my controller board is hosed at this point.  Thoughts?

Try unplugging the J2(fans connection) connector on the board to see if that makes the compressor run. A bad fan can cause the compressor not to run on these.

[Mr TKH]

Gentlemen:

First, thanks for your help thus far. I've made progress but am at another "gate". 

I ordered a control board, as I confirmed the R15 was far too low and the fan would not turn on. Installed it just now and within seconds the fan starts running. Checked voltage at R15, 5 1/2 or so volts and it moves up and down slightly. GREAT! Control board did fix the voltage it was sending to the inverter. HOWEVER,  compressor is not kicking on.  I'm assuming the inverter is also bad, but I would like to check it has adequate voltage or someway to confirm it is dead and not just my compressor.  Is there a test?

I should add that when we left for vacation, I turned the home heat to 82 or something like that. New said we got as hot at 95 here, so maybe...just maybe that fried it.  I also noticed one of the doors was slightly open. Thus I assume it overheated.  Why that would fry the control board, I don't know. 

Again, if i now have fan running and 5+ volts at R15 and confirmed that my 3 coils resistance is identical (3 or so ohms), do I move to replace inverter?  If so, I think this is the 2nd inverter I've replaced on this fridge. The fridge is 7 years old.  Why would I lose 2 of these suckers? Any ideas?