Wolf Electric Oven S030 F/S won't heat with two error codes

[pigseye]

Hi All,

Our Wolf single electric oven model S030 F/S will no longer heat. It is over 10 years old so long past the warranty. A diagnostic check indicates the following.

• Comm Error - Communication Lost with the Oven Controller Board - This error indicates a Head Assembly failure. (i.e. entire control panel)

• Cool Fan - Cooling Fan Apparency Switch is Reporting Cooling Fan Failure - This error indicates a failure of either the Fan Apparency Switch or Cooling Fan

The Comm Error indicates that the entire control panel needs to be replaced. The unusual thing is that it appears to be fully functional. It lights up where it should, all the “keys” work. Timer and temperature entry functions, etc. But the oven will not heat up.

I can't imagine how much a new control panel costs but I found a used panel for a 36” stove for $600 on ebay.

Cooling fans and switches are probably reasonable to replace from a financial perspective even with Wolfs part pricing.

Really looking for help here. Up until now we loved the oven. Any suggestions and input is appreciated.

 

Thanks,

Steve

 

 

[Richard Demint]

12 hours ago, pigseye said:

Hi All,

Our Wolf single electric oven model S030 F/S will no longer heat. It is over 10 years old so long past the warranty. A diagnostic check indicates the following.

• Comm Error - Communication Lost with the Oven Controller Board - This error indicates a Head Assembly failure. (i.e. entire control panel)

• Cool Fan - Cooling Fan Apparency Switch is Reporting Cooling Fan Failure - This error indicates a failure of either the Fan Apparency Switch or Cooling Fan

The Comm Error indicates that the entire control panel needs to be replaced. The unusual thing is that it appears to be fully functional. It lights up where it should, all the “keys” work. Timer and temperature entry functions, etc. But the oven will not heat up.

I can't imagine how much a new control panel costs but I found a used panel for a 36” stove for $600 on ebay.

Cooling fans and switches are probably reasonable to replace from a financial perspective even with Wolfs part pricing.

Really looking for help here. Up until now we loved the oven. Any suggestions and input is appreciated.

 

Thanks,

Steve

 

 

First disconnect and inspect all connectors before reconnecting them. Are you handy at all with multi meter and soldering iron? Here is something you can check and it is a common issue these days. First disconnect power, second confirm power is disconnected!lol  take control panel out of unit, disassemble so you can see solder joints on back side of circuit board, look for arcing cracked solder joints at relays(small little white or black boxes on opposite side) if you found some re solder and you may have dodged a bullet, on the other hand you have to question how wore out is that relay? You can replace just the relay also but requires a bit more work and de soldering.

[pigseye]

Hi Richard,

I am handy with a multimeter and soldering ironI  All connectors that were within reach were all unplugged, inspected, and reconnected but none of these are on the control panel.  as it has not been removed yet.  Just wanted to make sure there wasn't something easy and obvious before I tackle that task.  It is quite a process to disassemble.

I'll get started on the control panel removal.

Thanks!

 

 

 

.

 

 

[pigseye]

Just for clarification, the control panel referenced is literally the front of the oven where you enter all the information to choose cooking type (bake, convection, roast, etc), temperature, timer, clock, etc.   It is not a oven control board inside the oven.  It is also on a servo motor and rotates out of sight when you don't want it to show so it is quite a production to remove it. 

Unfortunately, the entire oven will have to be removed for me to disassemble it enough to get to the front control panel because one side of the oven is against a wall.  So if there is anything else I can do before that I would like to try that first.

Thanks again!

[Hiroshi]

Following checks are performed with cables connected unless otherwise noted.

Do you have 36 to 41 VDC  -----> NO? ----> Do you have 36 to 41 VDC ----> NO? ----> Do you have 36 to 41 VDC  ----> NO? ---->  REPLACE RELAY BOARD
Pins 14 & 17 at J4 or J5?                                     Pins 14 &17 at J1?                               at J11A from Pin 1 to pin 2?
Pin 1 to pin 2?

        |                                                                                 |                                                                   |

     YES?                                                                        YES?                                                          YES?

        |                                                                                 |                                                                    |

Do you have 8 to 11 VAC  ----> NO? ---->   Do you have 4 to 8 VAC between ----> NO? --->  REPLACE CONTROL HEAD ASSEMBLY
from pins 8 & 9 at J11A?                             pins 8 & 9 at J11A?

                |                                                                  |

             YES?                                                         YES?

                 |                                                          REPLACE COMM CABLES

Step 4. Testing Oven Controller
Using a volt/ohm meter set to read DC voltage, at J2
Connector of the stepper motor control board, place
one meter probe to pin 1 and one meter probe to pin 2.
With harness connected and unit
turned "OFF", do you have
1 to 3 VDC at J2 from pin 1 to pin 2? ----> NO? ----->   Replace oven controller

                     |

                 YES?

                     |

With harness disconnected and unit
turned "OFF", do you have                     ----> NO? -----> REPLACE OVEN CONTROLLER
4 to 6 VDC between pin 1 & pin 2
of harness?

                    |

               YES?

                    |

    Replace Control Head assembly     

 

This is from the service manual, hopefully it can help you pin-point what needs replacement!        

[pigseye]

Thanks Hiroshi!  I will give it a try.

[Richard Demint]

1 hour ago, pigseye said:

Just for clarification, the control panel referenced is literally the front of the oven where you enter all the information to choose cooking type (bake, convection, roast, etc), temperature, timer, clock, etc.   It is not a oven control board inside the oven.  It is also on a servo motor and rotates out of sight when you don't want it to show so it is quite a production to remove it. 

Unfortunately, the entire oven will have to be removed for me to disassemble it enough to get to the front control panel because one side of the oven is against a wall.  So if there is anything else I can do before that I would like to try that first.

Thanks again!

Thats part of it, no easy way but to dig in. I have personally run into many that the comm cables were at fault. thats why i say check all cables and connectors, this is also referenced in most service manuals but yet is still largely overlooked, even by techs.

[pigseye]

Thanks again!  I will check it out next week.

[pigseye]

Hi All,

Well i finally got to the oven yesterday and took a part the entire control panel, sprayed contact cleaner into the the ribbon sockets, tediously reassembled to get the panel aligned properly and reinstalled it into the oven.  Great news!  Success the control panel works!!!

But according to my wife and kids the panel wasn't the only problem.  The oven didn't heat prior to the panel going out.  Now the oven will turn on including all convection settings on the panel, the fans will spin but the oven will not heat.

Any quick suggestions on what to look for first?

Thanks!!!

 

 

[pigseye]

Per my original failure codes this one seems relevant:

Cool Fan - Cooling Fan Apparency Switch is Reporting Cooling Fan Failure - This error indicates a failure of either the Fan Apparency Switch or Cooling Fan

Is actual fan failure fairly common?  Or should I be looking for a relay or switch that went out?

Not sure where to start so your help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

 

 

[AccApp]

Are you still getting that error code? I'd look for an open thermal cut off, probably just behind the relay board in the upper compartment. Most likely has two red wires going to it.

Edited January 16, 2018 by AccApp

[pigseye]

No error code any more and everything appears to run correctly on the panel.  Just no heat in the oven. 

I'll look for the thermal cut off.  Thanks!

 

[AccApp]

Have you made any progress?

 

[pigseye]

On 1/29/2018 at 11:58 AM, AccApp said:

Have you made any progress?

 

Not really.  I took it all apart again and found 2 red wires (both have 120V) that are on the relay power board (Wolf 805073B) but not sure where to go from here.  Each power wire on the relay board that is not white has 120V on it.  There is no power to the cooling fan but that is expected since the oven doesn't heat. 

I couldn't find anything that looked like it would be a thermal cut off switch.  I am imagining it is like a thermal snap switch or something like it.  If there is one it might be in the back or underneath the panels I can't take off without disassembling the entire oven.

I did turn the oven on in convection mode and the convection fans start up and then relays on the relay board make a very quick series of clicks and then repeats the clicking noise in the following sequence:

Oven on - clicks

17 seconds later - clicks

42 seconds later - clicks

17 seconds later - clicks

42 seconds later - clicks

 and so on.

I could attach a pic of the relay board to show you the two red wires I see but don't know how or if it is even possible.

Any other suggestions?

Thanks for your help!

 

 

[pigseye]

On 1/29/2018 at 11:58 AM, AccApp said:

Have you made any progress?

 

Figured out how to add pics

 

 

[Budget Appliance Repair]

The relay that is next to the transformer with the two big red wires under it looks like it is the DLB(Double Line Break)Relay - L2 power leg in and L2 Power leg out to all elements/loads

You need to check voltage between those two red wires when the oven is on and you hear the relays clicking.

If you get a reading of 240VAC across those two wires then the relay is either bad or the solder connections to the relay pins are burnt.

In other brands it's not uncommon to see cold solder joints cracked around the relay pins, I don't know if it's common on Wolf or not.

That's the board that you should remove from it's mounting post and check all solder connections at the relays and plugs for burnt/cracked/cold solder joints.

[pigseye]

Great!  I appreciate the insight.  I will get to it in the next few days.

Thanks again!

 

 

 

[pigseye]

Hey Willie!

You were exactly right!!!  I measured the voltage across the two red wires and got 240V.   Disconnected and removed the relay board and found a really bad solder joint on the DLB relay.  Cleaned it up real good and resoldered it and the oven heated right up. 

The bad solder joint was horrible and looked like it was completely eaten away over the years.  The relay leg wasn't even in electrical or mechanical contact with the circuit board anymore. 

I am going to let my wife and daughters do a little baking before i finalize the installation back into the wall just to make sure nothing else comes up.

Thank you so much for all your help!  Could I send you some beer money via paypal or heck I would be happy to write a check and send it to your house.  Just let me know. 

Steve

 

 

[Budget Appliance Repair]

Should be good to go for many more years!!!!  GOOD JOB!

[darren412]

Hi Budget  I have a point of information for myself that I would like to understand. I do realize this is basic electricity but I just want to make sure I am understanding this correctly.    Its a 3 part question.  1.)The checks you Had asked pigseye to perform were to be done while the oven was asking to heat up and while the two big red wires were still connected to the relays terminals.   Is that correct ?        2.) If the relay was Good  I would assume you be getting a close to zero reading on the meter ?   3.) if you are getting 240 volts across the two relay terminals while its still connected that would mean you are just reading the L1 leg from the other side of the heating element along with the L2 leg  because of the bad relay contact ?               

[pigseye]

Hi Darren412!

I can answer what happened when I didi the Checks that Willie suggested/

1) Yes, the oven was in heat mode and I was checking across both red wires which were connected to the relay.

2) When I did the measurement before the repair it was 240V.  I did the same measurement after the repair and got almost 0V (0.4V or something like that)

3)  Willie is going to have to answer this question but I think you're correct.

Hope I was a little helpful.

 

 

 

[pigseye]

Hey Willie,

I do want to send you some type of thank you gift.  is there a way you send me some contact info privately?

Thanks,

Steve

 

 

 

[darren412]

Thanks pigseye ,   That is helpful 

[Budget Appliance Repair]

@darren412, Pigseye' s answer of YES to your first two question is correct and you are also correct on your third question.

@pigseye If you want to donate anything, please just donate to the site to help out:  https://www.fixitnow.com/beerfund.htm

[darren412]

Thanks pigseye the more I can understand the actual flow of electricity the quicker in each and every cycle of not only this appliance but others, the easier it gets for me during diagnosis in making the correct decision on what I need to do .   Thanks for your help