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Maytag Dependable care washer LAT9605AAE


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Posted

Hello and Thanks for any help.

Maytag Dependable care washer LAT9605AAE

Machine has stopped agitating and spinning.  Produces burning smell from belt.

Machine has the original 24yr old belts on it.

Removing belts, they seem possibly stretched as they seemed quite lose. The center pulley (brake unit) Turns easily COUNTER clockwise.  Turning clockwise it DOES turn BUT with effort!

Looking at videos I would say it rotates up the helical shaft and then starts to turn the transmission unit above. WITH EFFORT.

So what I don't know is:

Should this transmission unit rotate under the drum?  It does now with effort.  Should it be stationary and just the shaft turn? (indicating something is broken inside)   I find it hard to believe that this large casing is supposed to spin under the drum. There is nothing holding the transmission stationary so maybe it does spin?

How much clockwise effort should it take to rotate the pulley?  It takes 2 hands with some effort and only moves with the effort, no free spinning here!

I just don't know how it should feel or act.  Again counter clockwise rotation is free and easy.

I was going to replace the belts, but I'm wondering if something else has failed.

On a side note, with the belts installed, putting the machine in spin cycle, and lid switch defeated.  Spinning the drum from the inside to assist it, IT WOULD start to spin.  It couldn't handle any load but it did pick up speed like it was try to go to hi speed spin.

I have suspected that hi speed spin has been slowing down due to the dampness still in clothes after the spin cycle

Just wondering if it could just be belts or what to investigate further.

Thanks again.... just hate to throw something out that could be saved.

John 

 

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  • Jonnyques

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  • evaappliance

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  • Hiroshi

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  • Budget Appliance Repair

    1

Posted

Clothing between tub and water tank is common.

Also...verify pump belt tension before testing spin cycle.

 

Posted (edited)

What John said, plus these tid-bits:

Most common cause for spin problems... sticky motor pivot, clean the plate ( top and bottom) and lubricate the slides with silicone gel. You can test this by pushing against the motor with your foot to increase the belt tension. From the sounds of your symptom, you likely have a main seal leak that has ruined the spin sleeve... Is there a black/brown spatter pattern about shin-high inside the machine's cabinet?

When the belt smokes during agitate- the liquid detergent has caused the transmission output to swell and begin grabbing the agitator shaft...

Edited by Hiroshi
Posted

Motor slides fine... Checked that when I saw the slack belts.

Zero splatter.  Everything inside is relatively clean and dry

What about the transmission spinning and the proper required energy to rotate the brake pulley clockwise?

Posted

Sometimes the spin bearing starts to seize from a slow tub seal leak before it leaks enough to show any splattering . Turning the trans pulley counter clockwise is agitating, and should be easy enough to do with one finger. Clockwise is spinning , and the trans should start turning with one hand before pulley  (bottoms out ) . If not the spin bushing is seizing up.  These are very good machines ! Repaired properly would still outlast anything on the market to today with the possible exception of speed queen.

Posted

Usually it won't budge at all with clothing between the tubs , but just in case pop the tub ring off and check for that as john63 said .

Posted

Ok so you think its worth the $150 in parts to replace the tub bearing?

From my description of problem can I rule out the brake?  

Im looking at the tub bearing kit, tub seal kit, 2 replacement belts (24 yrs old), spanner wrench, What about the tub bolts and rubber washers...do they go bad?   ANYTHING ELSE?

As much as I hate to junk a repairable machine I have to wonder if its worth it.  I don't want to throw in good $$ only to find out the issue is something else.

Thanks again for all the help!

Posted

It is 100% worth it. No new machines will cost 150 bucks and last as long as this one can... when you have it all apart, look for any rust spots forming on the bottom of the porcelain-on-steel washtub and put some scotch seal on them. I usually put about ten drops of oil into the new spin sleeve area after install to fight corrosion.

The three bolts that hold the tub to the frame have rubber washers that can generally stand to be tightened, and almost never leak. Pay special attention to the tub cover gasket, aligning it just like it was when you removed it can save headaches when istalling the cover back at the end of the job.

Posted

what hiroshi said   !!   +   the brake rarely fails .   if you elect to not fix it , put it in the corner of your garage and save it. in about 2 years of using a new washer , it will be more worth it to fix B)

Posted

LOL Thanks Guys, Ill order the parts and let you know.  Until then my kids can take their dirty clothes to there mothers house!  Time she did their laundry!

Posted

Before purchasing all those parts you should first at least open it up and remove the tub cover and check for any thing stuck between the tub top and and spin basket or between outer tub and spin basket.

If no signs of leakage from the tub stem seal, (splatter on inner cabinet right at level of bottom of outer tub), then most likely the seal and bearing isn't the problem.

Posted

You ask if these machines are worth repairing. I ask you how old is the machine and how many times have you had it serviced? Like stated above, no new machine will outlast this one without major$$$. I would start with the belts and see where it goes. By the by you can get both belts together and save a few coins by ordering part number 12112425 instead of ordering them seperately. Also if you do decide on this repair do yourelf a favor and replace the pump while youre at it.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Ok so I just went and picked up the parts that I ordered.  In the seal kit there is a funnel type part called mounting stem.  It has a cork wrap around the outside.  ITS NOT EVEN. It starts out under the lip, when it reaches the allen screw it angles up and goes over the top lip.  Just like it was poorly installed. Should I trim it so its all under the top lip?

Thanks...if I could post a pic I would... hope it makes sense.

Posted

no worrys  , they are all like that, no need to trim.

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