Frigidaire front-load Washer GLTF2940FS2 long cycle times

[buckyswider]

Hi all, I've got a creeping problem on my Frigidaire front-loader GLTF2940FS2 .

I don't know the proper name for the cycle, but I call it the "slow roll".  It's after the wash/rinse & drain.  Seems like it's trying to properly re-distribute the load prior to the spin cycle.  Anyway, the time for this has increased little by little over the years.  Sometimes in can take 15-20 minutes for this to complete until it finally decides to break into the spin cycle.  So and estimated 46 minute full wash cycle can take 60-90 minutes sometimes.  I like to think I'm zen enough to wait it out, but when you're in a time crunch to get out the door in the morning, it's nerve-wracking waiting to get the clothes into the dryer.

I did have a bad control board I replaced about three years ago.  But I don't think this problem coincided with that- it's just getting worse over time.  Is there anything I can do to remediate this or should I just take up some mind-relaxation techniques?  Thanks!  

[AccApp]

Try it with a load of just socks or similarly sized rags, start with it half full and see how long it takes to get to full spin. Other loads may take longer to redistirbute. Also worth taking a look at the shock absorbers. If you have the old round ones you might consider changing to the newer style rectangular rods, they do lose dampening ability over time.

[john63]

4 hours ago, buckyswider said:

Hi all, I've got a creeping problem on my Frigidaire front-loader GLTF2940FS2 .

 

That statement...is consistent with slow drain.

The Bellows under the tub may clogged...slowing down the rate of flow.

Most contemporary front loading washers will "lock-out" high speed spin until the Water Level Pressure Sensor indicates that the tub is empty of water.

Check the flow at the drain hose...water should flow solidly/forcefully. If the water seems to be pumping out too slow...this will cause an extended delay of high speed spin.

Other possibles...

Incorrect type or amount of detergent used.

Suds can clog/block the tubing that is part of the Water Level Pressure Sensor...causing false data (tub is empty but computer still detects water in tub...continues locking out high speed spin).

Low suds ("he") detergent is required.

Always use 2 Tablespoons per wash.

If the detergent has "2X" on the label...1 Tablespoon.

"3X" is 1 Teaspoon.

 

[AccApp]

That's true, these things have a coin trap that is not very easily accessible. Remove the lower panel and check the tub to pump connection, there is a little plastic "top hat"-shaped filter that easily clogs.

[buckyswider]

Thanks guys!  I appreciate the responses!

Will take the lowest hanging fruit first- in this case, checking the drain.  I can't readily check the flow rate of the drain or the shock absorber type as it's stacked in a second-floor closet, with the drain tube shoved into the inlet opening of a washing machine outlet box.  But if I recall correctly I can remove the bottom panel while the dryer still sits on top.  And that does seem to make the most sense in this situation.   If that doesn't work then I'll unstack and check the shocks.

From being a longtime samurai student I learned well and even keep a 2 tablespoon scoop (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B002RBEJT8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) in the fill drawer and I'm careful to use HE and not 2x or 3x.  

I sure wish someone sold an affordable scissor lift table to slide the dryer onto and roll out of the way without killing my back or having to bring inr help!!!  

[AccApp]

You can definitely remove and inspect the drain pump and shock absorbers by removing the lower front panel, no need to remove the dryer. One of the first things I learned about household appliances is to do only what is necessary. Any extra work benefits noone.

Edited October 7, 2017 by AccApp

[buckyswider]

Ahhhh poop.  I have a single-piece front panel.  Dryer has to come down.

I wonder if I can make it a two-piece with a roto-zip...

[buckyswider]

Interesting...I wonder if this would work for me?  Guess I have to measure the stacked height vs. the trash can height...  

 

 

[AccApp]

I've been able to remove washer front panels by simply sliding the dryer back on the washer. Of course I had side access. Dryers aren't that heavy. Give it a shot.

[buckyswider]

Hmmm, I wonder if I could make that work.  I have 4" in the rear, 3.5" on the right, and a whopping 13" on the left!!!

If I could somehow reach the rear washer lid screws I may be able to do it- just slide the dryer and washer lid back as a single unit.  

I can't even slide the washer forward a bit- it's sitting on a wood frame which was built over a drain pan (pretty good idea I do concede).  

[AccApp]

13”? Do you have a toddler who knows what a screwdriver is and can follow instructions? Maybe hook them up with a go pro or similar?

[buckyswider]

[buckyswider]

Setting up an appointment with a real appliantologist.  But in the meantime...

I remembered that these things are computers nowadays and have a diag mode (oddly enough I remembered that because now the dryer is acting up ).  

Put it into diag mode, filled it up, let it tumble for a bit, then went to drain & spin.  The thing emptied and went into spin in under 30 seconds.  

Now for the face-egg.  Put my reading glasses on and looked at the detergent bottle.  In smallish print next to the # of loads it says "2x concentrated".   I am used to the packing really hawking the higher concentrate (plus my eyes are going- see the pic below!)  Truth be told, my habit is to not fill that 2 tablespoon scoop all the way unless I have a full load.  Usually I fill it halfway or more (I'm cheap like that!).  But tomorrow I will use only one tablespoon and see if that makes a difference.  I'm not really optimistic basically because it exhibits this behavior not only after the wash cycle drain but also after the rinse cycle drain.  But I guess until this is figured out anything is possible...

 

 

 

[buckyswider]

Well the next few loads (which were small) made me think that the soap overload was the cause.  But just ran a "full" load and it clocked in at 60 minutes on the nose, on an initial 46 minute estimate.  And going into final spin is where it had issues with the slow-roll.  Going into the first spin (after wash) seemed to drag a bit, but only for about two minutes.

Oh well, a certified appliantologist will be out this week and we'll unstack the dryer and see if anything can be found.  Worse case scenario we replace the boot (it's pretty mildew-speckcled) and clean the coin catcher out and I just live with the long cycles.  I did pick up some shocks to have on-hand in case it seems like they're not quite as supple as new.  Don't want to have to wait for a second trip to replace them if necessary- especially with the stacking and unstacking.  Can always return them!