GE JTP56 lower oven doesn't heat

[penn0yer]

Bake doesn't work; broil doesn't work.  I think the last time I used the oven was for a self-clean cycle a few weeks ago; worked just fine.

Besides heating elements gone south (I'll check for continuity later) what's next to check?  Control module was replaced not terribly long ago.

I suppose I should be glad I'm discovering this now and not three weeks hence.

[AccApp]

Not a complete model number but you can check for 240v at both ends of the bake or broil element. Is this a wall oven or a range?

[AccApp]

Looks like a wall oven, I'd check the schematic in the upper compartment near the control board. Might be a thermal fuse which opened. It may be resettable.

[Chat_in_FL]

Don't know if grasshoppa can see pics, but worth at try

 

[penn0yer]

On 10/29/2017 at 6:47 PM, Chat_in_FL said:

Don't know if grasshoppa can see pics, but worth at try

 

I'll skip to the good part: No power coming through "L2" RED leg.  I only checked the bake element, not broil, but this makes sense.  With oven off, nothing on L1 (yellow, not black, in my model -- JTP56B0A1BB).  With oven set to 500ºF, 124 volts at L1.

As noted by Sensei AccApp, it's a double wall oven.  Looks like I'll have to pull the whole thing out of the cabinet to get at the thermal switch.  (Having already replaced the hinges, I know it's not that bad as long as I have able-bodied assistance.  What are children for?)

As long as I have the thing out, am I better off just replacing the thermal breaker instead of resetting?  Maybe even both of them?  A $20 investment is worth not having to pull it out of the cabinet again after cleaning up the Thanksgiving spatter.

Thanks.

[AccApp]

5 hours ago, penn0yer said:

As long as I have the thing out, am I better off just replacing the thermal breaker instead of resetting?  Maybe even both of them?  A $20 investment is worth not having to pull it out of the cabinet again after cleaning up the Thanksgiving spatter.

Definitely some sound thought processes going on here. Once a resettable thermal fuse trips due to overheating it becomes more likely to trip again.

[penn0yer]

10 minutes ago, AccApp said:

Definitely some sound thought processes going on here. Once a resettable thermal fuse trips due to overheating it becomes more likely to trip again.

I hate doing things twice.  Except measuring.  "Measure twice, cut once," my pappy used to tell me.

Unfortunately it's not quite so simple.  There are two for each oven -- front left, and right rear.  Front fuse is around $75, rear fuse is a more reasonable $35.  Front one is accessible through the center cavity, between the ovens.  Pop off the trim and she's right there.  And.... we don't think that's the one, because resetting it has zero effect.

Now, I could roll the dice and reset/replace the $35 item after hauling the thing out the wall.  With my luck it'll be the $75 item that's completely toasted and incapable of resetting.

Maybe I should test for continuity across the fuse I can access, before I waste any money (and the time it takes to access the rear).

Sensei?

[AccApp]

12 minutes ago, penn0yer said:

Maybe I should test for continuity across the fuse I can access, before I waste any money (and the time it takes to access the rear).

Little to lose by trying, go for it.

[penn0yer]

Figured you'd say that....

Somehow yanking the leads off the switch must have jiggled its innards, because now it resets and the oven heats as it was meant to.  Huzzah!

Despite ease of access (props to the GE engineer who put the reset near the front) I'm inclined to replace it anyway.  Really don't want it flaking on me the one day of the year I really could use three ovens.

[AccApp]

That's great. If it isn't broken, don't throw money into trying to fix it. Just keep some heavy gauge jumpers around if you need them.

[AccApp]

I'm kidding, don't ever bypass safety devices, cooking anything is not worth risking your home and family.

[penn0yer]

4 minutes ago, AccApp said:

That's great. If it isn't broken, don't throw money into trying to fix it. Just keep some heavy gauge jumpers around if you need them.

Let me think a minute...  Nope.  As much fun as it is to poke around in a narrow cavity with a length of 12ga wire terminating in alligator clips, I think I'll pass.  The $72 fuse will be shipped tomorrow.

Having at last found the schematic, I see the other thermal switch is for the fan.  It all makes sense now. 

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. 

[AccApp]

50 minutes ago, penn0yer said:

  As much fun as it is to poke around in a narrow cavity with a length of 12ga wire terminating in alligator clips,

12 ga? I was thinking at least double-aught, but then I used to be a welder so the term heavy gauge is relative.