Jump to content
Click here to check out this guide

FAQs | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Contact


DISCLOSURE: We may earn a commission when you use one of our coupons/links to make a purchase.
  • Upcoming Events

    • 10 May 2025 02:00 PM Until 03:00 PM
      1  
      All are invited to join in the conversation for all things Appliantological: bidness, customers, tools, troubleshooting, flavorite brewski, whatever. Webcams and microphones are open and live!
      Also, follow this Calendar Event so you'll get notified of new posts here. Look for the "Follow" button either at the top of the topic on desktop or below the topic on mobile.
      Who: This workshop is available to everybody, including you! You don't have to be a member of Appliantology to join the fun.
      When: Saturday, May10 @10:00 AM Eastern Time.
      Where: Online via Zoom
      How:
      Click here to register. If you're interested, register now. Arrive a couple minutes early to make sure your connection is working. Set a reminder for yourself for this workshop so you don’t miss it. 

Recommended Posts

Posted

My WF42H5000AW front-loader (15 months old) just failed in such a way that it can't properly spin. Per the Technical Information sheet from Samsung, I performed the troubleshooting steps including the Quick Spin Test (after emptying and draining the unit, and verifying the filter was clear, etc.). The unit does not successfully spin in the Quick Spin Test - when it tries to spin, it shudders a few times and maybe rotates about 30 degrees of rotation in 5 or 6 jerking movements before it stops (presumably sensing it failed). However, no error codes are generated/displayed.

I verified the motor winding resistances on connector CN6 were correct (approx 12 ohms between pins 1/2, 1/3, and 2/3), so the troubleshooting guide indicates the action is "change PCB". 

So I'm inclined to order parts, but it's not clear whether the PCB to change is the Inverter PCB (part #10 in the Samsung diagram - and what the CN6 motor connector is plugged into) or the main control PCB. I'd rather not have to buy both and send one back. Has anybody had experience with this type of failure and if so, what did you replace to fix?

Thanks much,

Tim Heywood

 

  • Replies 0
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • TCHeywood

    1

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...