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  • Upcoming Events

    • 01 February 2025 03:00 PM Until 04:00 PM
      2  
      All Appliantology tech members are invited to join in the conversation for all things Appliantological: bidness, customers, tools, troubleshooting, flavorite brewski, whatever. Webcams and microphones are open and live!
      This event is also a great time for any students at Master Samurai Tech to bring any and all questions about the coursework. We're happy to walk through any concepts you're having trouble with. Think of it like office hours with your teachers. 
      Also, follow this Calendar Event so you'll get notified of new posts here. Look for the "Follow" button either at the top of the topic on desktop or below the topic on mobile.
      Who: This workshop is only available to tech members at Appliantology.
      When: Saturday, February 1 @10:00 AM Eastern Time.
      Where: Online via Zoom
      How:
      Click here to go to the forum topic with the registration link. If you're interested, register now. Arrive a couple minutes early to make sure your connection is working. Set a reminder for yourself for this workshop so you don’t miss it.  And check out past workshops here: https://appliantology.org/announcement/33-webinar-recordings-index-page/

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Posted

My WF42H5000AW front-loader (15 months old) just failed in such a way that it can't properly spin. Per the Technical Information sheet from Samsung, I performed the troubleshooting steps including the Quick Spin Test (after emptying and draining the unit, and verifying the filter was clear, etc.). The unit does not successfully spin in the Quick Spin Test - when it tries to spin, it shudders a few times and maybe rotates about 30 degrees of rotation in 5 or 6 jerking movements before it stops (presumably sensing it failed). However, no error codes are generated/displayed.

I verified the motor winding resistances on connector CN6 were correct (approx 12 ohms between pins 1/2, 1/3, and 2/3), so the troubleshooting guide indicates the action is "change PCB". 

So I'm inclined to order parts, but it's not clear whether the PCB to change is the Inverter PCB (part #10 in the Samsung diagram - and what the CN6 motor connector is plugged into) or the main control PCB. I'd rather not have to buy both and send one back. Has anybody had experience with this type of failure and if so, what did you replace to fix?

Thanks much,

Tim Heywood

 

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