Jump to content
LIMITED TIME OFFER: Get up to $100 off tuition for Master Samurai Tech courses through November 30th ×
Click here to check out this guide

FAQs | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Contact


DISCLOSURE: We may earn a commission when you use one of our coupons/links to make a purchase.
  • Upcoming Events

    • 07 December 2024 03:00 PM Until 04:00 PM
      0  
      All Appliantology tech members are invited to join in the conversation for all things Appliantological: bidness, customers, tools, troubleshooting, flavorite brewski, whatever. Webcams and microphones are open and live!
      This event is also a great time for any students at Master Samurai Tech to bring any and all questions about the coursework. We're happy to walk through any concepts you're having trouble with. Think of it like office hours with your teachers. 
      Also, follow this Calendar Event so you'll get notified of new posts here. Look for the "Follow" button either at the top of the topic on desktop or below the topic on mobile.
      Who: This workshop is only available to tech members at Appliantology.
      When: Saturday, December 7 @10:00 AM Eastern Time.
      Where: Online via Zoom
      How:
      Click here to go to the forum topic with the registration link. If you're interested, register now. Arrive a couple minutes early to make sure your connection is working. Set a reminder for yourself for this workshop so you don’t miss it.  And check out past workshops here: https://appliantology.org/announcement/33-webinar-recordings-index-page/

Whirlpool Dryer not drying, WGD9550WW0


Recommended Posts

Posted

I bought it new Jan 2012.  It worked OK until it didn't, clothes were warm but not drying and stuff smelled like mildew.  Repairman came out (tough to find one that would touch this machine, even though the steam wasn't related to the problem) and he found the moisture sensors barely hanging on, he said, like not really physically connected.  He suggested replacing them and one other part if the problem returned.  Dryer worked better than new at that point.  I have replaced the entire vent to the outside more than once as well as vacuumed it out in between, never been much in there nor did I ever notice a change.  About 6m ago I started noticing an extra funky sound when I'd replace the lint trap, a metallic clunk maybe.  Husband is convinced it's just pocket change that fell down there. I'll admit, I have a kid now and I ask him to move laundry for me more often, so maybe it is. 

 

Dryer stopped drying all the way again about 3m ago, but not every load.  Dryer refused to start under normal modes earlier this month, so I've been using timed dry on the usual medium heat and checking so I don't overdry stuff while we figured out what to do next.  But now a week has gone by and timed dry isn't getting stuff dry either and new symptom--no lint in my lint trap.  My lint trap is usually so full when I'd set things to dry more I'd always empty it for efficiency.  It's warm in the dryer when I open it, so heat doesn't appear to be the problem. 

It seems like I've got more than 1 mystery thing wrong now, and with this thing 5 years old (yes, I've heard about planned obsolescence) should I just dump it and get a new one?  The repairclinic recommended parts list don't really add up to the problem now. 

  • Replies 10
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • Pamzella

    5

  • Budget Appliance Repair

    2

  • darren412

    2

  • AccApp

    1

Posted

No lint on filter is normally related to airflow outside, are you sure the entire vent is clear

Posted (edited)

Gas dryer, sounds like it very well could be bad gas valve coil kit, if you do a lot of laundry 5 years wouldn't be unusual to see gas valve coils going bad.

The clunk by the lint filter you are hearing is most likely the clunk from the gas valves opening that you didn't notice before because you really start noticing things that may have been there from the beginning but never noticed because the machine just works and does it's thing and you don't have to babysit it to make sure it's working.

At first part of the cycle it could be heating fine then anywhere from 5 - 15 minutes the flame stops lighting when it cycles and you start hearing the gas valve try to cycle repeatedly every 25-45 seconds because one the electromagnetic coils start to breakdown and not operate once they heat up.

Take the lower access panel off and watch the burner on the next load you try to do or just run it empty and let it run for a good 10 minutes, then come back and watch the flame.  If you see no flame, wait tell you hear the somewhat loud clunk, (the one you may have noticed happening recently), and see the ignitor start to glow then you may hear another slight click and see the ignitor go dim and no flame.  If the flame doesn't ignite when the ignitor turns off and it just keeps doing that then you for sure have a bad gas valve coil, (replace as a kit).

The not starting problem, if it lets you input your cycle and you push start and the drum doesn't start turning but you hear a click and if you wait the time counts down like it's working but nothing else is happening - maybe the belt break switch going bad, (yours is the older style sturdier switch that I don't usually see much problems with compared to the newer model cheapy switches but it still could be failing intermittently).

Part number: 279834

Part number: 279834

 

Edited by Budget Appliance Repair
Posted

I'm pretty sure the no lint on lint filter is because the clothes never really get dry enough to be shedding much lint since it's not drying correctly.

Posted
3 hours ago, Budget Appliance Repair said:

Gas dryer, sounds like it very well could be bad gas valve coil kit, if you do a lot of laundry 5 years wouldn't be unusual to see gas valve coils going bad.

The clunk by the lint filter you are hearing is most likely the clunk from the gas valves opening that you didn't notice before because you really start noticing things that may have been there from the beginning but never noticed because the machine just works and does it's thing and you don't have to babysit it to make sure it's working.

At first part of the cycle it could be heating fine then anywhere from 5 - 15 minutes the flame stops lighting when it cycles and you start hearing the gas valve try to cycle repeatedly every 25-45 seconds because one the electromagnetic coils start to breakdown and not operate once they heat up.

Take the lower access panel off and watch the burner on the next load you try to do or just run it empty and let it run for a good 10 minutes, then come back and watch the flame.  If you see no flame, wait tell you hear the somewhat loud clunk, (the one you may have noticed happening recently), and see the ignitor start to glow then you may hear another slight click and see the ignitor go dim and no flame.  If the flame doesn't ignite when the ignitor turns off and it just keeps doing that then you for sure have a bad gas valve coil, (replace as a kit).

So I'm hearing the clunk. when I slide the lint trap back into place.  Not while it's operating.  But we will pull the bottom part off and see what we can find under there. 

Posted

 

FIRST: Turn on the dryer and then Try going outside where the vent exits the house. Then feel if your getting a good air flow coming out .  If not,  then most likely your vent is blocked.   Even though it sounds like you are keeping up with the vent cleaning , it only takes a day for a bird to build a nest if they can get into the vent system and you did not notice it..   You have a gas dryer so I don't recommend you remove the vent at the back of the dryer inside and see if a dry cycle works with the vent disconnected because you will get a slight exhaust emission smell while its running and that might make you uncomfortable.  That would be your call. Just make sure its very clean and clear behind the dryer if you try that test. That test would tell you if there is a restriction in the vent line from the back of the dryer out only. That would not tell you if there is a restriction in the vent from the blower housing out to the back of the dryer.  I would thoroughly check the vent line system first from the dryers blower housing and fan blade out through the back of the dryer and the rest of the vent line system going out of the house.   You want to make sure the blower housing fan is mounted correctly onto the motor shaft at the blower housing. If the fan is stripped and not revolving at the correct speed that can cause your issue and can be easily over looked. The blower housing fan blades have to be clear of any obstructions for proper air flow in the drying process. I would do all this first if you can.  The majority of times its usually just an exhaust air flow problem some where in the system either in the dryer or the vent line.   Also if your vent system runs into the ceiling and travels through the ceiling and walls sometimes a prior block will cause water from condensation to get trapped in the loop of the vent system some where that you can not visually see and that can be causing a restriction in the vent line in the walls where the line could possibly have a small loop in it.   there is a metal clip also in some of the whirlpool filter housings that come loose and fall down towards the blower housing fan blade that may have caused that noise you were talking about too. I believe you said you had heard the noise after replacing the filter with a new one ??   hope this may be helpful and good luck.

Posted

I thought the blower fan is on the back of the unit where the vent hose gets connected?  Not in the front where the lint trap is....

I did not replace the trap as it's fine, I just mean pull it out, pull the fuzz off and put it back in. Right as it gets back in place, there's a metal clunking sound, which can't be the trap filter itself since that is plastic but could be something it hits. 

Yes, air flow is excellent outside, it's only 6' straight out and with a vent cover to keep rain away outside.  Some lint does get through, I clean up lint there occasionally.  I don't use softeners or dryer sheets that could cause residue. 

Posted

     the blower fan is behind the lower kick plate at the bottom front on the ft side.          I would also check the lint screen grille  on the inside  front  at the bottom of the door opening to make sure the openings on the grille are not blocked with lint in any way.    I would also take out the original lint filter and put it up to the light to make sure you can thoroughly see through the screen in the filter. Sometimes the lint screen can be blocked with crap that sticks to it and it can be blocked up too much.   If you cant see through the screen after putting it up to a bright light, I would take a brush to it under warm water and scrub it clean that might help.  Good luck

Posted

Ok guys!  I checked the blower-- functions just fine, minimal lint dust on it.  I cleaned off all aspects of the metal vessel around it.  There was a little metal bar like a 5" crow bar that was loose-- we didn't see it until we pulled of the rest to get to the blower, but put it back in place and no more rattle.  Nothing but a little bit of lint and a 1/2" piece of wire insulation was in there.  

We turned the dryer on timed dry on HIGH and I took a video of it firing.  We did a 30 min test on high--  and it seems to fire with the same volume of flame all the way through.  AND the towel in there did eventually get dry.   Here's the video:  https://imgur.com/a/F8UMC

That said, I'm having to split a normal load of laundry into 2 parts and dry half at a time on high for 2 45 min segments to get anything dry, so something is still not right.  Next suggestions?

Posted

Check for airflow where the dryer vent exits the building. That will tell you a big part of the story. It should be about as much as when you put your hand behind the dryer after disconnecting the vent and run it.

Posted

Will do!  Husband was wondering if what we need to do is check behind the blower fan but I think before removing it we will check that because it's easier to access. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...