Samsung RFG295AARS inverter compressor

[Square Deal Appliance]

I have always been a very traditional repairman, but these inverter compressors just aren't going away.  After a good deal of research, I know to test the power draw to determine if the inverter is sending power to the compressor. Fine. My Kill-A-Watt meter (between the fridge and the wall outlet) shows about 250w for maybe 5 seconds, then about 12w for a couple of seconds, then about 175w for 10-12 seconds, before dropping back to about 25w from then on. I was just about to say the compressor is shot, when I thought to try it with the compressor unplugged. It did exactly the same thing. What in heck am I seeing, here?

[16345Ed]

Using your tech sheet. We test the signal the main board is sending to inverter. If that is present then we ensure the inverter is receiving AC power directly. If both those exist you test your compressor for proper resistance and be sure it's not shorted. If that's good replace inverter. 

 

3 hours ago, Square Deal Appliance said:

 

I have always been a very traditional repairman, but these inverter compressors just aren't going away. 

 

I highly suggest you join this site as a professional and even start some training from the Academy. Then no appliance will intimidate you. 

[Thermotrain]

On 12/26/2017 at 4:07 PM, 16345Ed said:

Using your tech sheet. We test the signal the main board is sending to inverter. If that is present then we ensure the inverter is receiving AC power directly. If both those exist you test your compressor for proper resistance and be sure it's not shorted. If that's good replace inverter. 

 

I highly suggest you join this site as a professional and even start some training from the Academy. Then no appliance will intimidate you. 

This method of troubleshooting sounds good, but what if the compressor is locked. All you mentioned could still be observed and the issue would not be the inverter, but the compressor.

[EthanRanft]

28 minutes ago, Thermotrain said:

This method of troubleshooting sounds good, but what if the compressor is locked. All you mentioned could still be observed and the issue would not be the inverter, but the compressor.

The last step would be to check amperage on the 120VAC supply to the inverter. If you disconnect power to the inverter, and then reconnect, a functioning inverter will try to start the compressor and you’ll see a few amps. If you’re seeing amperage on and off and the compressor isn’t starting, you know the compressor is locked. LR amps on an inverter compressor is only about 4A

[Vance R]

@  Square deal appliance : you are seeing the start up attempts by the inverter board. Ohm all three pins sets 1 to 2, 2 to 3, 3 to 1. Number don’t matter just pick a pin as 1. Just have to ohm out all 3 sets. The resistance valves should be the same. If not equal replace compressor and inverter. Next ohm all 3 pins to the compressor case( ground). Should be infinity.  If any has a resistance to the case replace compressor and inverter. If all checks good replace the inverter and the compressor should start and run. If compressor doesn’t start you’ll need to replace compressor. There is not a good way to tell if compressor is locked up. Also make sure condenser is clean and condenser fan motor is running. 

[16345Ed]

Why reply to a 2 year old post?

14 hours ago, Thermotrain said:

This method of troubleshooting sounds good, but what if the compressor is locked. All you mentioned could still be observed and the issue would not be the inverter, but the compressor.

 

[Thermotrain]

Because I am new here, and the thread seemed incomplete.

[16345Ed]

No problem brother. Welcome aboard!