Kenmore Elite Oasis Washer 2010 model

[CV-62]

Hi all, first post here.  From tropical Vermont.  As the title states I own a 2010 Kenmore Elite Oasis Washer.  Top load, model # 110.28042701.  Overall I have had good luck with the machine.  A few self induced SD alarms due to foreign objects left in pocket getting trapped in that white plastic debris filter. The main bearing has been replaced under service agreement.  Recently I started getting the LD alarm.  Another quick check of the debris filter showed nothing.  The pump was replaced with a new one. First time with the LD alarm.  Always had SD previously.  

What happens is this.  At the start of the first drain and spin cycle, the machine just has a very faint hum with no pump / no drain action. The hum emanates from the control board area like a relay type hum.  If I press the stop button, wait a few seconds and press the start button the pump will immediately start pumping, then the machine will properly cycle through.  Next milestone is the the final drain and spin usually at the 8 minute mark on the countdown timer.  Usually it will properly  start draining, then spin and properly finish the wash cycle.  Sometimes it does not and when this happens, cycling the start / stop button does not help. I usually then have to unplug the machine and then hit the drain and spin button to finish the cycle.  

When I replaced the pump back in September, it did this the first time I fired it back up, did the fore mentioned "solution" and the machine worked fine for over 3 months until yesterday.  I'm at a crossroads here because I am suspecting the control board but I have no evidence to back that up and certainly do not want to buy a board on a whim.  Tomorrow I will replicate this issue and post the video here via Youtube. 

If this problem sound familiar to anyone, I would appreciate any input you may have.  Thank you in advance. Happy New Year.  

CV-62

[AccApp]

Independence- I’d try opening up the control board and locating the relay that powers the drain pump. Try and feel it move when it should, and confirm it is sending power when it should. I’ll bet that relay is faulty and will continue getting worse. If you’re handy with a soldering iron you can desolder it from the board and solder in a new one. I often like to do autopsies on such parts and I’m certain if you do one you will find bad contact points in that relay. The relay will have marks indicating what a correct replacement will be.

[CV-62]

Thank you AccApp for the reply.  I do have some soldering skills and I will look further into that relay.  As I stated in my first post, I considered that relay the culprit and probably should have looked closer at it before changing out the pump.  Good to have a spare pump I guess.  Again, thanx for the help.  

[CV-62]

OK, thanx to a friend who knows someone who knew someone, LOL, I got my hands a used control board for $65.00.  I installed it and so far so good.  Only run about 6 loads through the washer with no issues. I plan to take the old control board apart and see if I can replace the offending relay and then have a spare board.  We really like this machine as it uses very little water, which is perfect for our septic system, yet does a nice job of washing.  We have some friends with fancy Samsung, LG or whatever machines they paid a fortune for and complain that sometimes all their laundry does not even get entirely wet let alone clean.  I do not need that kind of grief and aggravation.  

Thanx again all for the replies and support.  Kudos to all that helped.  God bless and MAGA.  

[sh2sh2]

Was it an oem pump?

[CV-62]

Yes, it was.  That is what made me giggle and be happy.   So far, up to 8 loads and no issues.  Mother is happy too, I may add.  

Cheers all and always keep the Faith.  

[AccApp]

Great job. No doubt loads of good, used boards available due to bearing failures making these machines uneconomical to repair.

[CV-62]

22 hours ago, AccApp said:

Great job. No doubt loads of good, used boards available due to bearing failures making these machines uneconomical to repair.

Yes, good point.  Bearing was replaced on my machine in 2013 with the extended service agreement rapidly coming to an end.  I could not believe it when they shipped the whole tub assembly in a large box.  The tech had everything shipped to my house and then he came and replaced it.  He told me this was a better bearing then the original and so far it seems to be true as the original lasted only 3 years and the replacement going on 5 years. 

Thanx for the kudo.  I like to tinker and try to fix things.  Now I am so flushed with victory, I am thinking of replacing the fuel pump in my truck.  The pump itself is working great, it is the back flow preventer leaking by inside the pump assembly causing the fuel rail to lose pressure resulting in hard cold starts.  Anyone here fuel pump experts?  LOL.  Nah, I think I got this one.

Cheers.  

[AccApp]

44 minutes ago, CV-62 said:

Anyone here fuel pump experts?  LOL.  Nah, I think I got this one.

Cheers.  

I had a 96 Jeep and the oem fuel pump died. Got a Mopar replacement from a Jeep dealer which lasted two days, the replacement for that din't even last one day. The dealer refunded me my purchase price and I put in an Airtex pump, worked for at least 8 years until it moved on to another owner. Had an 87 Astro which gave me fits, would stall on upgrades at slow speeds but immediately restart. Ended up an insert in the tank came loose and was bashing the fuel pump around and causing an intermittent ground, dropped the tank, shoved the insert into it's proper place (must have never been installed correctly from the factory and soldered the joint back up. That ran a few more years until a trans gear (plastic) ate itself and wouldn't upshift, causing an engine overrrev which led to a main bearing failure. Lasted a few weeks with a knock until a rod came through the block.

Good luck with yours. I prefer equipment without fuel pumps: motorcycles and my Frazer rototillers.

[LaRayParateur]

Bearings are no longer really costly to repair on these models with OEM kit W10435302 from Whirlpool.

As long as you have a bearing driver / press, parts to do a full bearing and seal replacement job are cheaper than the drain pump.

In order to check the relay, for these who don't have access to a spare board, you can simply connect the pump wires to a voltmeter instead and cycle the pump on and off in service mode to check which tension the pump gets.

Sometimes with a bad relay, there is a tension but no more than 60V... or sometimes it gives a full 120V, sometimes nothing, causing the intermittent LD code.

 

[CV-62]

I'm back.  Same problem.   Like I said earlier, I replaced the motherboard in January of this year.  One week after replacing the motherboard I got an LD alarm.  Oh, oh. Reset the machine and for the past 10 months no issues whatsoever, until yesterday.  Now the LD alarm is back with a vengeance. 

Points to ponder. 

1. New pump SEP 2017.

2. New motherboard Jan 2018.

3. New bearings Apr. 2017.

4. The pump will either work or it does not work.  No long drain issues.  Filter clear.  Standpipe clear.  I can hear the relay engage but pump will not start.  Reset the machine, then press the 15 minute drain & spin and most of the time it will pump the water right out and spin.

5. Using the Casual wash setting the drain will occur at the 18 minute mark and final drain and spin at the 8 minute mark remaining.  Sometimes the LD will occur at the 18 mark, sometimes at the 8 mark, sometimes not at all and a normal wash cycle will occur.  

If anyone has and further thoughts on this other then what has been previously been discussed I would appreciate it very much.  I am a retired master electrician and EM in the Navy so I am handy with the tools but no appliance repairman.  

Happy Thanksgiving everyone.  

 

[moish]

Change the relay.

[CV-62]

Which relay are you referring to? 

 

Thanx..

[moish]

The one you heard that is not engaging the pump.