Kenmore Elite Ultra Wash Dishwasher 665.13963K011

[kieferk29]

I have a Kenmore Elite Ultra Wash Dishwasher purchased in 2011.  I ran a load of dishes and it worked fine.  Just got back after being gone for a week and went to run the dishwasher but it has no power.  I confirmed it is connected and the electrical outlet has power.  There are no lights - it is dead as if it was not hooked up to electrical. Removed the internal electrical cover and confirmed there is power at the wire nuts.  Could it be the thermal fuse?  What should be the direction of my diagnostics?

Thank you!

Karen

[AccApp]

Open up the control panel and confirm that the board is getting power and that the thermal fuse if present is not open. Very rare for a thermal fuse to fail while the machine is not in use.

[kieferk29]

Removed the thermal fuse and tested.  It is an open circuit with no continuity. Upon further investigation, the plug containing the wires to the heating element is discolored where the blue heater element wires connect. Where the black and white wires are attached there is no discoloration.  Is it possible I have a bad heating element which could have tripped the thermal fuse?  What should be my next diagnostic step?  Thank you in advance.

[kieferk]

I'm thinking the heating element may have tripped the thermal fuse at the end of the last wash cycle.  Would replacing the thermal fuse potentially fix the issue? 

 

[AccApp]

It wil definitely fix it temporarily but it will probably fail again. I’d replace the control board, the thermal fuse and the discolored wiring connectors.

[Rhubarb Tau]

I agree with @AccApp , need to replace the board and overheated connectors for a reliable repair , as well as the thermal fuse. The thermal fuse is typically tripped by the heat generated in those baked connectors at the main control ; that's why it's located in the control board enclosure.

Connector oxidation is a viscous cycle. The connector is loose or too resistive , which generates heat (just like the heating element does), and the elevated temperature accelerates the oxidation of the connector, which creates more heat , more oxidation , etc.

You could check the heating element too, but it's not likely at fault. Most ohm out (cold) to ~8-15 Ohms and draw ~6-8 Amps (hot).