Samsung Range M# NX58H9500WS AA went dead after self-clean

[adamsappl12]

Manufacturer: Samsung

Type of Appliance: Free standing range

Model Number: NX58H9500WS AA

Have you validated the model number at an online parts site like Repair Clinic? (yes or no): Yes

Have you watched the video on how to search for manuals and have you searched the Downloads section prior to posting this request? (yes or no): Yes

Looking for service manual or wire schematic or both. Unit is completely dead after self clean. Cooktop works but nothing else. Unfortunately never have seen this model or have worked on it. I'm assuming a fuse is blown by unsure where it's located and can't find it and parts breakdown.

[applianceman97]

Was is the files section already. Here is the link. Check out the video on how to search for files. It may help you in the future.

 

 

[FortRepairs]

Just to help with a quick diagnosis if anyone runs into this as I just did, there's a TCO before the main board that is most likely gone out. It's located under the cooktop next to the ventilation fan. If you have voltage at the outlet but not at T501 of the main board the tco is gone. DG47-00010B

[darren412]

Hi Fort, I am curious as to how you gained access to this thermostat.  It looks like gaining access to this thermostat can be done from the back and removing the back panel. that's going to be my approach. I got a call today with the exact same complaint on this model. the customer did a self-clean and the control board screen at panel is totally dead. No lights, nothing, and the door locked shut.  I'm thinking the fuse went during the self-clean and when the fuse blew. it stopped the door lock operation while in clean mode and then disabled the door lock in the locked mode. I most likely changing that fuse will reset the latch lock and then it will go back to opening up. I'm going to look at the service manual in the meantime to see if it shows how to gain access to this thermostat. I just figured this would be helpful. if you were able to let me know if I was right or not for gaining access to this thermostat. I really don't want to be taking the top off if I don't need too.

[FortRepairs]

It's been quote a while since I have been at this stove but you can access it from the back,  it's tight but I made it work. The path of least resistance would be to pop off the top though.  

[darren412]

On 8/23/2023 at 11:05 PM, FortRepairs said:

The path of least resistance would be to pop off the top though.

yes, taking off the top is definitely the easier approach. than trying to reach the fuse from the back.  Since the oven door was locked shut. I slid the oven out and took the back off first so I could put 120v directly to the lock motor that was accessible from the back and unlocked the door. Then I took off the top. fortunately, only one of 3 screws in the main big double burner on this gas unit had seized and broke off. The other two screws were fine. the rest of the burner screws came off easily and the top was off in 5-8 minutes. the TCO was right there towards the middle rear of the upper cavity below the top. once that was replaced power was supplied back to the main UI and everything was back in the same order before the self-cleaning cycle was initiated. all but one thing!  there was a reason for why the oven TCO was triggered right!  I also found that the cooling fan was not working too. So, a bad cooling fan actually caused the shut down during the cleaning cycle and not specifically a failed TCO from the self-cleaning heat in the oven. So, once the oven is tested after replacing the TCO and repositioning the lock motor. You need to make sure the cooling fan is operating properly. It's very important, not to rush out and think everything is fine just because power was reestablished again because you only needed to replace the TCO at that moment.  once I realized I couldn't hear the cooling fan. I inspected the cooling fan blade through the top rear grill where the cooling fan exhaust's the heat out of the oven. I noticed a sliver of wood had found its way through the top back vent on the oven and it found its way into the cooling fan blade and jammed up the cooling fan blade. There had been construction work in the kitchen done a month earlier. thus, problem solved.   Point of information:  If you don't have the fuse like a lot of other applications. Just fit the bad TCO on a finger that securely fits between the TCO's terminal connections. then flatly bang it onto a hard surface as level as you can. That will snap back the TCO's bi metal. Now you can reuse the original TCO to get you out of a jam. Just don't damage or crack the housing of the TCO. In my case I replaced it with a new one.  I will only do that unless I'm in a jam. 

Edited August 25, 2023 by darren412