Kenmore Washer 110.20932991--No Drain, No Spin

[MarkH]

Recently washed a load which ran its course and discovered that the washer was still full of water at the end of the cycle. Verified that the water pump was okay and then removed the motor coupling between the motor and transmission and successfully drained the washer after bypassing the lid switch. Timer advanced through the full cycle and motor also ran during the spin cycle.

Proceeded to remove the inner tub. Lot of crud but everything intact. Some pock marks on the bottom surface of drive block, but functionally sound.

Not sure if I have a clutch, brake, or transmission problem, so I tried to run spin cycle with tub removed. Cycle started but seized up within the first revolution. Therefore, I removed the gearcase.

Clutch seems to be okay, spring intact, pads engaged. Entire unit turns together manually.

Not sure about the brake. The plastic white part rotates back and forth about 30 degrees. Is this normal? Can manually turn the brake and spin tube together and in only one direction. Is this normal?

Have I thus reduced this down to a bad transmission? What more can I do to make sure this is the case? Any help greatly appreciated.

[evaappliance]

This is going is all over the place, let’s just start with what happens with everything assembled when you bypass the lid switch?  And since you have already went this far, you should be able to turn the transmission shaft at the coupling clockwise and spin the tub and counter clockwise to agitate.  In my own experiences I haven’t had many transmissions to completely lock down but it can happen. Also when you removed the coupling and pumped the water out, was the moter normal sounding?

[MarkH]

Thank you for getting back to me. By way of background, I wanted to add that I had replaced the agitator dogs and motor coupling in August of 2015. My first thought this time was to check the coupling again, as it was  an easy fix last time. I found that all three parts of the coupling were okay. So, I decided to test the motor while it was mounted on the gearcase but not coupled to it. I connected the water pump back to the motor and was able to drain the tub. I also had the motor run in the spin cycle while uncoupled. The drain and spin sounds were different in pitch, but ordinary, which leads me to believe the motor is okay.  I replaced the coupling and tried to run a small load cycle. Got no agitate, drain or spin with the motor and gearcase connected. Removed the coupling again to drain the tub.

I should also mention that I was able to turn the tub by hand in the counter-clockwise direction but it tended to bind and was much harder to turn in the other direction. Proceeded to remove the inner tub as the next step and also to clean the outer basket since I originally got the washer as a hand-me-down. The basket was really fixed to the center post. Eventually succeeded in removing the basket and drive block as a unit with a 3-jaw puller connected to the loosened spanner nut. As I said before, other than ~20 years of crud to clean up, nothing wrong with these parts. Even pried the filter off the basket for cleaning.

When I pulled the gearcase, it was a bit awkward coming out but I didn't find the broken clutch/brake parts I was hoping to see. Thank you for your suggestion of turning the transmission at the coupling. My first attempts at turning it were inconclusive. I then chanced to push on the transmission shaft and found some play side to side. I kinda doubt that this play is normal. Since I wasn't seeing clear cut results while turning the coupling, I tried turning the shaft and watching the coupling instead. The shaft did not turn easily. I ended up wrapping the splines with a rag and clamping on a pair of vice grips. This enabled me to turn the shaft until it got stuck. I left the pliers attached and went back to turning the coupling. And I discovered that the shaft would turn about a quarter of a turn and then reverse direction, so that while I continued to turn the coupling clockwise, the shaft would advance clockwise for a quarter turn and then counter-clockwise for a quarter turn and reverse again. This was also true when turning the coupling counter-clockwise. This leads me to believe the transmission is my problem. Any chance I can rebuild it?

[evaappliance]

sounds weird, but seems like you have been diligent at checking it . does sound like you have a bad trans, I double checked one here in the shop just to be sure, but when you turn it clockwise at the coupling after a round or two the clutch should turn .  I have never had much success rebuilding them , I would just get a new one that will have a year warranty. your washer is a good one and worth putting even the price of a new washer to fix it . not that it will be that much but just saying .      

[MarkH]

Thank you for the reply. I failed to mention it and yes, I do see the clutch turning in the clockwise direction while turning the coupling clockwise. Clutch stationary when turning counter-clockwise. I will probably open the gearcase at least to satisfy my curiosity. Would you recommend replacing the clutch along with the transmission or just the trans since the clutch looks to be sound?

[Lighthouse]

When I do one of these jobs I replace the clutch so that there is less chance of being recalled. You already have it off and it is not that much more. 

I also change seal, drive block & nut.