Maytag LAT8740AAL Stopped Working After Loud Pop Sound

[ArL2016]

I previously fixed a Maytag LAT8740AAL washer made in August 1992, Maytag LAT8740AAL won't agitate, by replacing the original WP207373 timer with a used WP207373 timer I found on Amazon.

A week ago a new problem occurred.

As some laundry was being washed, a loud POP was heard after which the washer stopped working, no agitation, no draining of the water, no rinse cycle and no spin cycle.

We took out the clothes and drained the water by hand.

I checked the belts on the bottom of the washer I also previously replaced and they appear okay.

When I turn the timer dial to the wash cycle at say 4 minutes, the tub will fill with water but then stops and does not start agitating and does not advance through the wash cycle to the drain, rinse or spin cycles.

I found this post from another website pertaining to a different washer model that suggests the control panel shorting out is what caused the loud POP sound.

I assume that "control panel" for my Maytag LAT8740AAL means either the timer or the timer motor though this Control Panel service manual page shows other parts that may have shorted out and be the cause of the problem:

Part 10, Water Level Pressure Infinite Switch, Manufacturer Part Number WP207360

Part 17, Speed Control, Manufacturer Part Number 207370

Part 23, Switch, Temperature Control, Manufacturer Part Number 207367

 

I opened the control panel and there doesn't seem to be any obvious damage such as burn marks or black soot on any of these parts.

I think it is the timer and I did find a brand new OEM WP207373 timer for about $100 but before I buy it, I wanted to get any advice on how to diagnose which part is actually bad and needs to get replaced.

Any ideas?

 

 

 

[16345Ed]

More than likely a contact in your “used” timer shorted. 

Otherwise you need to follow voltage through the schematic diagram. 

 

[sh2sh2]

Does your lid switch have a fuse in it,. Ok sure what style lid switch you have

[ArL2016]

2 hours ago, 16345Ed said:

More than likely a contact in your “used” timer shorted. 

Otherwise you need to follow voltage through the schematic diagram. 

 

Thanks, I think you're right that it is the timer.

At the time, I think the cheapest new timer I found was around $180 so went with the inexpensive used timer ($40?) and at least it lasted about 6 months.

I do have the schematic diagram but don't know how to test the timer using it. Even if I did, I wouldn't know how to fix any problem I'd find.

[ArL2016]

2 hours ago, sh2sh2 said:

Does your lid switch have a fuse in it,. Ok sure what style lid switch you have

This is the lid switch assembly WP22001682, I replaced the original one with a new OEM one about 6 months ago and yes, it does have a fuse in it.

The wire inside the fuse looks unbroken.

There is a very small black spot (soot ?) with a tiny bit of green corrosion on the red wire connector that attaches to the single L-shaped connector on the white lid switch module but doesn't look like it's from a short.

[evaappliance]

Check the spring on the door switch actuator , 

[ArL2016]

11 hours ago, evaappliance said:

Check the spring on the door switch actuator , 

The spring was replaced with a new spring 6 months ago, I'll check it tonight.

[ArL2016]

On 3/23/2018 at 6:36 AM, evaappliance said:

Check the spring on the door switch actuator , 

I checked the  lid switch actuator spring, it is unbroken and is attached to the lid switch actuator the way it is supposed to be.

I had to take the front panel off to check the lid switch actuator spring so I checked the motor, the tub suspension springs, etc and everything looks undamaged.

My sister told me today that when she heard the loud "Pop" sound, the laundry load was unbalanced, I don't know if that might have caused the problem.

I'll probably buy the new timer Part number: WP207373 and hope that fixes the problem.

[ArL2016]

I thought the used timer motor Part number: WP22205033 might be the problem instead of the used timer Part number: WP207373.

I still had the original OEM timer motor so I put that in place of the used timer motor but the washer still doesn't work.

I think I'll buy and install a new timer Part number: WP207373  and hope that fixes the problem.

If not, I'll try replacing the Speed Control Part number: 207370 and the Temperature Control Switch Part number: 207367

If none of this works, I may try a new Water Level Pressure Infinite Switch Part number: WP207360 but the tub fills and stops when it is supposed to so I don't think this part is causing the problem.

 

[Econo Appliance]

On 3/22/2018 at 3:16 PM, sh2sh2 said:

Does your lid switch have a fuse in it,. Ok sure what style lid switch you have

sh2sh2 is on the right track, this is a early 90's Maytag with the fuse built onto the lid switch.     This is step 1 to check. I'll put my bets on lid switch/fuse

[evaappliance]

After verification of the spring ,  i’m Going with the lid switch too .

[evaappliance]

3 hours ago, ArL2016 said:

My sister told me today that when she heard the loud "Pop" sound, the laundry load was unbalanced, I don't know if that might have caused the problem.

This is why we believe it is related to the door switch /actuator area .

[ArL2016]

Thanks for all the replies guys!

I replaced  the Lid Switch Assembly Part number: WP22001682 6 months ago with a new OEM part, but it turns out that the actual problem at that time was that the old, original Timer Part number: WP207373 was bad.

I still have the old, original OEM Lid Switch Assembly Part number: WP22001682 that should still be in good working condition so I'll reinstall it later today and see if that fixes the problem.

If not, I also have a brand new OEM Door Switch Part number: W10820036 that I ordered by mistake since I didn't realize it was included as part of the new Lid Switch Assembly Part number: WP22001682 I had previously ordered so I can try installing it and see if it fixes the problem.

If not, that leaves the Lid Check Switch Part number: WP207166. I don't have a replacement for that so I'd have to order it or maybe find it locally.

[ArL2016]

The washer is now working.

I first took out the 6-month old newly installed Lid Switch Assembly Part number: WP22001682 and replaced it with the washer's old Lid Switch Assembly Part number: WP22001682 (I'm pretty sure this is the original 26-year-old part). Then I turned the timer dial to the 4 minute wash cycle and the washer tub would fill with water and stop but then would not agitate, drain, or advance to the rinse and spin cycles.

I then took out the old Lid Switch Assembly Part number: WP22001682, took out the old Door Switch and replaced it with a brand new and unused Door Switch Part number: W10820036 and reinstalled the old Lid Switch Assembly. Then I turned the timer dial to the 4 minute wash cycle and the washer tub filled with water and then began to agitate. I lifted the lid to verify it was agitating, it was, but then when I closed the top lid the washer stopped agitating and when I turned the timer it did not drain or advance to the rinse and spin cycles.

I also tried the new and unused Door Switch Part number: W10820036 in the 6-month-old Lid Switch Assembly Part number: WP22001682 and the washer tub would fill but nothing else.

I then decided to test the three Door Switches (one from the original Lid Switch Assembly, one from the 6-month-old Lid Switch Assembly and the new and unused Door Switch) for continuity with a digital multimeter. All of them checked out but I noticed that when I tested the new and unused Door Switch, the reading of 0.000 would be almost instant whereas when testing the other two Door Switches the reading would start at some random number and eventually get down to 0.000. Also, the new and unused Door Switch has two terminals, one for the Open position and one for the Closed position, but the older Door Switches only had one terminal for both Open and Closed positions but I don't know if that made any difference in the readings I got.

I also tested the two Lid Check Switches Part number: WP207166 (one from the original Lid Switch Assembly, one from the 6-month-old Lid Switch Assembly) and they both tested fine.

I then realized that when the washer stopped agitating after I opened and closed the lid, maybe the issue was that I did not have the Lid Switch Assembly in the right position in the Control Panel.

I reinstalled the 6-month-old Lid Switch Assembly Part number: WP2200168 but this time I moved it towards the front of the washer until I heard the white button switch click and then I tightened the Screw Part number: WP489355 holding it in place.

Now the washer's wash cycle works as it should.

When the loud "Pop" sound was made and the washer stopped working, could the Lid Switch Assembly, if it wasn't tightened down enough, have moved out of position by the unbalanced load and moved just enough to stop the washer from agitating and not draining, rinsing or spinning?

I'm pretty sure I had tightened the screw tight enough when I installed the new Lid Switch Assembly six months ago but maybe it got loose over the past 6 months.

Anyway, it is working now and thanks to all that provided possible fixes!

 

 

[ArL2016]

I forgot to mention I also tested the two fuses (one from the original Lid Switch Assembly and one from the 6-month-old Lid Switch Assembly) and both also tested as good.

[16345Ed]

I’m completely lost...

 

but yes if lid switch wasn’t secure intermittent problems could occur. 

Edited March 30, 2018 by 16345Ed

[evaappliance]

Sounds possible ,  i have learned over the years to just go with it ! Lol !