Whirlpool Refrigerator Model GX2FHDXVQ07 - Ice Build-up Behind Rear Wall

[Timboroni]

I have a Whirlpool Refrigerator Model GX2FHDXVQ07 that was not cooling the refrigerator compartment while the freezer compartment worked fine. I removed the panel from the rear of the freezer area and found a big block of ice in the upper right hand corner, as well as a lot of ice on the tops of the fins. I checked to see if the drain was clogged and it was not.

I thawed out the block of ice and everything is working fine, but I know that the same thing is going to re-occur if I don't fix the problem. Any suggestions are appreciated!

 

 

[CLOWNmfer]

it is most likely the fan. did you check to make sure the fins were clear on the evaporator, and that the fan was calling when the cooling is called for? I am an HVAC tech just getting into the appliance aspect, and figure that is the most likely thing that'll happen.

 

[CLOWNmfer]

 

I also found this if it doesn't help.

 

[16345Ed]

Did lower “fins” have frost on them?

sounds like defrost system issue. 

[16345Ed]

These are often a problem with control board 

Part number: WPW10503278

But you should test these first

Part number: WP12729128

Part number: WPW10292244

[Timboroni]

OK - here are some answers:

1) The evaporator fan was and is running. It appears that the "tube" running up to the refrigerator compartment was clogged with ice.

2) There was very little ice on the lower part of the fins. The upper fins, as well as the upper right hand corner where the coils enter and exit the freezer compartment was a block of ice.

Here is a picture of the frozen coils:

 

 

[Jedi Appliance Guy]

The lack of frost on the lower half of the coil is disturbing. 

Back when I was just a young Jedi Apprentice, one of the Masters at the shop sat down with me and asked me if I knew the difference between frost and ice. We talked about it for a little while. He knew it was an important lesson for me to learn if I was ever to become a Jedi.

[16345Ed]

Uh oh, that looks like a sealed system issue. 

Edited April 6, 2018 by 16345Ed

[Jedi Appliance Guy]

( ) kinda agrees

( ) somewhat agrees

(X) strongly agrees 

[Timboroni]

I have to say that the location of the ice bothered me too because it is usually all over the fins. There was also ice on the outside line coming from/to the compressor.

Here is a picture of the back of the fridge. The yellow line marks where there was a block of ice about 6" x 2" x 2". It melted when we unplugged the unit overnight:

And here is a picture without the ice:

[Timboroni]

"Sealed System Issue" = ?

[Jedi Appliance Guy]

https://appliantology.org/topic/67180-its-toast/?do=findComment&comment=388789

[Jedi Appliance Guy]

Seriously though, it doesn't look good. You can put the evaporator cover and rear cover back on and run it overnight. Pull the evaporator cover and take another picture of the coil and let us have a look at it. And start pricing a new refrigerator. 

[CLOWNmfer]

I am interested in  the outcome here..I M GOING TO "LET GO" AND FEEL THE FORCE ON THIS...I think it one of three things...1. defrost timer,  2. defrost heater....or defrost thermostat. The reason I believe it to be something to do with evaporator fan, is that is working once it's thawed, right? So it seems more a control issue, in conjunction with the root cause which is most likely a funky coil. So my question is...can you (when it works) adjust the thermostat and see if you hear the compressor turn off?  also, there should be a way to test the heater, as well as the thermostat...if you have an ohmmeter. But, these cats here know the business better than I...I am just an HVAC tech trying to learn about appliance repair. 

[DiO]

Clip the thermistor (sensor) with the tubing near the defrost thermostat, that should never be hanging. The sealed system is ok because it works fine after you thawed the ice, and the heater works fine also because there's no frost at the lower fins. If the sensor is hanging like that and near the source of the heat, the sensor will opens up prematurely, thus cutting off the heater early, frost slowly builds at the upper part after a few days. Situation like this is sometimes the result of improper sealing of door gasket. Please check the evaporator after 3-5 days if you can see some frost building up. Good luck.

[DiO]

The sensor doesn't cutoff, I mean the defrost cycle ends prematurely. Sensor is a resistor that changes its resistance with the change in temperature, usually NTC thermistor with 5Kohms.

The defrost thermostat is the one cutting off the defrost heater.

[16345Ed]

Do you have a infrared temperature gun?

if so tell us temps of condenser coils

[16345Ed]

3 hours ago, DiO said:

 

Clip the thermistor (sensor) with the tubing near the defrost thermostat, that should never be hanging. T

 

Omg don’t do this!

the thermistor mounts to evaporator cover that’s why it’s just hanging there!!!

[CLOWNmfer]

But Sir, his reasoning makes sense. Clearly the system works, as it works once thawed out. Heater works as only the top is ice covered. And it appears to be hanging (picture) even in the icy one, with a little ice on it.So perhaps he didn't have it mounted correctly when he used it last?

[Timboroni]

The "hanging thermistor" was in place outside of the evaporator cover, underneath it's own little plastic cover. That had to be removed in order to remove the evaporator cover.

[Jedi Appliance Guy]

Greetings Timboroni,

When it is convenient,  get us another picture of your evaporator coil. Don't turn off or unplug the fridge. Just expose the coil and snap the picture. We're interested in the frost pattern. 

May the Force be with you. 

[darren412]

On ‎4‎/‎5‎/‎2018 at 9:32 PM, Timboroni said:

OK - here are some answers:

1) The evaporator fan was and is running. It appears that the "tube" running up to the refrigerator compartment was clogged with ice.

2) There was very little ice on the lower part of the fins. The upper fins, as well as the upper right hand corner where the coils enter and exit the freezer compartment was a block of ice.

Here is a picture of the frozen coils:

 

 

The frozen ice ball on the evaporator lines looks like it may have possibly been hitting the evaporator fan housing as the ice ball expanded and then stopped the evaporator fan and causing the frost on top along with the  no cool situation.  Not positive from the picture but it looks like Its possible that may of happened.  I have seen this frozen ice ball on many of the whirlpool and maytag bottom freezer refrigerators. and they did not have a sealed system issue.   When I have received  a no cool call and the evaporator has been totally blocked and it has that ice ball. I defrost the evaporator and the ice ball and have always just replaced the Jazz board with the thermistor and never got a call back once.  obviously I knew the bi metal and heater were good.  I would defrost everything and run the fridge again to see if the problem returns.  It may have just been a stuck evaporator fan.  If it returns again , in the next couple of weeks if not in a week. take a picture of the evaporator again and send it as Jedi mentioned. It can be re evaluated better that way. I'm leaning more towards 16345eds  diagnosis that its the jazz board causing the problem,  """ if the issue re occurs """.    Hopefully  it will just be the evaporator fan causing the problem for you.   

[Timboroni]

Thanks everyone for your suggestions! 

 So far, everything looks good. I will wait until next weekend, remove the evaporator cover, take a picture and post it here.

[darren412]

6 hours ago, Timboroni said:

Thanks everyone for your suggestions! 

 So far, everything looks good. I will wait until next weekend, remove the evaporator cover, take a picture and post it here.

Only remove it unless you have an issue . No need to do all that work just to open it to find everything is alright.  Wait until you have a cooling issue again. Then open it and take pictures then. You might find that you don’t have any more issues with the fridge from this point on.   Obviously that will be your call .  Good luck

[16345Ed]

4 hours ago, darren412 said:

Only remove it unless you have an issue . No need to do all that work just to open it to find everything is alright.  Wait until you have a cooling issue again. Then open it and take pictures then. You might find that you don’t have any more issues with the fridge from this point on.   Obviously that will be your call .  Good luck

Personally I’d want to know before I loaded it with food again. 

Thats why I’d take a simple temperature check of condenser coils.