Replace LG relay Ebg62325702 with Supco Universal

[Always Affordable Appliance Experts]

Hi I have an LG refrigerator model LFC20770ST with a Ebg62325702 3 terminal relay.  Wires are pink, Blue with stripe and black.  I am wanting to replace the bad relay with a supco push on 1/10th hp universal relay/overload or 3 in 1 hardstart.  From what I understand the black and blue wires are line in and out and pink is capacitor wire although there is no capacitor with this compressor.  I am wondering what the proper configuration would be to hook either of these up.  On the push on relay there are 4 terminals, 2 Labeled L and a double set with a metal jumper spanning them, used with the jumper for no capacitor units.  I am assuming that it would be pink to the jumper and blue and black to the L terminals for Line in and out.  Does this sound right?  And for the blue and black would it matter which to which?  For the 3 in 1 I would assume that it would be blue and black to power wires with pink not connected, is this correct?  Also as a general question, the original relay was blown with a hole in the back side, which caused the control board to blow as well.  This is first time I have seen a relay blow to this degree and first time I have seen one short out the control board and am just wondering if this is common.  Thanks in advance for any help. 

[vee8power]

Repair Clinic says they have the OEM one in stock; that's the one I would use if I were you. Also replace the overload.

[darren412]

First off you should be replacing the start device on the compressor ,If available , with the original replacement compressor start device for your model. The PTC’s. Are rated differently for a reason for different models. Good research will get you the correct replacement start device. Have you checked the compressor to make sure it is at least not bad ? And causing all your problems ? There will be a schematic on the back of the fridge or on top that will give you an idea of some of the wiring you are messing with.  From the sounds of what you are doing you may want to think about brushing up a little more on the procedure you are attempting. Are you a student on this site and do you have a membership.  There’s some valuable insight and techs on this site that can help you if you don’t already have a membership. 

[Always Affordable Appliance Experts]

Ok, I ended up ordering the stock parts overnighted.  I was going to use a universal or a hardstart as a temporary solution until they came in but have decided against it with your advice.  Thanks guys.

[darren412]

Just now, Always Affordable Appliance Experts said:

Ok, I ended up ordering the stock parts overnighted.  I was going to use a universal or a hardstart as a temporary solution until they came in but have decided against it with your advice.  Thanks guys.

Have you checked the compressor also yet ? You need to check that compressor to confirm at the least that it is not bad before you start replacing parts that you have diagnosed as no good. A compressor can check good and still not definitively be ok but if a compressor checks out bad you know it’s no good. You mentioned the control board was also toast on this machine . A bad compressor can damage the control board. I believe there are a couple of videos on this site that will help you on how to check that compressor. Good luck 

[Always Affordable Appliance Experts]

Yes I have checked the compressor, it checks out fine.

[Always Affordable Appliance Experts]

On 5/15/2018 at 11:02 AM, darren412 said:

 A compressor can check good and still not definitively be ok

Can you elaborate on what you mean by this?  I have that in cases of a freon leak a compressor can run constantly causing carbon or deposits to build up, which can result in a restriction after recharging but am curious as to what other issues you might be alluding to.

[darren412]

for instance , there could be a weak piston in the compressor and  it will still cool but have  fluctuating temperatures or low temp readings.  your compressor readings would show positive to an ok compressor. Whirlpool had a bunch of bad compressors in their refrigerators that were testing out positive to be a good compressor but the compressor was actually no good because the pistons were leaking .     That sort of scenario 

[Always Affordable Appliance Experts]

5 minutes ago, darren412 said:

for instance , there could be a weak piston in the compressor and  it will still cool but have  fluctuating temperatures or low temp readings.  your compressor readings would show positive to an ok compressor. Whirlpool had a bunch of bad compressors in their refrigerators that were testing out positive to be a good compressor but the compressor was actually no good because the pistons were leaking .     That sort of scenario 

I assume you Low temp readings in the refrigerator/freezer?  Typically first thing I check with cooling issues is compressor temp with infrared I know that standard operating temp should be around 120. Would there be any difference in compressor temp with an issue such as this?

[darren412]

Yeah the condenser should be 100f  + — 30.   The compressor temp would change slightly with changes in the condenser temps but the condenser temp would be your easiest and quickest  tell all .   I don’t have a lot of confidence in the infared gun checks but I will use it at times.  Point to be made though about the compressor is simple . If it checks bad then you positively know the compressor is bad. But if it checks good it does not factually. Mean it’s ok . It could have an internal issue that can be mis diagnosed. Not too common but it does and has happened.  That’s basically all I was saying you know 

[16345Ed]

6 hours ago, Always Affordable Appliance Experts said:

I assume you Low temp readings in the refrigerator/freezer?  Typically first thing I check with cooling issues is compressor temp with infrared I know that standard operating temp should be around 120. Would there be any difference in compressor temp with an issue such as this?

We use condenser temperature for diagnostics not compressor. 

Compressor is tested via amp draw and resistance on pins. 

[darren412]

When I mentioned temperature readings I meant to say temp readings in the FF compartment not on the actual compressor. In case you thought I was talking about compressor temps . Sorry if that confused things. Good luck  with everything