Whirlpool Dryer Will Not Reignite

[TimBres]

I have a Whirlpool Imperial Series Gas Dryer, Model # LGN2000LW0.  When I start the dryer, the igniter glows orange and starts the flame, which then runs for around 3:30 min to 5:20 min and then cuts out.  I'll have the cycle set for 50 minutes on high heat and the flame never comes back on during the entire cycle (I've sat and listened for the magnet "clicks" and have peered through the hole, too).  This isn't the first time that this has happened, so I have replaced the coils, replaced the thermal fuse and also replaced the cycling thermostat.  It seems like the dryer is doing what it's supposed to do at the beginning.  I have pulled the dryer from the wall, disconnected the exhaust pipe, cleaned the lint trap and have an empty tumbler.  From when I push the start button,  it takes around 25 seconds to ignite the flame and at the 1:45 min. mark the exhaust out of the back will be 117 degrees, at  2:20 min. it's 121 degrees, at 3:35 min. it is 135 degrees.  The flame usually goes out at the 135 degrees area and around 5 min. the exhaust is back to 110 degrees or a bit less.  On one occasion, there was some magnetic "clicking" in irregular patterns and on another occasion, the igniter glowed for a short period, but never lit a flame.  I've tested the igniter and it appeared to be a good reading and it passed visual inspection, too.  Does anyone know what could be the problem?  In summary, the gas flame comes on at the beginning of a cool dryer, runs until it gets to around 135 degrees, turns off, then never comes back on for the remainder of the cycle.  Any help is greatly appreciated.

[16345Ed]

If exhaust duct is clear ( test by unhooking exhaust and running dryer)

you likely need these:Part number: AP3094251

[evaappliance]

3 hours ago, TimBres said:

I have replaced the coils,

With the things he has already done , unless he got a bad set of coils , it will be something strange.  Flame sensor, maybe?

[16345Ed]

13 hours ago, evaappliance said:

With the things he has already done , unless he got a bad set of coils , it will be something strange.  Flame sensor, maybe?

Yep, skipped right over the coil replacement., thanks.

 Next question I’d ask is did he use OEM parts or cheaper aftermarket knockoffs. 

[16345Ed]

And it really needs tested while disconnected from exhaust duct work. 

[TimBres]

Yes, cheap aftermarket knock-offs for the coils and other parts.  I have been doing the testing while disconnected from exhaust duct work.  An odd thing happened today,  there was a lot of irregular rattling just before the flame went out and then about two minutes later, the flame finally reignited and burned for a couple of minutes (then it extinguished and never re-lit).  So, I have no problem igniting at the beginning and the flames turns off when it gets too hot, but doesn't come on (except that one time today) when it gets cool

[16345Ed]

46 minutes ago, TimBres said:

Yes, cheap aftermarket knock-offs for the coils and other parts.  I have been doing the testing while disconnected from exhaust duct work.  An odd thing happened today,  there was a lot of irregular rattling just before the flame went out and then about two minutes later, the flame finally reignited and burned for a couple of minutes (then it extinguished and never re-lit).  So, I have no problem igniting at the beginning and the flames turns off when it gets too hot, but doesn't come on (except that one time today) when it gets cool

Is air blowing strong out back of dryer? Maybe blower not moving air properly?

or those new coils were bad

[TimBres]

yes, blows well.  I replaced the motor and fan not too long ago

[TimBres]

Could it be that the gas valve needs replacing?

[evaappliance]

Valves do fail but in my experiences it is very rare , try the original whirlpool coils 

[LearningTech]

Coils. Oem are best, and  generic are not as bad as they are mad eout to be.

[evaappliance]

some aftermarket stuff is great, even in some cases better that the original , but some things are absolute junk.   just trial and error to find which is better on each part

[LearningTech]

 I have had the after market adjusters fo rkitchen aid dishwashers before thye went back to the metal kit, and. They were better IMO

[TimBres]

Quote

I put some whirlpool coils in and have the same problem....Should I go ahead and put a new gas valve in?

 

[evaappliance]

https://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Thermal-Fuse/WP3392519/2986?modelNumber=LGN2000LW0.      Is this the thermal fuse you put on ?  If not , You need to.   If so you still have a circuit going thru the moter and timer that I would check before getting a valve.  I know all parts are crap nowadays but the valve is still the part that fails the least, so when I’m checking a gas dryer, I check EVERYTHING before replacing it.

[LearningTech]

On 6/7/2018 at 6:55 PM, TimBres said:

put some whirlpool coils in and have the same problem....Should I go ahead and put a new gas valve in?

 You say it cuts out.... put your meter across the flame sensor and see if  it. Changes before or after the gas valve shuts off...

[dwschnelli]

I would suspect the "thermostat" (3403140, actually a high limit TCO) mounted at the base of the heat chimney box. With poor airflow through the dryer, possible due to a poor rear drum seal or any internal blockage, burner heat will open that bimetal fuse, which is a safety and not intended to reset (although I have found that a good hard slap on a concrete floor can restore a tripped bimetal).

Edited June 11, 2018 by dwschnelli
New research

[dwschnelli]

Some research is indicating that part is #w10423382.