LG Washing Machine won't power up after simple repair

[Rob Blogan]

I have an LG WM3250HWA washing machine and the drain pump recently died. I got a new pump and installed it, following this YouTube video. It wasn't hard and other than having to drill out a very stubborn screw on the frame, I didn't run into any significant problems.

But I just finished putting it back together and it won't turn on. It's definitely not the outlet. I've tired the suggestion of holding the Power and/or Pause button for 5 seconds with the unit unplugged. I'm at a loss here and can't believe my bad luck. Does anyone have any ideas?

[john63]

Describe more about the original symptom.

The "washer and the pump recently died"...gives the impression that everything went dead...no lights on the control panel...washer did not respond to input...etc. This in itself points to a different possible cause...other than a drain motor.

[Rob Blogan]

At first, only the drain pump failed. I could turn the washer on and start a load, but would get an error (code OE) later in the cycle. I was also getting a nasty electrical smell.

I replaced the pump. The weird smell was coming from the old pump. I also cleaned out the drain filter and confirmed that there were no blockages or kinks in the drain hose.

But I put it back together and now it won't power up at all.

[john63]

12 minutes ago, Rob Blogan said:

 I could turn the washer on and start a load, but would get an error (code OE) later in the cycle. 

That is a dead ringer for a failed Drain Motor...solved.

Next...

How was the repair performed?

There are 2 possible methods...

1. Tip washer back...and access the Pump Assy from there. Minimal to no disassembly required.

2. Disassembly. Top cover...Control Panel...front cover (which includes door) removed.

If #02...

Verify that all low voltage plugs for the control panel are connected...and fully seated.

Edited July 28, 2018 by john63

[Rob Blogan]

Thanks for your help, John. I used method #2. Could you go into more detail about which plugs to check? I've already checked these connectors behind the control panel. They connected snugly.

[Rob Blogan]

Sorry, meant to say they "are" connected snugly.

[john63]

Yes...those are the plugs/connectors.

Other things to check...

1. Is the wall outlet a GFCI type outlet?  Check the other outlets nearby...sometimes a different outlet will have a GFCI and if "tripped"...will turn off the entire circuit.

 

[john63]

2. Using test meter...verify 120 volts AC at the wall outlet.

 

[john63]

3. Test meter...

Unplug washer...

Pull off the *pink* plug at the Electrical Noise Filter.

This is the component located at the top upper right side of the washer (top cover removed).

Plug in washer.

Test voltage at the pink plug on the Noise Filter for 120 volts AC (not at the plug just removed).

If no power...replace Noise Filter.

 

 

[john63]

4. If power at the Noise Filter...

Unplug washer.

Remove white plastic cover from the Main Board...located at the left rear corner of the washer (snaps off...may need small flat screwdriver).

Plug in washer.

Is the red LED illuminated on the Main Board?

If no...

Replace Main Board.

[Rob Blogan]

It's plugged into the same outlet that was working fine earlier. I plugged in a phone charger, no issues. Using an extension cord I tried plugging the unit into another outlet on a different circuit in my house. Still nothing. So it seems it's definitely the unit itself. Tomorrow I will get a voltage meter and give the other things a try. Thanks!

One other thought - I did accidentally pull lightly on the cable to the control panel during disassembly. Perhaps I should unscrew the back of the control panel and check the connector on the other side?

[john63]

Worth a look...but...most connections at the Display Board are not removable.

At this point...it may be that...the original Drain Motor was "shorted" and damaged the Noise Filter or Main Board.

Basic test meters are available at Harbor Freight...Lowes...Home Depot...Walmart etc. Inexpensive too.

[Rob Blogan]

Ok...

120 volts AC at wall outlet: yes

120 volts at pink plug on noise filter: yes

Reconnected the pink plug, plugged the unit into the wall. Red LED on main board is *not* lit. So I think you are right that the original motor shorted out and damaged the board. It's strange that before I took the washing machine apart to change the pump, it powered on with no trouble. On the other hand, I can't think of how I could possibly have caused the main board to blow while changing out the pump. Can you?

Just want to confirm since I can't find the service manual anywhere (very annoying...) - on this model, should I expect the LED to be lit as soon as the unit is plugged in, without needing to press the power button? I just want to be absolutely sure that there is no chance I accidentally jostled something during the repair.

[john63]

The red LED should illuminate within a few seconds of the washer being plugged in.

It is not necessary to power on the washer for this "test".

Failed Main Board.

[Rob Blogan]

I can't find instructions for this specific model for putting in a new main board, but it doesn't look like a hard job so I'm going to give it a shot. Any particular challenges I should be aware of? Should I be concerned about making the work environment static-free?

[john63]

No special handling concerns...other than unplugging washer.

Tip...

Disconnect all plugs on main board.

There's a single phillips screw at the left rear corner of the washer...remove.

Slide main board to the right.

Slide main board upward...remove.

When installing new main board...be patient with yourself...all 4 tabs on the back of the main board case has to be perfectly aligned with the mounting holes/slots...takes some getting used to doing...

Main board in...slide down...slide left...install screw...reconnect plugs.

[Rob Blogan]

Thanks...I won't be able to do this till September but I will let you know how it goes! (I ordered the part on Monday from Sears Parts Direct and paid fifty bucks shipping for it to be here today...and turns out they haven't even shipped it yet. Ridiculous!)

[john63]

Sears is a sinking ship...

[16345Ed]

17 hours ago, Rob Blogan said:

.I won't be able to do this till September

 

17 hours ago, Rob Blogan said:

paid fifty bucks shipping for it to be here today..

I’m not following this logic?

not going to do Repair for a couple months but paid extra for express shipping?

[Rob Blogan]

I'm leaving town for a month tomorrow. I've got someone staying at my place and wanted them to be able to use the washer, but it'll have to wait till I get back. I can't believe a company would list something as "in stock" and tell me it will arrive in 2 days, and then not bother to tell me that it hasn't shipped yet. They still haven't shipped it.

[Rob Blogan]

Update...I got home from work and lo and behold, the package was on my porch.

Well guys, I've got some bad news.

I installed the new board, it worked beautifully. Tested the new drain pump, all good. But then I moved the washer against the wall and plugged it back into its original outlet.

Now when I said earlier that I was getting 120V AC at the wall, I had moved the washer away from the wall and thus had to plug it into a different outlet from the usual one. So I was testing the latter outlet. I had checked the original outlet prior to buying a multimeter, simply by plugging in a phone charger. It worked fine, so I assumed the outlet was good.

But I have a more complicated problem on my hands, because when I plugged the washer into its original outlet and turned it on, it came on for a few seconds, there was a loud CLICK from the back left where the main board sits, and then it shut off and would not turn on again. I pulled off the cover and checked the fuse with my multimeter...blown. I check the outlet and it reads "1".

This is a job for an electrician, and I've learned an expensive lesson. I don't suppose I can return the new board? Feels disingenuous...

[Rob Blogan]

Another piece of info...check out this blown capacitor on the old board: http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=nb419t&s=9#.W2N7_8Inbmg

[Rob Blogan]

I cranked up the multimeter and tested that outlet again...reading 235 volts.

[Rob Blogan]

(Sorry for the multiple posts, I don't see a way to edit.) The real mystery is that this washing machine has been plugged into that outlet for years with no issues.

[Quick]

2 minutes ago, Rob Blogan said:

I cranked up the multimeter and tested that outlet again...reading 235 volts.

I just read this thread. Yep. That washer would surly tend to go pop feeding it 220. 

Who wired that?!?!