LG WT5170HW No Start No Lights

[WalkGood]

4.5 years old (12/2013) Top loader HE.

No lights, nothing. Just hear relay click on/off once when plugged in or start button pressed. LED on main board is NOT lit. There's a resistor (elevated off board) that gets hot and smokes a bit like a soldering iron. So there's power getting to the main board, I also verified power in an out the filter. There's power on either side of the tubular fuse mounted on the main board,  just for the moment when the relay click-clicks on.

History of problem.

Washer was filling for a load, while I was in the laundry room. Phone rang, so I paused machine so as to hear better. Got involved with call. Machine started to empty water on it's own (default action I have read). I unplugged machine to stop water emptying, that didn't stop it water emptying. Plugged back in and I restarted wash cycle, was filling but water also flowing out discharge hose but not being pumped. Like water was siphoning slowly. Turned OFF washer. Water still siphoning out. So I changed to SPIN ONLY, figuring to reset the problem. That worked fine, water discharged.  Started a new wash cycle with EXTRA RINSE. Water filled fine, was not siphoning out. Seemed fine, washed clothes, rinsed first cycle. Was on the last RINSE cycle with 15 minutes left. Machine froze with display panel lit, showing rinse cycle and 15 minutes left. No buttons worked, tried the PLAY/PAUSE and the ON/OFF. Nothing. Water was NOT coming out the discharge hose. I unplugged machine, waited a bit and plugged back in. Just heard click-click once. No lights, nothing. 

Opened up machine to see main board. LED not lit. Checked the filter voltage in & out. Noted voltage on both sides off aforementioned fuse on main board. Discovered very hot fuse, which gives off wisps of smoke. 

Lid remained locked, had to pop top off, unscrewed the latch to open lid.  Manually scooped out water but there's still some in there. Drum spins freely.  Emptied all water via hoses connected to pump.

I replaced the main board.  Bought new board online.  Washer still doesn't start,  same click-click sound but NO wisp of smoke.  That resistor does NOT get hot on 2nd board.  Re-confirmed voltage out of filter and at the main board.

 

Either I bought a bad board or something else is wrong.    Picture from the interwebz.  black barrel resistor is in lower right of board, just above the white tubular fuse.

 

 

 

Anything else to check that could cause the board to go bad,  or not allow the board to stay powered?

 

 

 

 

 

[16345Ed]

There are so many technical bulletins on LGs. I’d recommend you call a LG certified tech that has access to those bulletins. 

 

Your initial issue sounded like classic too much detergent issue. But no LED on board with verification of power in is a bad board. But like I said so many special bulletins published. 

[16345Ed]

ie there could be a bulletin that says you must always change noise filter when changing boards. 

 

I made that that up for example purposes 

Edited August 9, 2018 by 16345Ed

[WalkGood]

9 hours ago, 16345Ed said:

Your initial issue sounded like classic too much detergent issue.

 

That's a thing? 

[WalkGood]

On 8/8/2018 at 4:18 PM, WalkGood said:

Discovered very hot fuse, which gives off wisps of smoke. 

I made a typo in original post.  Should have been,  "very hot resistor, which gives off wisps of smoke".  Its the raised black barrel resistor in lower right of picture, right above the tubular fuse.

[john63]

On 8/8/2018 at 4:18 PM, WalkGood said:

I replaced the main board.  Bought new board online.  Washer still doesn't start

 

  

 

 

 

 

 

 

Did the control panel illuminate (light up) after the new Main Board was installed?

What is the Serial Number?

[john63]

On 8/8/2018 at 4:18 PM, WalkGood said:

 I unplugged machine to stop water emptying, that didn't stop it water emptying.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Can occur if the drain hose is too low.

The drain hose should be installed in either a standpipe or utilitub...that is the same height as the washer *body* (not the top cover that lifts up).

Additionally...the "gooseneck" (end) section of the drain hose should not be taped or secured...to a standpipe...which would cause continued siphoning.

The ribbed section of the gooseneck has grooves/slots on it...to reduce siphoning.

Sealing/taping/wrapping with an old t-shirt...on the drain hose...can cause problems.

[john63]

On 8/8/2018 at 4:18 PM, WalkGood said:

 Was on the last RINSE cycle with 15 minutes left. Machine froze with display panel lit, showing rinse cycle and 15 minutes left.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Prior to the original Main Board failing...

Did the washer display "uE" and/or "UE" on the control panel?

[WalkGood]

3 hours ago, john63 said:

Did the control panel illuminate (light up) after the new Main Board was installed?

What is the Serial Number?

Of the machine?   306KWHX86105

or did you mean of the new main board?  Where is it located?

[WalkGood]

2 hours ago, john63 said:

Can occur if the drain hose is too low.

The drain hose should be installed in either a standpipe or utilitub...that is the same height as the washer *body* (not the top cover that lifts up).

Additionally...the "gooseneck" (end) section of the drain hose should not be taped or secured...to a standpipe...which would cause continued siphoning.

The ribbed section of the gooseneck has grooves/slots on it...to reduce siphoning.

Sealing/taping/wrapping with an old t-shirt...on the drain hose...can cause problems.

Drain hose is installed and positioned correctly.  Has been for 4.5 years.

 

[WalkGood]

3 hours ago, john63 said:

Prior to the original Main Board failing...

Did the washer display "uE" and/or "UE" on the control panel?

Not recently,  but has happened in the past. 

 

Nothing lit up with new board installed.

[john63]

Appears to be a short somewhere...

I would OHM test the Drain Motor.

Should be 10 to 20 ohms.

 

 

[Appliance tech]

I would suggest replacing the sensor at the bottom of the machine

[john63]

5 minutes ago, Appliance tech said:

I would suggest replacing the sensor at the bottom of the machine

It's a possibilty...

That component is the Hall Effect Sensor (motor sensor).

Tends to become compromised on older LG top load washers...with the software issue (of which this one is).

If shorted...could damage the step-down transformer...which would explain "no lights/no power".

Although...my experience has been that...for something to nuke a new Main Board so fast (instantly)...it is often a short on 120 volt side of things.

 

[WalkGood]

4 hours ago, john63 said:

Appears to be a short somewhere...

I would OHM test the Drain Motor.

Should be 10 to 20 ohms.

 

 

Do you mean the drain PUMP? From which the discharge water comes?   Or something else?  If so where is it what does it look like? 

Wish I had some pictures to guide me.  I tried to get the service manual from LG Customer Service online/chat,  but they said its 25 MB file and it won't email because of size restrictions.  They apparently do not have it for download from a link.  I searched this site but did not find one here either,  unless I just didn't search correctly.

 

 

[16345Ed]

20 minutes ago, WalkGood said:

I searched this site but did not find one here either,  unless I just didn't search correctly.

Technical documents only available to professional technicians that have paid their annual fee. 

[16345Ed]

Btw, yes he means the pump (motor)

 

[WalkGood]

I tried two different meters.  One more expensive says ZERO Ohms!  The cheaper Harbor Freight meter says 11.3 Ohms, sometimes 13 Ohms.  If I spin the impeller, the meter reading jumps much MUCH higher.

 

[john63]

Drain Motor is okay.

Test the fuse on the Main Board...blown?

[WalkGood]

11 hours ago, john63 said:

Drain Motor is okay.

Test the fuse on the Main Board...blown?

 

On 8/8/2018 at 4:18 PM, WalkGood said:

There's power on either side of the tubular fuse mounted on the main board,  just for the moment when the relay click-clicks on.

On 8/8/2018 at 4:18 PM, WalkGood said:

Opened up machine to see main board. LED not lit. Checked the filter voltage in & out. Noted voltage on both sides off aforementioned fuse on main board

 

Unless I'm misinterpreting ,  I think the fuse is NOT blown.

[john63]

Gonna be a tough one...finding the offending "short".

I'd recommend either calling a reputable servicer (online research)...or replacing that washer (cut losses).

[john63]

I had one drive me bonkers.

Turned out to be a dud new Main Board.

Not saying that is the case...but illustrates the difficulty locating the problem.

[WalkGood]

Does the board detect there is a short and then shut down?  Meaning that the board is okay and would power up & work if the short was fixed? 

[john63]

No.

[WalkGood]

On 8/15/2018 at 10:32 AM, john63 said:

No.

no to what?