Jenn Air fridge model JCB2388GRB

[wader072174]

Hello,

I have a Jenn Air fridge that ice maker stopped producing ice. I replaced ice maker with what I thought was correct ice maker (according to part supplier.) part number 4317943nd . The new ice maker would make one batch of ice and then stop. There would be ice in mold but would just stay in there without dumping a second batch. I did some research and discovered that I was given the wrong part number for ice maker. Apparently correct number is D7824706Q. I figured this was issue and ordered this ice maker. Upon installing I got once batch and again ice is in mold but not dumping. I’ve also changed water inlet valve to rule that out. Any help anyone might have on this would be greatly appreciated. I did use jumper upon installation between T and H to make sure motor would advance. Not sure if maybe mold heater isn’t getting energized?? 

Thanks in advance.

Rick

[16345Ed]

Two things to check. Temperature of freezer and the door switch. 

[certified tech group 51]

Just looked at the schematic....I/M is wired to L-1 directly....No switch... I would measure the temperature also....17 deg. ( or  close to it ) to close  the  I/M Thermostat....................If you did a forced harvest, did it fill???  What was the voltage measured at water valve during forced harvest???

[wader072174]

This turned out to be the supplier sending wrong ice maker! Combined with an impatient woman after correct ice maker was installed waiting for her ice! Thanks for the response...

[igloo]

On 8/28/2018 at 5:39 AM, 16345Ed said:

Two things to check. Temperature of freezer and the door switch. 

I installed a D7824706Q modular icemaker that the customer bought himself 6 months ago in a KFC022EVBL1 bottom mount freezer, along with a new water valve, harness and a freezer door switch. Having the door off, the freezer would be at close to room temp. When testing the icemaker at L and N test points, while holding the door switch in OFF position, I could not read 120VAC, got 0VAC. I did get 120VAC at the back wall connector with the door switch OFF and the new harness has continuity at all 4 wires. Would the thermostat being open due to room temp be the cause for not seeing 120V at the L and N test points or is the I/M faulty? The Icemaker timer dial is at around 5 o'clock. The Icemaker switch is on (wire down)

After taking the icemaker out and testing thermostat, heater and timer motor for resistance, I got open for all three.

 

Edited November 27, 2020 by igloo
corrected voltage reading from "open" to 0vac

[16345Ed]

You should get 120v at N and L regardless of temp.