a hotpoint model hss25gftabb

[zippitysplat]

I am having an issue with the defroster cycle starting I have jumped the main defrost relay and the coil got hot and the upper defrost thermostat tripped it off once the coil heated up to the correct temp so I know the coil works and the thermostat work. I also did a resistance test on the 3 thermostats inside the refrigerator they all check out with the correct resistance at the correct temps I believe my issue is with the main board and I don't have the money to replace the entire board so I was wondering if there was a circuit diagram or a way to tell which relay controls the defrost cycle. If I am not able to find one I am tempted to just put in a manual switch to run my own defrost cycles.

 

PS I also used the front panel diagnostic codes to confirm everything is working and when I ran test 14 (the defrost cycle ) the coil did not turn on

[16345Ed]

You said you jumped the relay...

“Ihave jumped the main defrost relay“

That one...

[zippitysplat]

yes, I used a wire to connect the line to the defrost coil which bypasses the relay circuit  this video explains it. I was wondering if there is a place where I can find a circuit board layout or diagram to find the timer or relay so I can test and replace the components on the board 

 

[16345Ed]

2 hours ago, zippitysplat said:

yes, I used a wire to connect the line to the defrost coil which bypasses the relay circuit  this video explains it. I was wondering if there is a place where I can find a circuit board layout or diagram to find the timer or relay so I can test and replace the components on the board 

 

Technical documents on this site only available to paid professional technicians. 

[Budget Appliance Repair]

@16345Ed what @zippitysplat is looking for would not be in the technical documents we have here.

The only manufacture that shows actual circuit board circuits is Samsung and/or LG, none of the domestic appliance manufactures give out circuit board schematics.

[zippitysplat]

Darn because I think I found the damaged relay circuit timer and I priced it out to be a  3 dollar but I need to know the voltage tollarance incase it’s too low and blowed out again or too high and damage something else further down the circuit 

[Inventpeac]

Can't someone at least tell us where the fabled "table2" is that tells codes to run the various diagnostics?  I have same exact problem.  It would be nice if "Someone" could help us out and tell us the relay part number and where it is on the board, at least we could try it.   I'm thinking anything electronic is really just a way to overcharge/rob the consumer,

[Terry Carmen]

5 hours ago, Inventpeac said:

relay part number

Most board failures are from parts in the "less than $2" range, if there was a way to actually diagnose the failure and obtain the correct part.

However unless you can get the part number from the part, you're out of luck.

 

Edited December 25, 2019 by Terry Carmen

[Vance R]

On 9/13/2018 at 12:38 AM, zippitysplat said:

yes, I used a wire to connect the line to the defrost coil which bypasses the relay circuit  this video explains it

Watched your posted video.  Few details to cover

Got this picture of bi-metal from parts select. Notice the numbers l140-30f., this mean the bi-metal opens at 140 dergrees fahrenheit and closes at 30 degree lower or 110 dergrees fahrenheit. This bi-metal is just a safety in case the relay on the board sticks.  The board use a thermistor to control defrost. 

In the video the presenter makes the correct connection to energize the defrost circuit, but make a mistake in plugging connector back on to the board. When the refrigerator is plugged  back the board will energize the relay to turn on the compressor. With the jumper in place both the defrost circuit and compressor will be energized. It will be cooling and defrosting at same time.

More than likely you need the defrost thermistor. You mention checking resistance out the 3 thermostats and they had correct values.  This style of testing is not very accurate.  Also when you run the defrost test from the front, if the thermistor indicates temps are  too high the board won't energize the circuit due to safety concerns.

After replacing the thermistor, double check the compressor/defrost relay joint for cold solder joints or ring cracking.