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Samsung fridge not cooling - Please help!


Recommended Posts

myfridgeneedshelp
Posted

Hi all,

My Samsung side by side fridge/freezer (SR-S20NTD) has stopped cooling. Every few minutes, there is a 'click' followed by a humming noise (pretty sure this is compressor) for about 5 seconds, followed by another 'click'. The lights inside also dim in sync with the 'clicks'. The compressor is also hot to the touch. Things I have done so far:

- Condensor coils confirmed clean

- Condensor fan confirmed functional

- Multimeter test on compressor windings (seems normal)

- Rattle test on start relay (no rattles)

- Multimeter test on start relay (gives about 30 ohm reading)

What I havent done:

- Located a run capacitor. It was not mounted next to the compressor. Not sure if it is hidden away, or if the fridge doesn't have one.

Any assistance would be appreciated, thanks!

  • Replies 11
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Top Posters In This Topic

  • myfridgeneedshelp

    6

  • Rhubarb Tau

    4

  • 16345Ed

    1

  • Kendell

    1

Posted

If the unit is cycling on the overload, only likely two possibilities are a bad start device or a bad compressor. Less likely, could be a restriction in the sealed system, but either a restriction or a locked compressor would both be expensive repairs, and require a professional. I'd recommend looking at the start device.

You could just replace the start device (they're pretty inexpensive) and see what happens. Three possible outcomes:

  1. Compressor doesn't run immediately after start device replacement(indicates locked compressor).
  2. Compressor runs initially after replacement, but hum-click returns in days or weeks (high compressor load is damaging start devices, compressor needs to be replaced).
  3. Compressor starts, runs, and continues to run for a long and happy service life (indicates the start device failed, no compressor problems)

If you want an immediate answer whether the problem is the compressor or the start device itself, you'll have to measure the amp-draw of the compressor with a clamp meter. If current draw is more than about 1.5 amps after the compressor has started and run for ~ 5min. , the compressor's days are numbered.

I usually install a hard-start kit temporarily to get the compressor started (if it can be); they deliver a lot more starting torque, and the wiring makes it easier to get a clamp meter on the compressor wiring. Supco's SPP5 is an example.

Good Luck!

myfridgeneedshelp
Posted

Got it, thank you very much for your response. I don't have a hard start kit or a clamp meter handy, so I might go with replacing the start relay first. Does it matter which one I replace it with, or can I just get a similar one from eBay? If so, what kind of specifications would I be looking for? (I have found one website which sells the original, but it is quite expensive). Have we also ruled out the run capacitor as a potential problem?

Posted (edited)

Use original parts 

Run Capacitor rarely fail

Edited by 16345Ed
Posted

Agreed, use the original part.

Is this an Australian model? The model # doesn't come up on Samsung's factory site, can you post a picture of the model/serial tag?

Does the original start device have a part number printed or stamped on it, something like DA##- ##### ?

Posted
6 hours ago, 16345Ed said:

Run Capacitor rarely fail

I wouldn't suspect the run cap, if this unit uses one (again, couldn't find research based on that model #), but if find it, you can test it with a multimeter on the ohms setting. check resistance between the two terminals, ohms should start low and climb steadily until infinite. Reverse your leads, and should see the same thing, low or negative resistance climbing steadily until infinite.

myfridgeneedshelp
Posted

Okay, will use original part. Yes, it is an Australian model. I can't work out how to upload a picture, but details from the label are:

Model: SR-S20NTD

S/No: 738343CT 100087 N

DA68-00886A

The circuit diagram shows that there is a run cap, however I believe it is wire into behind a plastic panel which uses security torx screws - and I can't get in.

Can a start relay still be broken if it doesn't rattle or show any other signs of damage (e.g. burn, scorch marks on outside)?

Posted

Yes a start device can fail even if it doesn’t rattle. I would definitely replace start device first

myfridgeneedshelp
Posted

Ok. On my start relay, there was also a small white piece (which connects to the top prong on the compressor) - I think this is an overload protector.. Can this part be broken as well? because if I purchase a new start relay, it doesn't come with that piece. 

Posted

Yep, definitely replace the overload as well. Usually you can find the complete start device, including start relay and overload as one assembly pretty reasonably, but I can't seem to come up with any parts research, maybe our Samsung account is limited to domestic models.

Is there an appliance parts house near you that could help you with the research?

myfridgeneedshelp
Posted

Ok, sure. Have found a Samsung supplier in Aus for parts. Will keep you updated on how it goes after replacing relay and overload.

  • 2 weeks later...
myfridgeneedshelp
Posted

Hey everyone. I replaced the start relay and overload protector today. Unfortunately, no luck. The symptoms still remain with the click, five second compressor hum, click. Running out of options.. I'm figuring it's either a toasted compressor, or potentially run capacitor? What do you guys think? New fridge time, or is there still something else I should try?

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