GE Dryer

[Richland]

So, I have a GE Dryer that will not turn on.  History.  Turned the Start switch and the knob came off while the rotary start switch feel into the dryer control panel.  Took the backing off and recovered the start switch.  Turned the start switch on but now I get nothing.  Noticed burn marks on two of the switch leads.  I replaced the start switch but that did not help.  I have 120 volts to the start switch.  I have 240 and 120 coming into the dryer from the power cord.  No obstructions in the vents.  Thought maybe the thermal fuse, but how do you test that.  Currently I have the dryer disassembled with the drum out.  Model # DBSR463EG7WW.  Any thought out there.  Thanks

[Ian B]

This unit doesn’t have a thermofuse. All the thermostats on this model are inside where the heater is. You probably see three thermostats on the heater. Ohm those out with at least 1 lead off each thermostat and see if you have resistance. I know this may sound funny but what is the condition of the knob for the timer? The knob may be moving freely but not turning the timer stem. 

Some ge dryers have a fuse next to the power cord junction box. Ohm this out and see if it’s open or not. That’s the best information I can give you with what you provided. Good luck and let us know if this helped. 

[Richland]

Thanks Ian B for the quick response.  I did an Ohm check on the three thermostats on the ring around the heater coils.  The one on the right as you are looking at the back of the dryer did not show resistance.   But I have to ask... what do you mean by "at least one lead off each thermostat"?  Thanks again, much appreciated. 

[Ian B]

That would be the hi limit. It’s always good to isolate the circuit meaning taking one of the wires/lead off the thermostat to check the resistance. Depending on how it’s wired, you’re reading the resistance of the whole circuit. When you take one of the wires off, then you’re just reading the resistance of the thermostat. 

[darren412]

11 hours ago, Richland said:

Thanks Ian B for the quick response.  I did an Ohm check on the three thermostats on the ring around the heater coils.  The one on the right as you are looking at the back of the dryer did not show resistance.   But I have to ask... what do you mean by "at least one lead off each thermostat"?  Thanks again, much appreciated. 

First make sure your checking the line voltage properly.  you should be getting 120 volts on each leg  and you should be getting  240 volts across both terminals at the terminal block of the dryer.  homeowners make the mistake of just checking the both legs 1 at a time and then not checking both legs at the same time.  This is important getting a 240 volt reading  from both legs at the same time.  If your not getting a 240 volt reading off both legs, then there is a problem at the breaker if your readings are coming from the dryer's terminal block.  Some thermostats can be normally open , keep that in mind.  look at the schematics and make sure the one in question is not normally open .  By passing a normally open t-stat during diagnosis can throw you off  Richland.  I rarely find the thermostats on these GE dryers failing  But  they are on the punch list for possibly failing during diagnosis. what I do always run into is   1) a bad centrifugal switch on their motors.  2) A bad belt switch or the pulley rod not engaging the belt switch. The belt switch is there to shut down the dryer in case the belt breaks off the drum while its running. You mentioned you had the drum out so that belt pulley switch will not be engaged  and the motor will not start during testing. You have to by pass or trick the belt switch into thinking its engaged in order to get line voltage through the motor.  The belt switch is located at the bottom left side of the dryer next to the motor. Tight spot and hard to see at first just follow the belt pulley rod all the way down to the side of the motor. 3) A bad start switch   4) I also find the weak plastic tabs that hold the controls onto the inside of the console always breaking and causing the switches to fall into the console.  Kids will constantly over turn the start switches and strip the knobs.   As Ian B mentioned , check the knobs too Richland.   You did mention the start switch had fallen into the console. If its a plastic console and not metal , the tab probably broke off .  Not sure what to think about the start switch being burned at both contacts though ?  you can ohm out the start switch to make sure that's working properly.    If its a bad centrifugal switch on the motor , you will have to by the complete motor in this case .  To test the centrifugal switch, I will always open the door  then push in the door switch  and  then turn the drum quickly from the inside baffles in its normal rotation .  Have someone hold the start switch on .  If the motor kicks and the drum spins normally, that is a tell tale sign of a bad motor centrifugal switch.  Quite common on these models.      I'm thinking you may have hindered your diagnosis of the problem once you removed the drum if you are not aware of that belt switch.  either way  As  Ian B   had mentioned  , with the information you have given hopefully this will help and its just a bad thermostat and start switch.    If it does turn out to be just a thermostat and bad start switch, make sure you also clean the vent system out as a bad vent system can trigger a fuse to blow.    please return to this post what the cause was for no power to your dryer when you diagnose it.      Good luck

Edited October 24, 2018 by darren412

[darren412]

On 10/23/2018 at 7:07 PM, Richland said:

So, I have a GE Dryer that will not turn on.  History.  Turned the Start switch and the knob came off while the rotary start switch feel into the dryer control panel.  Took the backing off and recovered the start switch.  Turned the start switch on but now I get nothing.  Noticed burn marks on two of the switch leads.  I replaced the start switch but that did not help.  I have 120 volts to the start switch.  I have 240 and 120 coming into the dryer from the power cord.  No obstructions in the vents.  Thought maybe the thermal fuse, but how do you test that.  Currently I have the dryer disassembled with the drum out.  Model # DBSR463EG7WW.  Any thought out there.  Thanks

so How did you do.  Have you diagnosed the problem you were having with your dryer ???

[Richland]

Unfortunately I have not been able to find the problem in this dryer.  Followed your advice as closely as I could but nothing registered as faulty.  I still have the dryer but will be re-tracing my steps again this weekend.  Thanks for all the help and advice I learned a lot so this is a positive learning experience for me.

[Quick]

On 10/23/2018 at 7:44 PM, Richland said:

did an Ohm check on the three thermostats on the ring around the heater coils.  The one on the right as you are looking at the back of the dryer did not show resistance.

What am I missing here? If your standing in the front of the dryer looking in and the part on the right on top of the heater is open replace it. If it fires up make sure you are moving plenty of air and the dryer cycles on the operating Tstat...

Edited October 29, 2018 by Quick
My brain don't work all the time.

[Ian B]

This unit may have a 30 amp fuse by the terminal block where the power cord is. I can’t find it on the parts breakdown. Ohm the fuse out. Check the door switch and make sure it’s not broken. Ohm out the belt switch as well. The thermostats in this dryer isn’t going to affect on how the unit starts. It doesn’t have a thermofuse.  I would check those 3 things. If the knob is ok as well as the start switch then you can rule those out. Good luck 

[darren412]

On 10/29/2018 at 11:06 AM, Richland said:

Unfortunately I have not been able to find the problem in this dryer.  Followed your advice as closely as I could but nothing registered as faulty.  I still have the dryer but will be re-tracing my steps again this weekend.  Thanks for all the help and advice I learned a lot so this is a positive learning experience for me.

Rich  Just take your time if your able. and take this as a learning experience.  Your just missing something here during your diagnosis process. this stuff can get overwhelming if your tackling something like this for the first time if you never ran into an issue like yours before.   I get it , and this is how we all learned in the beginning at times.  Just don't over think the process and carefully read and memorize the suggestions on this site.  You lost power some where along the line voltage and or your common wire.  Check one wire at a time for the line voltage  and or your common  with your meter along with following the schematics wiring diagram.   ok.     If you are not a member already with Appliantology !    You would benefit tremendously if you joined the schooling ranks and  downloading benefits of this site.  You would learn to read schematics and troubleshooting techniques for exactly what you are dealing with right now.  You will learn the difference  between ohms  testing and continuity testing which would help you greatly to swiftly get you through what your dealing with right now in this dryer.      Its short money and the return is priceless Rich.  Good luck with your testing still  and go over it again and don't rush.  If you make a mistake it will be because you were rushing it.  Sometimes it is something as simple as you fixed it and when you put it back together , you forgot to reconnect the door switch back up again.            Good Luck