GE Profile PFE29PSDASS, won't cool

[Kol]

So my GE fridge won't cool. It has an inverter compressor system with an inverter board.

I have tested the resistance of the coils on the compressor, they all measure 6.5ohms. There is 120vac coming into the compressor also. The control voltage off of the board is holding steady at 2.65vdc. I don't know if there is an issue with a temp sensor or if the motherboard needs to be replaced. Visual inspection doesn't show any issues. Fans run with no issues and there is no frost on the coils.

Control board for reference: https://www.appliancepartscompany.com/product/17842885

Suggestions of more to check or just replace the main board?

[16345Ed]

14 hours ago, Kol said:

So my GE fridge won't cool. It has an inverter compressor system with an inverter board.

I have tested the resistance of the coils on the compressor, they all measure 6.5ohms. There is 120vac coming into the compressor also. The control voltage off of the board is holding steady at 2.65vdc. I don't know if there is an issue with a temp sensor or if the motherboard needs to be replaced. Visual inspection doesn't show any issues. Fans run with no issues and there is no frost on the coils.

Control board for reference: https://www.appliancepartscompany.com/product/17842885

Suggestions of more to check or just replace the main board?

I’d test the sensor, but for you might be easier to just replace the sensor(s) cheaper than replacing board. 

Its either a sensor or board, the signal voltage should be higher seeing that the unit is above temperature. 

[ol_lonely]

wow, I have exact scenario, last night. signal voltage is supposed to be 4-6 as I've read, so I assume it's a board since I have under 3. didn't think the sensors can alter the signal voltage?  P.S. I didn't see a J15 connector, stops at J14. 

Edited December 4, 2018 by ol_lonely
more info

[ol_lonely]

sensor may be cheaper , but need to disassemble freezer to access. maybe I can check from board. does this have a tech sheet behind the kickplate? 

 

[Kol]

I had the GE Repair guy come out. He checked everything and found the same information and said it was the main board. If it isn't putting out around 5v when calling for cooling it is the main board. The temp sensor doesn't alter the voltage like you mentioned.

[16345Ed]

11 hours ago, ol_lonely said:

sensor may be cheaper , but need to disassemble freezer to access. maybe I can check from board. does this have a tech sheet behind the kickplate? 

 

Yes test from board. Could be there or under a hinge cover. 

Edited December 5, 2018 by 16345Ed

[ol_lonely]

no diagram that I could find. downloaded one here. replaced board, still 2.7 VDC. replaced sensors, still 2.7 VDC signal voltage. compressor ohms out fine, about 6 ohms each pin/pin . strange thing was, I put a new sensor into the plug on board to simulate a sensor replaced, and the compressor came on, replaced the sensors on evaps, and nothing. can't imagine a broken harness on a 6 year old frig that has worked perfect til this week.  

[Kol]

Which sensors did you replace?

[16345Ed]

On 12/4/2018 at 9:42 AM, Kol said:

I had the GE Repair guy come out. He checked everything and found the same information and said it was the main board. If it isn't putting out around 5v when calling for cooling it is the main board. The temp sensor doesn't alter the voltage like you mentioned.

So ask him how the board knows cabinet temperature and how it determines compressor run speed. 

[Kol]

1 minute ago, 16345Ed said:

So ask him how the board knows cabinet temperature and how it determines compressor run speed. 

The temp sensors sends a voltage to the main board which changes due to the change in resistance on the temp sensor which is fed as an input into the CPU, which in turn changes the voltage of the control signal going to the inverter board. If it was the temp sensor then the system wouldn't be calling for cooling i.e. the condenser fan wouldn't trigger, but because the system was calling for cooling and the voltage off the board was 2.5v then it was the main board. If it didn't try to call for cooling then it might have been the temp sensor. The CPU is getting the right voltage input, just sending out the wrong signal voltage to trigger the compressor.

That was how he explained it when I asked him if it might be the temp sensor. Sound wrong?

We will see when the new board gets here. Keep in mind ol_lonely has a similar issue with a different fridge so his issue is probably different than the measurements I am getting.

[16345Ed]

16 minutes ago, Kol said:

The temp sensors sends a voltage to the main board which changes due to the change in resistance on the temp sensor which is fed as an input into the CPU, which in turn changes the voltage of the control signal going to the inverter board. If it was the temp sensor then the system wouldn't be calling for cooling i.e. the condenser fan wouldn't trigger, but because the system was calling for cooling and the voltage off the board was 2.5v then it was the main board. If it didn't try to call for cooling then it might have been the temp sensor. The CPU is getting the right voltage input, just sending out the wrong signal voltage to trigger the compressor.

That was how he explained it when I asked him if it might be the temp sensor. Sound wrong?

We will see when the new board gets here. Keep in mind ol_lonely has a similar issue with a different fridge so his issue is probably different than the measurements I am getting.

My understanding is the main board determines how strong a signal to send invertor based on sensor data. 

Regardless you put a new board in and it didn’t help you said correct?

Another possibility is a DC loading down issue. 

Any failing DC load could be impacting board output. Are these evaporator fans DC or AC in this unit? I haven’t pulled tech documents. 

Edited December 6, 2018 by 16345Ed

[Kol]

The other guy put in a new board and it didn't help him. I am still waiting for my new board to arrive. I wasn't going to pay the GE Repair man $500 for a new board.

[Kol]

Well, I got a new main board....didn't work. Guess I need to test the temp sensor also

 

[Kol]

As an update, got the new main board, didn't work. Replaced the inverter board, worked. Put back in the original main board. Still works.

Whole issue turned out to be the inverter board.

[16345Ed]

Strange typical signal to inverter is 3-12VDC. 

A warm refrigerator should be sending closer to 12VDC which tells inverter to run at max speed. 

You kept say voltage was less than 3 volts, what is it now?

[Kol]

I don't know. The service port on the compressor broke trying to replace the inverter board so waiting till Monday for someone to fix it and recharge the system.

[16345Ed]

4 hours ago, Kol said:

I don't know. The service port on the compressor broke trying to replace the inverter board so waiting till Monday for someone to fix it and recharge the system.

Oops

[Coley]

I have this same problem!! Dang service port is directly in front of inverter and I can't figure out how to remove it!!

[pstruhs]

I have the same problem need to remove the inverter and replace it, but no way to get the inverter out,  anyone have any tips on how to do this besides breaking the service port on the compressor?

[McG&Son]

I just changed out one of those inverter boards and I know this post is old but no one responded. So at any rate, just unclip the feet on the compressor and it will be able to be moved up ever so slightly but just enough to wiggle out the inverter board. Then of course be sure to remember to put the clips back on. 

[bkane]

On 11/30/2019 at 1:58 PM, McG&Son said:

I just changed out one of those inverter boards and I know this post is old but no one responded. So at any rate, just unclip the feet on the compressor and it will be able to be moved up ever so slightly but just enough to wiggle out the inverter board. Then of course be sure to remember to put the clips back on. 

Thanks for this post you saved me today!

[ol_lonely]

On 12/4/2018 at 8:55 AM, ol_lonely said:

wow, I have exact scenario, last night. signal voltage is supposed to be 4-6 as I've read, so I assume it's a board since I have under 3. didn't think the sensors can alter the signal voltage?  P.S. I didn't see a J15 connector, stops at J14. 

sorry, I think I responded to this in another thread last year, but it turned out to be a refrigerator evaporator fan motor. it may need a Service Update module (SUM)WR98R882802 although I think if you use the latest fan motor the SUM isn't needed? may depend on serial #