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  • Upcoming Events

    • 18 January 2025 03:00 PM Until 04:00 PM
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      All Appliantology tech members are invited to join in the conversation for all things Appliantological: bidness, customers, tools, troubleshooting, flavorite brewski, whatever. Webcams and microphones are open and live!
      This event is also a great time for any students at Master Samurai Tech to bring any and all questions about the coursework. We're happy to walk through any concepts you're having trouble with. Think of it like office hours with your teachers. 
      Also, follow this Calendar Event so you'll get notified of new posts here. Look for the "Follow" button either at the top of the topic on desktop or below the topic on mobile.
      Who: This workshop is only available to tech members at Appliantology.
      When: Saturday, January 18 @10:00 AM Eastern Time.
      Where: Online via Zoom
      How:
      Click here to go to the forum topic with the registration link. If you're interested, register now. Arrive a couple minutes early to make sure your connection is working. Set a reminder for yourself for this workshop so you don’t miss it.  And check out past workshops here: https://appliantology.org/announcement/33-webinar-recordings-index-page/

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi folks, this is a strange one. This started for no reason this week.

We have a Frigidaire gas/range, Model: FGF367CGSC.
When we turn on a gas top burner, the Door Lock cycle begins and doesn't end (open/close,open/close....). That is the door lock motor gets engaged, slowly slides the lock into the lock position, then retreats back to the unlock position and this cycles continues.

What on earth could be causing this? and how do I fix it?
Cheers,

Posted

If it started for no reason. ( That is you never put it in self clean) I'd think you have a haunted control board.

PHD in PCM says replace the PCB.

  • Like 2
Posted

Thanks Quick,

Correct, I never put it in self-clean. some questions:

  1. pardon my ignorance but what is "PHD in PCM..."?
  2. In case I inadvertently put it in self clean but don't recall, would this make a difference in the recommended solution?
  3. Someone mentioned it could be a loose/bare wire from the burner switches/knobs interfeering and starting the motor... since it only occurs when the stovetop burners are turned on.

PS. The locking mechanism doesn't engage for only one cycle. Turns out it continues endlessly until i either disconnect the stove or open the door, press the door switch, force an full close/open cycle then close the door.

Posted

Means I have a PhD in being a parts changing monkey.

Sounds like a borked board with a stuck relay to me. 

Who knows for sure?  It's haunted.

 

Posted

Hahaha! got it, thanks.

If anyone has other suggestions to this oddball problem, I'm all ears.

Cheers,

Posted

What quick said will be right ?

  • Like 1
Posted
20 hours ago, ggg said:
  • 20 hours ago, ggg said:

     In case I inadvertently put it in self clean but don't recall, would this make a difference in the recommended solution?

    Yes I suppose it could. Find the latch motor and check the two micro switches mounted on it.

  • Inadvertently? Hum. That's even more creepy.

  •  

 

Posted
34 minutes ago, Quick said:

Yes I suppose it could. Find the latch motor and check the two micro switches mounted on it.

thanks Quick... Good. I'll check this.

By "inadvertently", I meant, it's possible I pressed the self-clean button by error. Our panel is no longer legible due to the deterioration of the clock overlay over time/use.  It's $100 for this part here in Canada so we haven't replaced it. the downside is we can no longer read most of the labels. Poor engineering of this part IMO. \

Posted

Most likely the board but could be a faulty switch on the door lock mechanism. Looked up the parts they are both no longer available. 

Posted

Thanks for looking up the parts Ian. Much appreciated.

When in this situation, do folks simply toss their oven?

Posted

Check eBay or online for parts if you’d like it repaired. Other than that you’d have to replace the oven. 

Posted

Exorcism...

  • Like 1
Posted
On 1/12/2019 at 3:46 PM, ggg said:

... Our panel is no longer legible ... we can no longer read most of the labels. Poor engineering of this part IMO. \

 I agree with you wholeheartedly ggg.

But on the other hand it may be, "great"engineering- if it's intentional/planned obsolescence.

 In which case it ought to be mean jail time! At any rate, if you can't find the parts to fix it; I hope you're not too attached to it and are glad to get a newer one. 

Posted

:)

Yes Bintiwangu, built-in obsolescence is a short-term view adopted by some companies... customers eventually catch on and switch brand. "Once bitten twice shy" comes to mind.

Oddly, the issue hasn't reoccurred. I'm truly stumped. I haven't done anything except gently moved the oven to unplug it. Perhaps enough to jiggle a wire? Who knows?

I'll be using the oven tonight so we'll see if the mystery returns.

Posted

If it happens again and you never use the self cleaning option I suggest you simply disconnect the  wires to the small

motor that pushes a bar to lock the door. This way it will not happen again for sure. Cheap solution just make

sure to insulate the 2 wires thoroughly!!!!

 

Posted

Thanks Strumpfman... wouldn't you know it, it occurred again this morning, out of the blue, I hadn't event touched the appliance in any way.

I like your suggestion though. As obvious as it is, I hadn't thought of it. Thanks for not assuming I would know. Much appreciated.

If it happens one more time, and there are not other suggestions, that's what I'll do as I don't expect to use the self-cleaning feature.

Cheers,
G

Posted

Hi folks,

The issue persists I have more info.

I have removed the back panels and inspected the wires, circuit board, all looks OK. I disconnected/reconnected most wires and harnesses, to ensure good contact,

Problem continued so I tried to resort to what Strumpfman suggested. I disconnected a lock motor wire. However this is not a solution because the oven still thinks it's in Lock mode, as indicated on the panel. In this mode, we can not use the oven.

My next step was to try opening the top to see if any wires are frayed/touching others as suggested above. In order to do this, I must unscrew three small screws per burner. They are corroded and when trying to unscrew the first of 12 (3 per burner), it broke. I imagine each will break if I try the others.

I'm at a loss.

Any ideas? I'd had to have to dish out some $1500 for a new range. Everything else works on the oven.

Cheers,

G

 

Posted

Have you changed the board?

Posted

Hi Ian,

No, it's too costly with no guarantee that this is the problem. 

Posted

As we stated before, more than likely the board if all the wiring is ok. 

Posted

 I understand. But in my case because I can't check the wiring under the elements, it's too risky for the cost. If the board was $25 it would be a different story but we're talking at least a couple hundred dollars even more in Canadian dollars.

 at the moment I disconnected the motor because if connected it continually cycles through. It no longer stops.  this means we can no longer use the oven as the range thinks it's in lock mode.

 I can get I can get a newer, used oven for about $200. I may just go this way... And heave this to the junk pile.

Posted

Have you checked the actual lock motor and two cam switches on the lock motor assembly?

I've seen insulation from mice getting into the range be pulled in between the cam and switch lever not letting switch actuate so it keeps trying to unlock and running the motor.

You don't have to remove the top and worry about breaking all the burner screws off to get to the lock motor and cam switches - just pull the range out and remove the rear panel to access lock motor assembly.  Looking at your wiring diagram it looks like your range only uses two of the three cam switches on the lock motor assembly.

Part number: 5304449471

Part number: 5304449471

  • Like 1
Posted

 thanks so much for thanks so much for your suggestion and trying to help. Much appreciated.

 I had to look I had to look and the motor cam switches appear to be functioning correctly. I will add a photo shortly...  can't seem to be allowed to do it for my phone. There appears to be no obstructions and I do hear them click when the disc protrusions hit them as expected. Also when I close them using a screwdriver.

  when the lock cycle is supposed to be completed with the lock in the open position, it very briefly stops then I hear a click from the control board and the cycle begins again. I'm not sure if this helps any.

Posted

Hmmm... the website doesn't seem to allow me to upload/display images unless it's a link.

The image wasn't critical though.

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