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  • Upcoming Events

    • 18 January 2025 03:00 PM Until 04:00 PM
      2  
      All Appliantology tech members are invited to join in the conversation for all things Appliantological: bidness, customers, tools, troubleshooting, flavorite brewski, whatever. Webcams and microphones are open and live!
      This event is also a great time for any students at Master Samurai Tech to bring any and all questions about the coursework. We're happy to walk through any concepts you're having trouble with. Think of it like office hours with your teachers. 
      Also, follow this Calendar Event so you'll get notified of new posts here. Look for the "Follow" button either at the top of the topic on desktop or below the topic on mobile.
      Who: This workshop is only available to tech members at Appliantology.
      When: Saturday, January 18 @10:00 AM Eastern Time.
      Where: Online via Zoom
      How:
      Click here to go to the forum topic with the registration link. If you're interested, register now. Arrive a couple minutes early to make sure your connection is working. Set a reminder for yourself for this workshop so you don’t miss it.  And check out past workshops here: https://appliantology.org/announcement/33-webinar-recordings-index-page/

Recommended Posts

Posted

@ggg Man you still messing with this thing. Go back please and double ck your model number. 

I'll have a look for you when I get back later this evening.

Posted

LOL, Thanks Quick. Bear with me as I'm not an appliance repair person. :)

The verified model number is:
FGF367CGSC

Cheers!

Posted

@ggg Remove the back top rear control cover. Looking at the control from the back you should see 5 spade terminals with 5 wires attached across the bottom. Counting from left to right unplug the 4th wire. E4 

Tape the end of the wire so it won't touch metal somewhere and create a short. Do this when it's unlocked and unplugged!

Remember your board is haunted. So no telling what it may do next.

Posted

Hey Quick,

You're a genius! It worked!

Since it was stuck in the cycle and never "unlocking," disconnecting E4 stopped the motor but kept the oven in "locked" mode. This meant oven functions (bake/broil) would not work.

However your key phrase " Do this when it's unlocked and unplugged!" led me to wait for that fraction of a second, at the end of the cycle, when the door was ever so briefly "unlocked"... at this time I promptly released the door switch and had it in "unlock" mode. I then disconnected E4 and everything works as expected. We have no self-clearing function but never used it anyhow as we clean by hand infrequently so no biggie.

So thanks for the exorcism on our oven... we're happy, baking, broiling and ovening lol.

Much gratitude to you Quick and everyone who chipped in to help.

G

Posted

Good deal. You're welcome.

It's still haunted. I couldn't sleep in a house with a range like that.

All the best to you.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Oh dear! I jumped the gun, the problem still persists. Ghosts are playing with me.

If you feel confident that the board is at fault, I'd be willing to give replacing it a try.

Do you happen to know if this part would be compatible?

Cheers!

https://www.kijiji.ca/v-view-details.html?adId=1374651270&requestSource=b

Posted

@ggg Seriously? If that's the case you have a bad door switch. Good heavens. Your door switch is haunted.

Posted

You don't think it could be the board?

This evening, we turned on the "Bake"... it ignited, started to bake... then after a few minutes, with no one near the stove, some clicking sound came from the "board" and the oven went off.

The timer continued to count down. Re-instated Bake mode, ... a few seconds... click click, off.

Chicken pot pie went into the microwave.

Board that I linked to in previous reply or... shop for new/used oven?

 

Posted

PS? door switch doesn't seem to be "loose" at all nor does it seem "touchy". It needs to be depressed significantly to engage, as it should....

More info in case this helps with the diagnosis.

 

Posted

   

@ggg

Now hang on? I thought you meant the lock motor was running? 

 

Posted

Sorry for the confusion Quick... no no lock motor. This one has been quiet since disconnecting wire number 4

Posted

@ggg  Well GG I would sure be speculating the board is at fault for not allowing your oven to come on. Odds are that's your problem. 

But without a little trouble shooting no way to know for positive. 

Do you have or know how to use a volt ohm meter?

Posted

Thanks Quick... Yes I do have a voltmeter and know fairly well how to use it.

However can I first have your opinion on the board I mentioned? These used boards are rarely on sale at a reasonable price and if this particular one isn't compatible, I'll go with the final plan of looking for a used stove.

Posted
4 minutes ago, ggg said:

However can I first have your opinion on the board I mentioned?

I looked at it. Say's in the disclosure it's off a Whirlpool. I would not use that.

Go to the back of the board. Set volt meter to measure volts AC. Attach one probe on E5 and the other probe on E2 and turn on the oven. You should read 120 or so. If you don't you know you have a bad board.

Posted

Thanks for your input and clear directions Quick. In that case I won't bother testing the board as such a typical board around the price of a used stove.

Final conclusion: We'll look for a replacement stove.

Thanks again for all your support. :)

Posted
11 minutes ago, ggg said:

Final conclusion: We'll look for a replacement stove.

Case closed. 

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