Jump to content
Click here to check out this guide

FAQs | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Contact


DISCLOSURE: We may earn a commission when you use one of our coupons/links to make a purchase.
  • Upcoming Events

    • 01 February 2025 03:00 PM Until 04:00 PM
      2  
      All Appliantology tech members are invited to join in the conversation for all things Appliantological: bidness, customers, tools, troubleshooting, flavorite brewski, whatever. Webcams and microphones are open and live!
      This event is also a great time for any students at Master Samurai Tech to bring any and all questions about the coursework. We're happy to walk through any concepts you're having trouble with. Think of it like office hours with your teachers. 
      Also, follow this Calendar Event so you'll get notified of new posts here. Look for the "Follow" button either at the top of the topic on desktop or below the topic on mobile.
      Who: This workshop is only available to tech members at Appliantology.
      When: Saturday, February 1 @10:00 AM Eastern Time.
      Where: Online via Zoom
      How:
      Click here to go to the forum topic with the registration link. If you're interested, register now. Arrive a couple minutes early to make sure your connection is working. Set a reminder for yourself for this workshop so you don’t miss it.  And check out past workshops here: https://appliantology.org/announcement/33-webinar-recordings-index-page/

Kenmore side by side freezer door display dead


Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a kenmore refrigerator model 110.51133213 manufactured 9/2016 which the display board died. So did the ice maker and the dispenser. Upon investigation I saw that the wiring harness that runs up the bottom of the freezer door had several wires severed(5) I removed the door and reattached all the wires. This is a ridiculous design to have wires torque the way they do when you open and close the freezer door. This fridge is just a little over 2 years old. Does anyone know if the harness is available? Everything  is working as far as the display goes. I have yet to hook up the water supply to see if the ice maker works. 

Posted

You have wrong model number, it should be 106.51133213

The only way to get a new harness, (which will be the same crappy design and probably break again in a couple years), is to replace the complete freezer door for a price of a new door, ($600 - $650 Plus shipping).

Posted

Budget is 100% correct. If its not in the budget to replace the door like budget has mentioned and your qualified to do this , then I would shut the power off and  solder each wire back together and keep each wire that is soldered, as close as possible to the same length.  If your capable of that. That will get you thru for a little or a long while , till you can come up with a plan .  Its a crap shoot as to how long these wires will stay repaired as budget had also mentioned. It will last all though,  according to how well you solder and tape and close up the wires together.  If the wires are going through the bottom hinge at the kick plate , you may want to cut out a bigger opening in the plastic at the kick plate where the wires may be going through. It will give you some more play in the wire harness once you finish the repair.  Another way which is much easier and adds a little length to the wires at the same time , will be to use electrical butt connectors  (the correct size ones !!)  to splice each broken wire together. all you have to do is crimp each end with crimping pliers once the wire is inserted  into each end of the butt splice.   This is quick and easy way butt will not most likely last as long as soldering the wires back together.  (soldering the wires keeps the wiring harness wires tight and close together and more like the original width and state of the wires (less chance of friction along the wire connections)  I did this for a customer once and its been over a year now since the repair. That is not to say your repair will last as long !     The quality and longevity of our appliances today have become a throw away market with them on certain circumstances.  its awful.  I wish you luck with whatever route you choose in you situation.

  • Like 2
Posted

You’re right budget the prefix is “106”. I did use butt connectors and shrink tubing as well. Maybe I will contact Whirlpool and put up a fuss and see what they will do. Won’t a new door have the same crappy design?

Posted

being only 2yrs old !   yes I would assume it will have the same crappy design.  A few coats of liquid tape might work well along the length of the repaired wires also.   Dont waste  your effort, energy,  and time kicking up a stink with the rep on the other side of the phone unless its the   "AREA SUPERVISOR "     Get them and no one else    They will be the only ones that you will get any kind of satisfaction out of.    

Posted

Might be another class-action suit if enough people get feed up with this crap.

It's outrageous to think people should pay out $600-$700 for a door to fix a problem like this in a less then 3-4 year old refrigerator, (that's probably close to 1/3 to 1/2 the price some where purchased for).

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...