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  • Upcoming Events

    • 15 February 2025 03:00 PM Until 04:00 PM
      1  
      Returning guest presenter Aaron Wilson is back for another exciting discussion. This time, we'll be talking about...
      The Science of CYA: How to Keep the Customer Safe, Document Your Work, and Not Get Sued
      We take on a lot of liability as appliance repair techs, and that can get us into sticky situations whether we've done anything wrong or not. Aaron will be teaching us all about how to navigate this side of the trade.
      We'll start by going over a tragic, real-world case study where a sloppy installation had lethal results, analyzing exactly how the installer's negligence caused this. From there, our scope will expand to what kind of safety precautions we should implement in our own work, both for the customer's sake and for our own.
      But even if you do everything perfectly, there's still the famous "technician witch hunt." Well, we'll also talk about how to deal with that by thoroughly documenting your work and putting yourself beyond legal reproach.
      A little about our guest, Aaron Wilson:
      Aaron has been in the appliance repair trade for about 15 years, starting out by doing installations before moving on to bigger and better things. He worked for C&W Services as a Sub-Zero authorized servicer for a time and thereafter joined Mr. Appliance of Highland Park in the Dallas area, where he worked for years as the lead technician and field service manager. These days, he's making sure that all the appliances of everyone's favorite fried chicken place are in tip-top shape as the Quality and Performance Consultant for the southwest branch of Chick-fil-A. In addition, he has taught many classes on refrigeration repair and advanced diagnostics, during which time he also developed training material for the soft skills side of things, which he is delighted to share with you. On top of all that he's a certified graduate of the Master Samurai Tech Academy, so he knows his stuff!
      Also, follow this Calendar Event so you'll get notified of new posts here. Look for the "Follow" button either at the top of the topic on desktop or below the topic on mobile.
      Who: This workshop is available to everybody, including you! You don't have to be a member of Appliantology to join the fun.
      When: Saturday, February 15 @10:00 AM Eastern Time.
      Where: Online via Zoom
      How:
      Click here to register. If you're interested, register now. Arrive a couple minutes early to make sure your connection is working. Set a reminder for yourself for this workshop so you don’t miss it. 

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a RB526H2ww stove. The oven (bake) element stopped working. While removing it, I noticed only one of the push-on wire terminals was not connected to anything. I  opened the back of the stove and found out the end of the red wire that supplies power to the bake element had burned out. The metal part where the  end of the bake element should insert was damaged.
That  wire goes from the bake element to the  broil element to the bake/broil knob  and from there an other attached wire goes to the oven light on the control panel.

My issue is that I cannot seem to find a replacement for this wire on any of the parts websites; it is not even mentioned on the replacement parts list. Can anyone help?  Thank u so much!  
 

Posted (edited)

you need to replace the bad electrical female connections and wiring as needed with new connections and or wiring if necessary. Splice a small section of wire into the existing wire and solder the new female connections onto the cut back wire or new replacement wire .  If you need to replace the wiring because its too short now,  get your self some long enough in length 12 awg  high temperature appliance wire.  You can connect the new length of wire onto the existing one with good electrical butt connectors. Easy to do with the proper tools.  If you google it you can find it.    There is 14 awg wire also but I like using the 12 awg for repairs to heating element wiring.   solder the correct size female electrical connection  on the ends that need them and replace the burnt up wiring .  If the heating element connection spade that is soldered on the end is damaged in any little way , I suggest you replace the heating element also even though it may not be shorted out.  If it has a bad terminal end, putting a new female connection with wiring onto a damaged spade connection on a heating element can cause arcing and that would cause the same thing to happen all over again with that heating elements connection.  

Edited by darren412
added text
  • Like 4
Posted

Thank you for your answer! I was hoping to find the replacement wire somewhere, but if I can't I will do what  u suggest (and change the element as well)

 

Posted

Oh, where can I buy  the female connectors? Thanks!

Posted

even if you could find the wire harness set up .  you would have to purchase the whole wire harness and that would be alot more costly. You wont get it separately.   It is not even listed in whirlpools site under a part that is available anyway.     Doing this if your qualified enough to do it , will be a better job than what was there.   I wouldnt over think this repair.  you will be doing more and spending more with a repair that should take you 10 min to do 

  • Like 2
  • 3 years later...
Daniel A Webster
Posted

Hello, Darren: 

I have a similar issue. I plan to follow your excellent instructions above to repair the wire. My question pertains to the connection type: 

- Is it okay for me to convert from the screw-together connector to the quick-connect spade-style connector? (I am unable to find the screw-together connectors and the quick-connect spade-style connector seems to widely available.)
- Do you know if 12 awg wire with the heat-resistant quick-connectors already installed is available for purchase? 
- Is there a standard size for the quick-connect spade connections that fit older GE ovens?

Thanks for considering my questions! 

 

image.thumb.jpeg.e55ded1e1e6e1e5140534bae017a2174.jpeg

IMG_7258.jpeg

69759825488__674A421D-4EA8-423F-849A-E3D49C70B256.jpeg

Posted

From the looks of your pictures the one “pigtail” is in good shape. If the other end is in good shape you maybe able to splice with ceramic wire nuts. The other way to repair is the use high temp terminals. May not be able to replace the element from inside the cavity if the wire length is too short.

  • 1 year later...
Posted

Same problem with a Maytag wall oven.  Still looking for the real fix.   Here's something that almost works.

I used "uxcell 10M/33ft 1mm2 500C Tinned Copper Conductor High Temperature Wire Cable" from Amazon.   

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O9YDOEW/

And "Supco T1111 Quick Disconnect, High Temperature, 16-14 Gauge, 1/4" Female Tab (Pack of 20)" also from Amazon. 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0071NC5NO/

It worked for 11 months the last time.   When it fails, the insulation falls off when you touch it and the wire has pulled away from the connector.  The connector itself still looks shiny new.  I cut off a few inches of wire and re-attach it with a new connector and it's good for another few months.

That wire is supposed to be good to 500 C.  We never go over 450 f and yet the wire falls apart.

Does anybody know what wire would hold up at 500 degree fahrenheit?  Maybe this:  

13 Gauge High Temperature Wire 16.4Ft, -76-932 ℉ 13 AWG Mica Fiberglass Electronic Copper Wire Insulated Heat Resistant High Temp Electronical Flexible Cable for Lamp Boiler Heater Kiln

https://www.amazon.com/KToyeang-Temperature-Fiberglass-Electronic-Electronical/dp/B0D8BCPJKH/

 

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