GE WHRE5550K2WW will not spin or agitate after power outage

[x_cLOUDDEAD_x]

It fills up with water fine and the pump pumps the water out fine, just no spin or agitate.

After initial Googling I tried unplugging the power for a minute, plugging it back in and then opening and closing the lid six times within 12 seconds to reset the motor. No luck there, and I tried that a few times. I also unplugged it for an hour and plugged it back in and that didn't help either. Also per the manual I unplugged it for 2 minutes, plugged it back in and hit the Start button to reset the electronics. Still nothing.

Could the power outage have killed the motor? What should I try next?

[16345Ed]

Possible lid switch problem. But board could also be borked. Going need tested. 

[x_cLOUDDEAD_x]

15 minutes ago, 16345Ed said:

Possible lid switch problem. But board could also be borked. Going need tested. 

Thanks for the reply. Is there an easy test I can do for the (magnetic) lid switch?

[16345Ed]

Easy?

Yep got a multi meter know how to use it?

switch should have continuity when closed and none when open. 

[x_cLOUDDEAD_x]

6 hours ago, 16345Ed said:

Easy?

Yep got a multi meter know how to use it?

switch should have continuity when closed and none when open. 

I'll pick a multimeter up on the way home from work today, and I have used one before. Do I test the lid switch connections at the board, ie. am I wanting to test the wires that run back to the board? Or am I just wanting to test the physical switch, ie. testing at the contact points on the underside of the switch itself?

[16345Ed]

2 hours ago, x_cLOUDDEAD_x said:

I'll pick a multimeter up on the way home from work today, and I have used one before. Do I test the lid switch connections at the board, ie. am I wanting to test the wires that run back to the board? Or am I just wanting to test the physical switch, ie. testing at the contact points on the underside of the switch itself?

Whatever is easiest to get at for you...

[16345Ed]

Part number: WH12X10334

this link includes video on how to access switch for replacement. 

Also should look at motor when you have front cover off. Report back the pattern of the light flashing on the board mounted on motor. 

[darren412]

18 hours ago, x_cLOUDDEAD_x said:

I'll pick a multimeter up on the way home from work today, and I have used one before. Do I test the lid switch connections at the board, ie. am I wanting to test the wires that run back to the board? Or am I just wanting to test the physical switch, ie. testing at the contact points on the underside of the switch itself?

when you have the front cover off as ed mentioned.   You can also check the lid switch from the wiring harness plug connected to the front of the motor that will be facing you when the cover is removed.  The plug farthest to the left on the motor will have the 2 wires you can put your test leads on for the lid switch when you unplug this from the motor for testing.  You wont need to cut any wires or  need to splice any wires back up after testing. pull the plug off from the motor farthest to the left and then also have the power cord for the washer that plugs into the wall outlet in front of you also. locate the line terminal on the power cord. That will be the small blade terminal on the power cord. That is where you will place one of the meter leads on for testing. the other meter lead for testing will be going on the orange wire from the plug harness farthest to the left that you have unplugged from the motor. Do your test with the harness plug detached from the motor. with your meter leads on the orange wire I instructed you to use from the motor plug farthest to your left and the other meter lead on the small blade (line voltage terminal) connection from the power cord , with the lid down you should get continuity . with the lid up , you will get no continuity.  Any reading different from this that you get , replace the lid switch.    FYI   Models made sometime before 2010 have an inline harness fuse that would also cause the motor to not agitate or spin if it is blown.  Models after 2010 sometime had a motor change that no longer in corporated the in line fuse for the wiring harness to the motor.  The newer models with the flashing red light behind a flap on the right side of the motor will not have an in line fuse on those models but the earlier models with the  flashing green light with no flap will have the in line fuse.   Ed also mentioned to you to report back on the flashing light on top of the motor. make sure you get back here to let him know. The pattern of flashing is a self diagnostics system of the washer that will reveal more as to what else may be possibly happening with the washer.  If there is no light at all flashing on the top of the motor and if your model has a fuse and it is also not blown. you will need to replace the motor. If the self diagnostics have not detected a problem, the light will flash in one second intervals or .5 second intervals.   if it does detect a code , the light will flash the code and then there will be a 6 second pause between flashes.  Count the flashes between the 6 second pause if there is one and relay the number of flashes it is emmiting.   There may be more than one code so make sure you record any and all different amounts of flashes between the 6 second pause if there are any different amounts of flashes between the 6 second pause should there even be one. Then get back here to let ed know what you came up with.  Good luck 

[x_cLOUDDEAD_x]

On 2/27/2019 at 8:29 AM, darren412 said:

when you have the front cover off as ed mentioned.   You can also check the lid switch from the wiring harness plug connected to the front of the motor that will be facing you when the cover is removed.  The plug farthest to the left on the motor will have the 2 wires you can put your test leads on for the lid switch when you unplug this from the motor for testing.  You wont need to cut any wires or  need to splice any wires back up after testing. pull the plug off from the motor farthest to the left and then also have the power cord for the washer that plugs into the wall outlet in front of you also. locate the line terminal on the power cord. That will be the small blade terminal on the power cord. That is where you will place one of the meter leads on for testing. the other meter lead for testing will be going on the orange wire from the plug harness farthest to the left that you have unplugged from the motor. Do your test with the harness plug detached from the motor. with your meter leads on the orange wire I instructed you to use from the motor plug farthest to your left and the other meter lead on the small blade (line voltage terminal) connection from the power cord , with the lid down you should get continuity . with the lid up , you will get no continuity.  Any reading different from this that you get , replace the lid switch.    FYI   Models made sometime before 2010 have an inline harness fuse that would also cause the motor to not agitate or spin if it is blown.  Models after 2010 sometime had a motor change that no longer in corporated the in line fuse for the wiring harness to the motor.  The newer models with the flashing red light behind a flap on the right side of the motor will not have an in line fuse on those models but the earlier models with the  flashing green light with no flap will have the in line fuse.   Ed also mentioned to you to report back on the flashing light on top of the motor. make sure you get back here to let him know. The pattern of flashing is a self diagnostics system of the washer that will reveal more as to what else may be possibly happening with the washer.  If there is no light at all flashing on the top of the motor and if your model has a fuse and it is also not blown. you will need to replace the motor. If the self diagnostics have not detected a problem, the light will flash in one second intervals or .5 second intervals.   if it does detect a code , the light will flash the code and then there will be a 6 second pause between flashes.  Count the flashes between the 6 second pause if there is one and relay the number of flashes it is emmiting.   There may be more than one code so make sure you record any and all different amounts of flashes between the 6 second pause if there are any different amounts of flashes between the 6 second pause should there even be one. Then get back here to let ed know what you came up with.  Good luck 

Thanks for the help, guys. I continuity tested the lid switch per your instructions and it was ok. There was no light whatsoever on the motor, and I found that mine is the older version of the motor with the in line fuse, so I checked that next and found that the fuse was bad (I found instructions on another site to meter the neutral prong on the ac wall plug and the red/white wire on the far left motor plug and got no continuity, so I cut the in line fuse wire out and tested it to be sure and there was no continuity there either). I have placed an order for a replacement in line fuse (WH49X10055) and should have it by Thursday 3/7, so I'm hoping that fixes the problem.

[dennish]

I have the same issues reported.  no spin and no agitation on whre5550k2ww motor - found the following conditions leading to issues found: GFCI breaker snapped, clothes in washer must have been  attempting spin cycle - clothes waterlogged but tub drained, appears to have been super heavy - maybe too much clothes.

Tried motor reset with lid - no change

cut into lid switch to test continuity - continuity exists when lid closed - noticed brown discoloration at lid switch - connected back - retried motor reset

no lights on motor - cut out fuse harness - no continuity - so fuse blown

replaced fuse harness with 18 awg inline fuse holder with 10 amp rated glass fuse - no change - retried motor lid reset - same issues: no motor led lights, no spin, no agitation

is there a way to test the motor to see if receiving power and confirm burned out motor before purchasing costly motor replacement?

 

appreciate the guidance!

 

dennish

 

 

 

 

 

[dennish]

lid swtch discoloration makes me wonder if switch got wet leading to gfci breaker snap

also maybe motor burnout - led to fuse harness snap and gfci snap

 

any idea or reason that would lead to gfci breaker snap and fuseline break and motor light bot showing?