Maytag MDG7600aww will not heat

[JJ 109]

Maytag MDG7600aww will not heat.

I haven't torn into it yet, but I don't hear the gas valve "click" or even trying to light.

Hoping to get a lead on where to start.

[darren412]

need more information as to what the dryer is doing for you exactly ??   and what the dryer is not doing for you exactly ??  Motor running but not heating.  Motor not running at all when you press start.  If you are not hearing any clicking at all coming from the gas valve coil, Chances are its just a blown thermal fuse.   You will need to check the cycling thermostat and the hi limit thermostat also.  The temp switch can come into play also. 

[JJ 109]

2 hours ago, darren412 said:

need more information as to what the dryer is doing for you exactly ??   and what the dryer is not doing for you exactly ??  Motor running but not heating.  Motor not running at all when you press start.  If you are not hearing any clicking at all coming from the gas valve coil, Chances are its just a blown thermal fuse.   You will need to check the cycling thermostat and the hi limit thermostat also.  The temp switch can come into play also. 

Thank you.  Motor is running, but no heating.  I do not hear any clicking, (Familiar with the coils/valve sound on this unit).

I am assuming the thermal fuse, and thermostats normally closed devices I can just check continuity and they located down by the valve, as opposed to up on the control board?

[JJ 109]

I checked the thermal fuse, cycling thermostat and high limit thermostat. All have continuity. 

I am unsure of the temp selection buttons. I have had an issue previously with them also. 

Is there a way to check or bypass them?

[darren412]

I would not by pass them because components will get line voltage to them when they are not supposed to be energized.  assuming your gas valve coils are not totally shot also.  So on the temperature selection switch ,  the blue wire on the switch brings in the line voltage, from the timers blue wire .   If you dont have line voltage at the blue wire on the temp switch when the timer is on and running on a heat selected cycle,  then you have a problem with the timer or that blue wire. in air fluff selection the red wire should be reading 0 line voltage at that terminal .  when heat is selected at the temp switch, that is when you should be reading line voltage at the red terminal. if you are reading line voltage at the red terminal then the temp switch is ok.      You get your netral line coming from the centrifugal switch on the motor .        If all the thermostats and thermal fuse  are good like you say , and your not hearing the coils click at all then you most likely lost your line voltage coming in from the timer to the temperature selection switch  then to the coils.    or     you lost the neutral to the coils comining from the centrifugal switch on the motor.     The igniter wont get line voltage in this scenario either.       the red line voltage wire along with your black neutral wire has to be good from end to end. The wires have to be checked for a break along the way also.     any broken wires need to be found and spliced back together.   Good Luck

[Kendell]

Ohm out the gas coils

[JJ 109]

I will do those checks tonight. I will post my findings when complete.   Thank you 

[JJ 109]

On 3/4/2019 at 9:58 PM, Kendell said:

Ohm out the gas coils

One is 1500 other is 1600 ohms. 

I know they should be 1300. 

Are they bad?   I am used to them trying, clicking and not holding etc when they go bad. 

[darren412]

your 2 terminal coil should be between 1,000 and 2,000 K ohm's.          On The 3 terminal coil ,  The first terminal is your common terminal. from the 1st to the 2nd terminal it should be reading between 300 to 2000 k ohm's.     from the 1st terminal to the 3rd terminal you should be reading between 300 to 2,000 K ohm's also but only around a 3rd of the resistance reading your get at the 2nd terminal.   The 3rd terminal resitance reading will be a lower resitance reading but with in the spaecs I mentioned.     Is the igniter bar getting 120 volts at the igniter while when the cycle is being started ????    This is a fairly simple deduction if your good at working with live voltage.  I suggest at this point if you havent figured out where you have lost the line voltage or the faulty part,  that you get a qualified repair person to look at your dryer at this point.   I dont suggest you start throwing all kinds of parts at this dryer.  The coils are real short money.  Just throw some new coils into this if your not good at electrical testing. I dont think the coils are your issue.  What I am thinking is its the temperature selection switch .  I think you may have lost your line voltage through that switch.  Again , you need a qualified repair guy to chase down your line voltage at this point.  Good luck ok and get back here to let us know where you found the problem .

[JJ 109]

Took a step back, and made the checks from your first post.  The blue wire on the temp switch does not have line voltage.  I jumped the gun and replaced the temp selector, in part because had an issue with it prior in not working on high setting.

Next at the timer I checked the resistance between terminals BK and BR and it is open circuit.

Just as a follow up on coils.  The two terminal is 1500 ohms. On the three terminal, starting from the left, between pin 1 and 2 is 1560.  Between pin 1 and 3 is 650 ohms. It’s open between 2 and 3. 

I have 120volts at the ignighter bar when I start the cycle.

From this I am concluding the timer is bad?  Concur, or are the additional checks?

[Budget Appliance Repair]

Concur, timer is the problem.

About your open reading on the three terminal coil between 2 and 3, I believe you have your meter on a too low of setting, (2 to 3 should be 1&2+1&3=2210 ohms, if your meter is set on a 2000 ohm setting then it will show open on your meter.  Move the meter setting to the next setting - maybe 20K ohm - usually basic meters have 20 ohm, 200 ohm, 2000 ohm and 20K ohm settings).

[JJ 109]

Ok this is getting very frustrating. Replaced the timer. I now have line voltage at the blue wire at the temp switch. 

I have line voltage at the red wire out of the temp switch. 

Still will not open the coils.

At the three terminal coil, I have line voltage at the red wire on terminal 1

At the three terminal coil, I have ground at the black wire on terminal 2

Baffled 

 

[JJ 109]

Went through everything again. 

Found the igniter to be open circuit. Will be replacing that now. 

Coincidence, I’dont  know. I know I did not have line voltage at the temp selector before I replace the timer. 

Hopefull this is the end of it. 

[JJ 109]

After Igniter replaced dryer is working now.

Thank you all for all the assistance.