Amana ABB2524DEQ Bottom Freezer Fridge - No cool

[redboy1972]

I have a 14yr old freezer on bottom Amana fridge that suddenly stopped working. Both the freezer and fridge section are 61 degrees. The ambient air temp is 70 so it is a "little cool" but nothing stays frozen. It stopped working 2 days ago and now everything is melted.

Opening the back I see the fan near the compressor running and their is airflow to the top fridge area. With a voltmeter I was reading 119v AC going to start relay. When connected, all of the fans are running and I do hear a hum and vibration from the condenser and the voltage detector detects voltage to starter relay. So I assume that the condenser is getting power and running.

When removed, the start relay does not have "broken / loose metal sounds" when shaken

With power off the three pins on compressor read 5.2, 4.2 and 8.8 ohms. It is open between all pins and copper tubing. Between copper tubing and where green wire goes (ground) reads < 1ohm. This tells me the compressor is likely electrically sound.

I vacuumed off the coils below fridge then used a leaf blower to blow remaining from coils. They are clear and free. The freezer and fridge were evacuated of all items and are bare as we needed our perishables moved to another fridge.

Touching coils below fridge from back area near compressor and from front below door are both very slightly warm and the coils within the fridge behind panel in freezer area are room temperature. The coils in freezer are are from my understanding supposed to be extremely cold often with presence of ice on them. Instead they are room temperature.

I do not hear clicking from start relay indicating an overload and safety shutoff.

The compressor stays on 100% of the time so not likely a temp control.

I suspect low coolant or that the condenser is running with too low pressure in a barely working capacity.

This is reaching my DIY capability level and I want to know if anyone has any suggestions before I buy another fridge.

[TheHelicopterKid]

If the compressor is indeed running, take a temperature reading of the condenser coil (the one you cleaned). The temp should be roughly 30 dig higher than ambient. If it is ambient temp during operation, you have a sealed system issue (refrigerant has leaked out). If this is the case, I would say the unit is at the end of its service life (14 yrs).

[16345Ed]

18 minutes ago, TheHelicopterKid said:

If the compressor is indeed running, take a temperature reading of the condenser coil (the one you cleaned). The temp should be roughly 30 dig higher than ambient. If it is ambient temp during operation, you have a sealed system issue (refrigerant has leaked out). If this is the case, I would say the unit is at the end of its service life (14 yrs).

Yep...

[TheHelicopterKid]

1 hour ago, TheHelicopterKid said:

If the compressor is indeed running, take a temperature reading of the condenser coil (the one you cleaned). The temp should be roughly 30 dig higher than ambient. If it is ambient temp during operation, you have a sealed system issue (refrigerant has leaked out). If this is the case, I would say the unit is at the end of its service life (14 yrs).

One more thing to add. If you had the unit unplugged, be sure to let it run for at least 15 minutes before checking the temp of the condenser. The heat exchange will take several minutes in a properly working system and is not instant.

[darren412]

13 hours ago, 16345Ed said:

Yep...

Hi Ed ,  The compressor pin readings , if that is the actual reading they are getting , are not making any sense to me either.  what are your thoughts on those readings. ??

[Rhubarb Tau]

On 3/14/2019 at 8:45 PM, redboy1972 said:

the three pins on compressor read 5.2, 4.2 and 8.8 ohms.

 

4 hours ago, darren412 said:

The compressor pin readings ... are not making any sense to me either.

I think it's a traditional split-phase compressor. 5.4 and 4.2 Ohms would be close for the Start and Run windings , and since they share a common, resistance from Start to Run through Common (assuming a probe resistance of ~.3 Ohms) would be close to Start + Run = ~9 Ohms

@redboy1972 If the Compressor is running I wouldn't spend too much time looking at Compressor winding resistance. If the Compressor is running consistently and there's less than 30*F above ambient on the Compressor discharge tube, you have a 'sealed system' issue. Likely a leak, or possibly an in-efficient compressor. Either way, you'll need to call in a  pro if you want to go forward with repair, and it'll likely be close to the cost of replacement of the fridge.

[redboy1972]

Thanks for the responses.  After hours of running, just feeling it with my hands, both sets of coils are close to room temp.  I didn't notice any pooled leaks but that is likely what has happened.  I don't think adding freon DIY is legally allowed plus it would just leak out again.  I think its time for a new fridge.  Stupid CA laws!!!

We decided to buy a new one. Several people mentioned low Freon which is cost prohibitive for such an old appliance.

 

Thank you all for all the responses.