GE Dryer GTD18ESSJ0WW electric fuse issue

[greynold99]

4 yr. old GE Dryer, had just completed a small load and on starting next, it started to run and then shut off.

Opening dryer door, there was no interior light.  Checked breaker at circuit panel box but it was Ok! - not tripped.  Reset it anyway just in case.

Drum turns freely and is not binding.  I've read that there is a safety fuse switch on some dryers that will cause this issue.

So, before I do a disassembly, I thought I should ask the experts here what the proper diagnostic procedure is and what repair are steps are?

Thanks,

Greynold99

[greynold99]

In original post, I meant to title question - Electric Fusible Link issue?

I checked the voltage at the wall outlet where dryer connects and I have 120v AC on both legs.  So I have power to the dryer.

My next steps would be to check the pigtail connection in the dryer to make sure wires are still connected good and then to see if there's any kind of thermal fuse or motor reset.

If nothing found there, my next check would be the door-switch and related connections, since that would control both the interior light and the running of the dryer.

The drum as I mentioned turns fine with only the belt resistance - does not spin freely.

[johntech]

25 minutes ago, greynold99 said:

120v AC on both legs. 

Did you have 240 between each leg?

Thermostats are numbers 505 safety thermostat and 507 high limit thermostat. Both should have continuity.

Before pulling it apart make sure the door switch feels right and clicks when depressed.

If a thermostat has tripped chances are your ducts are clogged or restricted in some way.

If the motor is the problem there is no reset the motor would need to be replaced. The over load in the motor resets itself when working properly. Normal complaint for motor overloading would be it runs for a few minutes then shuts down but I can start it again in 5 minutes or so then it stops again.

[greynold99]

JohnTech,

Thanks for your reply.

Sorry, I'm not an electrician and only remembered to test each of the two HOT legs to Common for 120V AC - which is what I did.

Would you just touch each HOT pole with both leads of the voltmeter to read a 240V AC reading?  Just want to ask before I check... usually safer for me that way.

The vent pipe was cleaned out on the inside of the dryer last Fall (and this was after 3 yrs.)- dryer is configured for bottom-venting thru the floor to the basement; so there are no long exhaust runs. I use a fine-mesh nylon to catch the lint there and had just replaced last week.

I've never really paid attention to the door switch operation but it 'feels' and sounds like there's a click when I press it now - but I'm not sure. Once I do the disassembly, what are the continuity tests to check it's working?  I'm assuming one of leads on the switch is for the Interior light and other is the setting for the dryer to run when the door is closed.  It would seem the light would still work if one of the Thermostats was tripped - does that make sense?

The Safety Thermostats 505 & High Limit Thermostat 507- if one or the other has tripped - are they just meant to be replaced?  There's no reset or anything.  Also is part 506 another Safety Thermostat to test?

Greynold99

 

[Captain Dunsel]

Part number: WE1X21975
That Model does have a fuse in it's circuit!

[greynold99]

Thank you for your reply.  Do you know where the Fuse is located - there was no picture associated with the part nor where it is located.  Thinking it either be near the incoming line-voltage or in the main console circuitry in the top panel.

I'm still puzzling as to why any of the safety thermostats would cut the power to the interior dryer light...?

greynold99

[greynold99]

Captain Dunsel - I found the fuse you mentioned FUSE 3AB - It's near the bottom rear inside where the power comes in... 

Greynold99

[greynold99]

I found the fuse on the 'outside' near the incoming pig-tail wire connection and it looks like it's the problem.  Checking continuity, I'm getting readings all over the place - high as 1500 ohm to 450 ohms but never Zero  and never consistently the same reading.

The part looks like it retails for around $14 at PartsDirect and Amazon...  I'm wondering if I could pickup up a 5mm x 20mm 250v/30a ceramic fuse at a Electric Supply store that's close ( I have to travel 15 miles to get to an appliance repair parts store or wait for it to arrive if bought online).

Thanks to Captain Dunsel for pointing me in the right direction and also to JohnTech for his insights - I appreciate the time folks take replying to my posts here..

Will update once I get the fuse to let you know it's working.

Greynold99

 

[greynold99]

The dryer is working fine and thanks for your help in solving the problem.

I called my local appliance repair store to make sure they had the fuse before making the 15 mile trip and the repairman offered that this safety fuse was discontinued with the next year's model of this same dryer.  Guess they had problems with it failing as I experienced and for an inline ceramic fuse, it's fairly expensive.  He said that I could bypass the fuse and that's what I did.

Again, appreciate your help in getting my dryer back working.

Greynold99