Whining Noise from Viking Downdraft

[ZMonet]

I'm having problems with my Viking range downdraft.  The model number is VIPR161RSS.  The issue is that when I press the up/down button the downdraft does not go up.  All it does is make a whining/whirring noise for a second or two, then silent.  The filter light is illuminated on the control panel so it is definitely getting power. I can manually pull up the downdraft, for what that is worth.  Do I need a new gear motor, or is it likely something else?  Thanks for any help!

[ZMonet]

The parts place is telling me that I need a new top cover, part # PS200006.  This part has the controls on the top, whereas my controls are built into the cabinet.  Also, I'm not sure how a new top cover/controls would fix the humming noise coming from the downdraft.  When I've heard things hum in the past it was because of messed up bearings or motor and this part doesn't seem to fix that.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.  I don't feel like spending $600-$700 for a part just to find out it doesn't fix my problem. 

[ZMonet]

So I took apart the housing unit and revealed the motor.  I spun the motor a few times and then pressed the button to raise the downdraft...and up it went.  Is there anything I can do to make sure this doesn't happen again?  There seems to be a little bit of leaking oil (or maybe that is how it is supposed to be).  Can I oil it or put some grease on it and, if so, where?  I've attached a pic.  The arrow is the part I manually turned to get it working again.

[MrApplianceMatt]

It's entirely possible that your drive motor has a dead spot in it and that on the last usage you hit the "lottery", so to speak. Was it stiff to turn or did it spin pretty freely? The brass bearing should be oil impregnated and not require the use of other lubricants. The oil you see may be from cooking vapors being drawn in  during use and sticking to whatever is in its path.

[ZMonet]

Thanks, Matt!  It did turn pretty freely, seemingly better as I turned it.  The oil I'm seeing (you can see it a little in the pic on the black part near the screws) must be from the motor because it is in a metal enclosure by itself.  Is my best bet to just close it all up and hope for the best?  It looks like a new Viking motor is $250 so I rather try and preserve this one for as long as possible -- especially since it gets used only about 15 times a year.

[ZMonet]

This might be a little easier to see the oil I'm speaking of.

[ZMonet]

I tried cleaning the "oil" with a paper towel.  No residue came off and when I scratched it with my finger the "wet" surface turned out to be dry -- kind of like a polyurethane.  I'm going to close it up but if people have any thoughts I'd appreciate them

[MrApplianceMatt]

1 hour ago, ZMonet said:

I tried cleaning the "oil" with a paper towel.  No residue came off and when I scratched it with my finger the "wet" surface turned out to be dry -- kind of like a polyurethane.  I'm going to close it up but if people have any thoughts I'd appreciate them

It's likely from the windings on the motor. They're under that white tape with the resistors attached. They're coated in urethane for insulation. Probably came that way from factory.

Edited May 31, 2019 by MrApplianceMatt

[ZMonet]

Thanks, Matt.  I've put it all back together and it is working well.  Hopefully someone finds this post and it helps them as I couldn't find anything about this issue on the Internets.

[Budget Appliance Repair]

Looks to me like the rotor itself is rusted, it doesn't take much to make one of these shaded poll motors not start - they are very low torque.

I see this a lot in refrigerator evaporator fan motors in rentals where one tenant leaves turning off the refrigerator and leaving the doors all closed.  The humid warm environment of the closed up refrigerator with all the moisture inside causes the evaporator fan motor rotor and frame to rust and then when next tenant comes in and turn it back on the freezer gets cold but refrigerator section stays warm because the cold air can't be blown into refrig section.

I don't know how the other end of the shaft is attached to the motor but the side that you have in the picture comes apart very easily by removing the two screws, if the rotor can be removed easily you can clean the rust off with emery cloth and also clean any rust build up off the rotor area of the motor frame and coat the motor frame and rotor with a light film of machine oil and reassembly.

Looking at your picture, there is a very good chance that removing the two screws on the rear bearing bracket will let you remove the electrical coil and motor frame off the rotor and gear case to assess the rotor and frame rotor area to clean.

You say it only gets used about 15 times a year so while it sits not being used, the rust can build up and cause it to be locked next time you try to use it.

If you can't remove the rotor easily because of the way the other end of the shaft is attached into the gear box then just giving what you can access a good coating of machine oil will help in keeping it from rusting between uses now that is broke free and turning again.

Edited June 1, 2019 by Budget Appliance Repair

[bna12122]

The motor isn't rusted that gear motor has a fibrous cover on the exposed side.  Once those motors start to act up the chance that it will fail again is high.  The gear motor part # PS200014 is $236.74 from Viking.  I've worked on Viking and for Viking for almost 20 years and know the downdraft well.