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Defrost problem INGLIS ITB19440Q02

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******Message to the moderator: Please could you delete my other thread about the same subject ( title Defrost problem Inglis WPW10292244 refrigerator, posted june 21) . I'm unable to correct the title with the right model number*****


My Inglis refrigerator still have a defrost problem. Here's what I've done lately. Today I had to defrost manually with a air dryer the evaporator.

But before doing the defrost thing , I tested with the maintenance menu the thermostat circuit. The JAZZ board still returned me an O (open) circuit. I then probed it with an ohmmeter disconnected from the circuit and still frozen. The thermostat read was ok. It read 0 ohm. So its closed. I reconnected the thermostat to the circuit.

I probed the resistance of the heating element ( disconnected from the circuit) It read 33 ohm. So its not burn open or shorted if the resistance value is ok. So everything in this area looks fine.

I tested the voltage at the two disconected terminals of the heating element and I mesured nothing. So I started a manual defrost in the maintenance menu of the Jazz board. I took again a voltage reading. Around 15v was present at the terminal. So I plugged the terminals back....nothing seem to happen. So I back probed the terminal and it read 0v. I disconnected the terminals, still in forced defrost mode, and now I read 14v. I reconnected the terminal and nothing 0v. So everything seem to point in the direction of a defective JAZZ board. What you guys think?



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Posted (edited)

Hello Yan,

In most cases when you are having a defrost problem you can simplify it by understanding you have 3 components that are involved in a defrost cycle.

1.) The Heating Element.

2.) The Deforst bi-metal/thermostat

3.) The Defrost Control, which can be a mechanical timer or control board (in your case it is the JAZZ board)


You Inglis Refrigerator is made by Whirlpool and my go to for diagnosing this unit when it has a defrost problem is to enter into a forced defrost cycle (Unit must be running and freezing in the freezer to allow the defrost bi-metal to close) Then verify that the heater has come on, either by sound, using a temp gun, or you can verify with a amp meter over one of the wires leading to the heater.  You should read aprox 3.6 amps.


If you heater has come on, you pretty much verified that your heater and bi-metal are both working and you are having a issue with your control board not "auto defrosting" you can force it through diagnostics, but its not doing it on its own, I see JAZZ boards fail like this allot.

If the heater does not come on, normally the culprit is going to be your defrost Bi-metal.  WHILE FREEZING you can ohm it out and it should read close to 0 ohms.  But normally you can visually see when a defrost bi-metal is bad.  The area where the wires enter into the bi-metal is the week spot, often manufactures have the wires coming into it from above, this allows condensation and water (when defrosting) to trace its way back into the bi-metal and then when cooling resumes it freezes and expands, enlarging the leak and allowing more water to enter creating a snowball effect.  Once this happens and enough water gets inside the bi-metal the water freezes and expands to the point of popping the top, visually telling you, its a bad defrost bi-metal.

When I reinstall a bi-metal I try to install it up-side down so that the wires come into it from the bottom, this allows condensation to fall away from the seal rather than into it.


(Picture added)


The odds that its a bad heating element on this unit are normally pretty slim, but can happen.  So you go to bad parts are normally the JAZZ board, and or the Bi-metal.  Check Ebay or parts web-sights to find a good price on either.

Defrost Bi-Metal: Oddly the Defrost Bi-metal was not listed on your parts breakdown, if you look at the one you have its probably a 42-12 degrees F that you could match up.

Jazz board: W10503278

Hope that helped, let me know how it turns out.

Peace out and God Bless


AKA Electrotech



PS: Your heater operates on 120 Volts AC if your only getting 15 volts, you likely have a bad relay in the control board or bad wiring.  Measure it at the control board, if you have 120 there, but not at the heating element, than bad wiring, but if you do not have that 120 right at the board, than you have a bad board, assuming you have proper voltage coming in at your power.

Edited by Electrotech

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Hello, heres an update. Finally everything outside the Jazz control board were ok. Thermostat and heating element were in the spec. I decided to change the Jazz board, and everything seem ok. After programming the Jazz, I openend the freezer door, and I started to ear a sizzling sound coming from the evaporator. I will look a little later see if defrost is really working. Thanks.

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Its hot, the ice is melting..lolll. Finally the freezer/refrigerator  seem to operate normally now. Thanks a lot. 



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