GE Refrigerator GSL22JFRE BS not cooling, but makes a constant clicking sound

[Pacochu]

Our 15+ year old GE GSL22JFRE BS has stopped cooling. As of yesterday morning, the freezer was 37 degrees and the main chamber was 45 degrees. It does not run, but makes an audible clicking sound coming from the bottom rear of the fridge. I do not hear a fan running either. I turned the dial off and left it plugged in. Eventually, it made a light chirping sound, so I unplugged it. I plugged it back in a bit later and it still made the clicking sound.

A parts/interwebs search shows a compressor overload part as a possible fault. Any ideas? I'd rather not drop the money on a brand new fridge at this point.

[Quick]

@Pacochu You have a 50 50 chance with this. It's cheaper than going with the original start components on a 50 50 shot. Your compressor may be bad. Make sure the condenser is clean and the condenser fan motor is running. Good luck.

Part number: rco410

 

[Pacochu]

I actually have one of those new in bag in my garage (older RCO410) that I ended up not needing on another repair. I'll give it a shot. 

[Pacochu]

The 3 in 1 did not change anything. There is a loud clicking from a relay on the control board behind the smaller panel on the back of the fridge. The relay part number is 832A-1C-2. Without the 3 in 1 installed, there is a light clicking coming from the wiring side of the compressor and the control board. With it installed, only the relay on the control board clicks. The evaporator fan does not run in either case. 

 

What is my next step?

[Quick]

15 hours ago, Pacochu said:

I actually have one of those new in bag in my garage (older RCO410) that I ended up not needing on another repair. I'll give it a shot. 

O.K. From that post I gather you repair appliances. That means you have a volt olm meter. I'm not looking at a schematic for your box but it sounds like a split phase compressor complaint to me? Do you have power to the compressor? Are the compressor windings intact and not gone to ground. Are you sure you have the red to the run winding,  the black to common,  and the white to start? Are you sure you have the pins on the compressor identified correctly? 

[Pacochu]

I wouldn't say I repair appliances, but I will try to fix things myself and am relatively handy. I had the 3 in 1 from when it was recommended to fix a fridge a neighbor was giving away when it stopped working. That one needed something else, but I kept this part anyways. I did install it per the package directions. The pins I used were correct. As far as the type of compressor and the question regarding the windings, that I do not know. A voltmeter connected to the power wires that go into the factory cap reads 0V. So, I assume that the compressor is not getting power. 

[Pacochu]

I just stumbled across a YouTube video by this site that seems to duplicate my symptoms and says that the control board is bad. 

[Quick]

Part number: WR55X10942P

Good luck.

 

[EthanRanft]

11 hours ago, Pacochu said:

says that the control board is bad. 

I second that. Definitely a bad control board, I’ve seen it many times

[16345Ed]

Click at board not compressor on these GEs is always bad board. 

[Ghashaan]

22 hours ago, Pacochu said:

I just stumbled across a YouTube video by this site that seems to duplicate my symptoms and says that the control board is bad. 

@Pacochu I wish you ease and success on your attempt to solve your refrigerator's problem! 

Can I ask you to give me the link to that video? The problem seems typical and I might find it useful at any moment.

[Pacochu]

9 minutes ago, Ghashaan said:

@Pacochu I wish you ease and success on your attempt to solve your refrigerator's problem! 

Can I ask you to give me the link to that video? The problem seems typical and I might find it useful at any moment.

This is the one I stumbled upon.
 

 

[Pacochu]

I tried to source a board locally. One place wanted $180 and another wanted $360 plus a $50 core charge. I ended up going with Amazon for $140 with delivery today just to get it working again. I might just install the 3 in 1 anyways just to prevent a future repair. 

[EthanRanft]

15 minutes ago, Pacochu said:

I might just install the 3 in 1 anyways just to prevent a future repair.

I would discourage that. IMO, those are best reserved as a last resort and not a direct replacement for the PTCs that are being used on compressors nowadays 

[Quick]

38 minutes ago, Pacochu said:

I might just install the 3 in 1 anyways just to prevent a future repair. 

I suggested that just to check out your compressor. You would be better off with the original start components if your compressor is good. @EthanRanft Is correct.

[Pacochu]

Ok, thanks!

 

[Ghashaan]

@Pacochu A BIG thank you for the link. 

@EthanRanft @Quick I thought 3 in 1 is another name for PTC starters, but now I know I was mistaken.

I have worked with PTC starters before but not with 3 in 1s. So what's the difference? 

A PTC starter increases the resistance in series with the start winding just a few moments after the initial burst. By doing so, it disconnects the power source from the start winding so that only run and common windings would be connected to the source. This is how I understand PTC starters.

But I'm totally new to 3 in 1s. Can someone tell me more about them or direct me to source that has information about them? Any help would be pricelessly appreciated!

 

[Quick]

@Ghashaan @Pacochu

That's been a topic of debate among techs around here. Some are O.K. with it some are not. Most just use it to check the current draw on the compressor. A hard start kit is designed to carry more current before tripping. That can be a fire hazard. The other thing I worry about myself  is I've seen pins blow out of compressors before. I'm a little more comfortable with a hard start if I can cover the pins with the original cover anyhow. When push comes to shove OEM parts are best. Do what you want. If it's a bad board chances are your original start components are good. So why not use them.

Edited August 15, 2019 by Quick
Forgot to catch Pacochus attention.

[Pacochu]

The board arrived and the fridge fired right up when plugged in. I rolled it back into its spot in the front of the garage plugged it in and turned it one. It started running well. Now, I have a high frequency constant chirp/whine coming from top portion of the back of the freezer. The fan is blowing air into the main compartment. I assume the evaporator fan is acting up now?

[Quick]

1 minute ago, Pacochu said:

The board arrived and the fridge fired right up when plugged in. I rolled it back into its spot in the front of the garage plugged it in and turned it one. It started running well. Now, I have a high frequency constant chirp/whine coming from top portion of the back of the freezer. The fan is blowing air into the main compartment. I assume the evaporator fan is acting up now?

Sure sounds like it. Unless a bird flew in there.

 

[Pacochu]

At least that repair can be done from the front of the front of the unit. Still cheaper than a new fridge.