Frigidaire FGF366BCB Oven and Broiler won't light -- Both igniters bad?

[macche]

I recently acquired a Frigidaire LP range that I was told worked with no issues. The cooktop burners light and work fine, however neither the oven nor the broiler will light. Both of the igniters glow.

I understand that the igniters are the most common problem, but my question is what is the likelihood of both of them being faulty? Or if one of them is faulty would it cause both to not light? 

I have a voltmeter and attempted to test the safety gas valve, but don’t trust the results since I don’t exactly know what I’m doing and my results were far from expected values.

Wiring diagram is attached.

 

[Budget Appliance Repair]

Make sure that the oven shutoff on the regulator didn't get flipped to the off position when moving/installing.

Part number: 316091706

 

This is the position the ON/OFF oven lever will be in if in the OFF position:
 

[macche]

Yes, I have checked this lever. Just to confirm, the lever shown in the picture is in the OFF position?

 

In any case, I tested it in both positions, and it did not make a difference 

[Budget Appliance Repair]

Yes, the 2nd good clear picture of the regulator is shown with the oven shut-off in OFF position.

 

[Bluebayou]

does your meter have a clampon amp meter?  see how many amps the igniter(s) are drawing when they glow

 

[Vance R]

Think it is the square style igniter, should have amp draw of 3.2 to 3.7 amps.

[16345Ed]

If I had a dime for every time I heard this...

“I recently acquired a Frigidaire LP range that I was told worked with no issues.”

insert any appliance in the sentence. 

 

 

[David Jero]

Because both igniters glow.  My guess is the safety valve.  I doubt both are bad. It i very uncommon. The control is obviously send 110VAC down there. The only thing left is the safety valve. Unless there is a thermostat high limit in the circuit. I can't see that diagram very well. 

[macche]

I tested the amp draw (using clamp on amp meter) of the igniters and found 2.75amps for the oven igniter, and 3.36amps for the broiler igniter. This would indicate that the oven igniter needs replacing but the broiler igniter should be okay? 

 

I tested the resistances of the safety valves and saw a change from 1 -- jumps around from 3-5 then holds steady at 0. Wouldn't this indicate the safety valve is okay as well?

[macche]

Here are higher quality diagrams - 

Wiring schematic: https://ibb.co/Ydsykq2

Wiring diagram: https://ibb.co/zN9RCYd

[EthanRanft]

I suppose you could check and just be sure you have gas up to the safety valve. But I would definitely replace the bake igniter first and see what that changes. Based on that amperage reading, it’s definitely bad. Or you could probably swap the igniters around just for fun and see if it ignites in bake. It’s possible the safety valve is the reason why it isn’t broiling, and the bake igniter is the reason it isn’t baking

[macche]

How would I check for gas up to the safety valve? I had the same thought -- I'm ordering the bake igniter today and will see what that does.

[EthanRanft]

53 minutes ago, macche said:

How would I check for gas up to the safety valve?

Turn off the gas, take the safety valve off, and slowly turn on the gas until you can tell gas is coming out of the line that hooks up to the safety valve

[ApplianceLearner]

The gas valve is the one thing that's common to both the oven and broil circuits.  Each has it's own igniter.  I would focus on the gas valve as your load of interest. 

It's not likely that both igniters would be bad.

[macche]

I went ahead and replaced the oven igniter and the oven lights now. For about a day after doing so, I did notice a slight gas smell near the bottom of the oven, so I thought maybe there was something wrong with the safety valve after all and it was stuck open? The gas smell has since gone away and the oven still lights. 

Interestingly, the broil still won't light but the igniter is now drawing around 3 amps. I will likely replace that next, but I am wondering if an oven igniter can be used in place of the broil igniter? It looks like the only difference is in the length of the body the extends to the back of the oven, and using an oven igniter instead of broil would just have wires extend through the hole instead of igniter body.

[EthanRanft]

As long as it’s the same style and you can get it to mount correctly. But probably not if that leaves a hole in the back of the oven

Edited September 4, 2019 by EthanRanft

[Vance R]

Find the kit with a block off plate  and insulation. It use a standard length igniter.

[EthanRanft]

3 hours ago, Vance R said:

Find the kit with a block off plate  and insulation. It use a standard length igniter.

I believe he’s referring to the kit: P/N 12400035

[certified tech group 51]

The bake and broil features probably did work when picked up..It was putting it in the truck, getting  bounced up and down.  Dropping off  door thresholds that possibly fractured the ignitors.....I carry three of the old M/T ignitors, P/N 12400035 fit about 90% of the domestic units plus free extra parts....The ignitors are fragile to begin with, have opened a new box only to find the glow bar broken / cracked......