GE Monogram ZISS480DMAS Refrigerator

[TripleHopped]

I woke up on Saturday morning to find my refrigerator not working. I have power to the mother board. The interior lights will turn on when the door is opened. The compressor is not working, no clicking sound coming from the mother board. The temperature display for the freezer and fridge on the inside of the fridge door is blank and the ice/water display is not lighting up or working. I turned off the breaker for more than 10 minutes and then turned it back on trying to reboot it, but that did not work. The mother board looks good except for a small buildup of something on the underside of the board at one of the capacitors. These pair of capacitors are CD110X, 85C (M), 400V, 47uF. The capacitors look like they might be bulging a little. I believe the original board number is WR55X10167. I called GE and they gave me an updated board number of WR55X1028. When I do a search for this board I get that the board has been replaced by WR55X11130. When I checked for 12V at the J4 pins I was not getting any reading. The multi-meters display did not change from 0.

Thanks in advance for any help. 

[Vance R]

Presume you have wiring diagram, you measured connector j4  pin 2 (brown) to pin 3 (orange) and no 12 volts dc. Noticed fans use 12 volts dc as well, connector j2 . Measure connector j2 pin 8 (red) to connector j4 pin 3 (orange) to see if you have 12 volts dc. They don't show any of the pins on connector j2 as common for 12 vdc, that why to measure to j4 pin 3 as reference point.  If no voltage at j2 pin 8 , unplug ac from unit and then unplug one of the 12 volt loads j4 or j2. Restore power to frig and recheck for 12 volts dc, if still no 12vdc, do same procedure with other load. This to see if one of the loads is bring down the 12 vdc supply. Sometimes a fan motor will fail and bring down supply. Once in a great while a fan motor failure will kill the board, so both board and fan motor will need to be replaced at the same time.

[EthanRanft]

7 hours ago, Vance R said:

Once in a great while a fan motor failure will kill the board, so both board and fan motor will need to be replaced at the same time.

When that happens, doesn’t it just kill that fan motor but everything else works?

[Vance R]

Can drag the 12 voltage down and the board stops working. 

[EthanRanft]

1 hour ago, Vance R said:

Can drag the 12 voltage down and the board stops working. 

Interesting, good to know!

[TripleHopped]

On 9/1/2019 at 10:39 AM, Vance R said:

Presume you have wiring diagram, you measured connector j4  pin 2 (brown) to pin 3 (orange) and no 12 volts dc. Noticed fans use 12 volts dc as well, connector j2 . Measure connector j2 pin 8 (red) to connector j4 pin 3 (orange) to see if you have 12 volts dc. They don't show any of the pins on connector j2 as common for 12 vdc, that why to measure to j4 pin 3 as reference point.  If no voltage at j2 pin 8 , unplug ac from unit and then unplug one of the 12 volt loads j4 or j2. Restore power to frig and recheck for 12 volts dc, if still no 12vdc, do same procedure with other load. This to see if one of the loads is bring down the 12 vdc supply. Sometimes a fan motor will fail and bring down supply. Once in a great while a fan motor failure will kill the board, so both board and fan motor will need to be replaced at the same time.

When I checked J4 Brown to Orange for 12V the display blinks -. When I check J2 Red to J4 Orange the display blinks -. When I unplug J2, J4 will give a reading of 0.02V. When I unplug J4, J2 will have the display blinks - this is going from pin 8 Red to pin 3 White (Fan Com).    On the J2 plug with everything plugged in. From pin 8 Red to pin 3 White (Fan Com) the display blinks -. Then from pin 8 Red to pin 4 Yellow (Evap Fan) the display blinks -. Then from pin 8 Red to pin 5 Pink (Cond Fan) the display blinks -.   I've been watching a lot of videos. Then I unplugged the AC (turned off the breaker) doing an Ohms test for fan motor circuit. From J2 pin 3 White with the black lead to pin 8 Red with the red lead is should be getting a reading between 1.5K to 3K Ohms. My reading is 0.801.   Then I went to test the Defrost heaters Ohms as it was part of the video. From J7 pin 9 Orange (Neutral) red lead to J9 Red black lead the meter displays 19.02 with the dial set to 20M for Ohms.  From a video the Thermistors all check out OK.

[EthanRanft]

So you’re saying it’s a bad fan motor?

[Vance R]

TripleHopped - since the only voltage reading you give us is .02v for a 12 volt supply. My conclusion would be a bad board. 

[TripleHopped]

It looks like I have a bad board and a bad fan or two.

Thanks for the help.

[EthanRanft]

Update us when you are able to get it fixed

[TripleHopped]

Will do.

One other thing I thought was interesting in my searching.

When I look up the part numbers for the Condenser Fan (WR60X10083) and the Evaporator Fan (WR60x10043) I will get the same part number Evaporator Fan WR60X10185 and it indicates this has replaced the other two part numbers. 

When I look up the parts in the diagram section. The Evaporator Fan #860 shows up as WR60X10185 (Evaporator Fan) and the Condenser Fan #725 shows up as WR60X10209 (Condenser Fan).

[EthanRanft]

I don’t know where you’re finding 10083. My lookup is showing 10209 for the condenser fan motor

[TripleHopped]

The 100083 and 100043 are from the original Technical Data paper that was in the Sealed System area of the fridge.

[David Jero]

I think you just have a bad control board. No display. No dispenser. No compressor. Bulging capacitors?  A side note. If you have a bad fan that is causing a problem with the DC circuit. Unplugging the fan would make everything work normal.  It's rare for those fans on this model to that to begin with.  The only other possibility is the inverter.  But usually everything but the compressor works when an inverter fails.  

[TripleHopped]

Well I got the parts in and then thought of some more testing to do with the fans. With both fans plugged in I would get a reading of 0.8K Ohms of resistance through the wires on J2. Then I took out the Evap fan and tested the circuit with the Condenser fan in. I was getting 1.5K Ohms through the J2 wires. Testing the Evap fan through the pig tail wires I was getting 1.5K Ohms. Testing both the new fans I was getting 1.5K Ohms. Since I had the new fans I decided to just go ahead and install them along with the new Mother Board. Side note the Condenser fan on this model is not fun to remove and install. 

When I got the fans in and hooked up prior to any power or hooking up to the Mother Board I tested the fans. I was getting 0.8K Ohms of resistance through the J2 wires. So now I have 2 used working fans in case anything goes wrong with them. I got the new Mother Board hooked up and turned on the power and it works. It has almost cooled down to fridge temps, so soon I can get the food out of the ice chests and get back to more important things like brewing beer. 

Thanks...