Dacor ERD30s06 Bake Element Not Heating

[das234]

I'm hoping for some diagnostic help with this oven.  It is the dual fuel Dacor range with electric bake element on the bottom, electric "Pure Convection" element at the back and gas broiler up top.  The bake element does not heat.  I've done a fair amount of troubleshooting but I'm stuck.  Here's what I know so far:

1) When I put the oven in bake mode, the fan comes on as expected, the broiler element comes on to preheat as expected but the bake element does not come on.

2) Broiler mode works fine and pure convection mode also works.

3) The bake element has no apparent breaks or deformities and has electrical continuity with resistance measuring 14 ohms.

4) The wire leads to the bake element don't appear burned or damaged on visual inspection.

5) Neither hi-temp switch was tripped and both had continuity.  I believe they are normally closed so that seems ok.

6) I don't suspect the temperature sensor because the pure convection and broiler modes work fine.  My novice thinking is that those modes would not work either if the temp sensor was bad.  I attempted to pull it out and test it but the wires did not want to pull out easily and I didn't want to yank them so I left it alone.

It seems that the bake element is simply not getting the signal to turn on but I'm not sure what that means.  Relay board maybe?

I don't have the tool for removing the brass burner lock rings so I wasn't able to dismantle the top and gain decent access to the electronics but I'm guessing that may be what I need to do next.  

 

Can anyone offer some help and direction? 

[darren412]

1)The oven relay board is    NLA     No Longer Available  for starters. Yes it is most likely your next move to gain access to the oven relay board once there you can also get easier access to the bake element wiring and verify the wiring is good.  I'm going to say that the bake elements relay on the relay board is shot.  2)  there is a tool for those brass nuts      https://www.amazon.com/Dacor-86007C-BURNER-RING-TOOL-CHROMED/dp/B001DPOZIY    That you are trying to unscrew to get the top off.   Its a night mare with those brass nuts. If your not experienced at trying to get them unscrewed they will strip and then its expensive. Use some penetrant oil to them all. They seize on there with the slightest resistence once that happens it not only will not come off but it will bend the burner tubes and bases. They have to be screwed out in a way that there is no downward pressure on the brass nut as you back them out.  If your lucky enough to get all thttps://www.amazon.com/Dacor-86405-BRASS-NUT-HEAD/dp/B001DPPA4M  the brass nuts off and remove the cover without damaging anything, you have done " REAL well. once the tops off there is an access plate that needs to be removed and then you can inspect the relay boards bake element relay.  If its burnt to no return then theres a problem since the board is NLA , If there is just a burnt soldered joint on the other side that is re solderable then you can resolder that and you will be back in business.   So if you know the bake element is good and the wiring from the bake element to the bake element relay and neutral are good then the relay board is the most likely culprit.The control panel membrane can fail also but more than likely its the oven relay board.  Again if its not in your line of work to do this trying to remove the top plate can turn into a nightmare for you. Good luck

Edited October 22, 2019 by darren412

[das234]

Thanks, darren412, for your reply. 

It's nice to hear that I was on the right track with the relay board.  Of course, having that part NLA is another story.  Given the difficulty of removing the top, along with the fact that I have to buy a special tool (and possibly replacement brass nuts) AND the fact that the relay board is NLA, is this even something I should pursue?  Or should I just learn how to cook in Pure Convection mode and use that all the time?  I guess if it's a matter of just reflowing a solder joint, I could fix that but, otherwise, what do I stand to gain by taking it apart if I can't get the part to fix it?    

[darren412]

I sent you a link for the brass nut removal tool. Just a few bucks for the tool and worth the shot .  if you can budge the brass nuts a little bit first at all the burners .then you have a good chance of removing the top. to inspect the ecu for possible repairs

[das234]

I took your advice and ordered the tool.  Unfortunately, the one I got from amazon doesn't fit.  The inside span in too small so it won't fit over the threads.  It has the right part number but it's no good.  I plan to return it but I'm back on the hunt for a tool that fits now.  

[darren412]

#1  Have the gas shut off before anything.           The tool  should fit .   Any way you can modify the tool somehow to make it fit ?   You just need the tool tabs to go into the slots in the brass nut.  Are the tabs lining up on the tool with the slots on the brass nut ?  If the tabs line up and you can modify the tool to work and fit into the burner tube , that may be your solution but not sure why the tool is to wide to go down into the burner base tube so you can reach the slots on the brass nut.  If the tool can not be slightly modified to go down into the burner base tube , You may also be able to use a pair of needle nose pliers and open them up to see if the pliers will fit into the slots of the brass nut,  that may or may not work.  A long pair might work. Pushing downward pressure on the cook top cover itself while at the same time backing off the brass nut may help also. Using a pair of adjustable pliers or water pump pliers can squash the brass nut and once that happens your done so I dont suggest using pliers what so ever But thats your call.   If your able to gring or cut one slot in the side of the brass nut without damaging any of the burner tube threads , the brass nut may be easily pryed off  the burner base tube that way also.  I removed one this way before but that particular stove only had  "One"  brass nut that I could not unscrew off. Then just order some new brass nuts if you find the relay board's bake element relay is the culprit and can be repaired by you.  Again This is the part that I had mentioned to you , that can turn into a nightmare.  Also I mentioned to you that you want to make sure that all of the brass nuts will budge and start to unscrew a little bit so you know what your up against. Take off the brass nuts if you can , that remove easily and then go to the difficult one  or one's next.  With that all said ,  NOW !  If you successfully remove all the brass nuts and remove the top.  Putting the top back on can give you a hard time also.  I suggest you have a small wire brush and you may even want to replace the brass nuts with new ones. Again thats your call if you dont.   Any tiny little fragment of metal that comes from the brass ring threads or the aluminum burner base threads will make it very difficult to properly re install the brass nut back on the burner base . Be aware ! all and any threads whether its the brass nut threads or the burner base threads, they have to be totally cleaned and cleared properly to re install the top.  You can get so far as finding the issue and fixing it and thinking your all set now. Well thats not the case.  The top has to go back on and the brass nuts have to be retightened again . If there is any kind of cantamination in the brass nut threads or on the burner base threads when putting the nuts back on, the brass nuts will seize and then your all done and the nightmare begins because you will never get the top back down and seated properly to the burner base.  So be prepared , this can turn into an expensive repair if you damage the burner base threads.  You now have to replace the burner base !  Sometimes if there was an un qualified technician who took the stove apart before for a warranty repair or just a plain repair , they throw the top back on in a hurry with out cleaning the threads and then throw it all together so it works.  Now the next person that tries to remove the top will get looked at as if they were the one that messed the top up and thats why the brass nuts didnt come off.   I'm sorry but this procedure has more to it than you think. and if you havent done a few of these and are not qualified to attemp this procedure, I would think twice about getting yourself involved with this.  Just my opinion das234    This can be a very expensive learning process if you never have successfully un installed and re installed one of these Dacor model stove tops.  good luck ok

[Kendell]

Corecentric can probably rebuild your pwb or they may have a rebuilt one in stock. I have also used channel lock pliers laying flat to remove nut. You have to be extremely careful to prevent scratching stove top.  Best way is using correct tool

[dwschnelli]

I believe this model has an infrared broiler, which is Dacor's quick method to preheat, which will be necessary before the bake element comes on.  You mentioned that the broiler functions...are you sure it ignites? I would replace the infrared igniter if uncertain. I was stumped by the same symptoms until tech support suddenly remembered "No bake without preheat broil on Dual Fuel".