LG Steam Dryer DLEX3001W not heating well

[Joe_Fire]

Me again 

 

New problem with this thing. Everything seems to be fine,no error codes,no obstructions in the ductwork. Run the factory  diagnostic things appear ok. but I'm not sure.

Just that it doest get real hot, just kind of warm. Normal Automatic just doesn't get it done anymore. The Speed Dry setting seems to get the "best" result. Recently replaced the rollers.

Is this most likely a Thermistor ? 

[john63]

What is length of the vent...very short?

Is the customer doing small loads (ie, widow or widower)?

Is the dryer dead level or more elevated at the front than rear?

[Scottekarate]

There are two coils on your heater. It's possible that one of those coils has failed open. An easy way to check is to gain access to the main board for this dryer (remove the top panel) and look for the black relay and the white relay. Usually, the wire harness connector will be colored. With the dryer unplugged, unplug those two relays and measure resistance across the blue wire and the yellow wire. You should read around 20 ohms. If you read OL  or infinity, then you likely have a bad coil on the heater box. One bad coil would create the very problem you've described.

[Joe_Fire]

Vent run is probably 8-10 ft straight up. Checked the roof vent, it did have some accumulation at the exit (cleaned out maybe a handful) but a strong flow none the less.

Stacked unit sits level

normal to large loads. 

Speed dry seems to be the only setting that gets hot. 

[Joe_Fire]

2 minutes ago, Scottekarate said:

There are two coils on your heater. It's possible that one of those coils has failed open. An easy way to check is to gain access to the main board for this dryer (remove the top panel) and look for the black relay and the white relay. Usually, the wire harness connector will be colored. With the dryer unplugged, unplug those two relays and measure resistance across the blue wire and the yellow wire. You should read around 20 ohms. If you read OL  or infinity, then you likely have a bad coil on the heater box. One bad coil would create the very problem you've described.

Thanks for the tip I'll check it out

[Scottekarate]

Let is know what you find.

[john63]

Is the stacked laundry in a confined area...like a closet or small room?

Keep door to laundry room open when dryer is running.

 

[john63]

Try a load of laundry...with vent removed.

Use Normal Cycle.

Is clothing dry at end of cycle?

[darren412]

Hi Joe,  How did you do with the repair on your dryer issue ?    Have you taken the suggestions and applied them.    Post back here if you can as to what the out come was with your steam dryer issue.   Good luck brother

[Joe_Fire]

 

19 hours ago, Scottekarate said:

With the dryer unplugged, unplug those two relays and measure resistance across the blue wire and the yellow wire. You should read around 20 ohms. If you read OL  or infinity, then you likely have a bad coil on the heater box.

OK so checking those 2 wires I read OL. Just to confirm  that's one wire off of each relay, right?

So now I tear it down the rest of the way and check the coils  directly?

Unless theres a way to determine which one is bad. Or is it best to just replace both?

 

Didn't try any of the other options yet.

[Joe_Fire]

14 hours ago, john63 said:

Is the stacked laundry in a confined area...like a closet or small room?

Keep door to laundry room open when dryer is running.

 

Yes they are in a closet, but they've always been in there and working fine.

[Scottekarate]

Hey Joe! One you've got the OL you know the coil is open. The heater comes as one assembly so you'll replace all of it.  Easy peasy. 

[john63]

More likely to be a loose/damaged wire.

LG heating elements are bulletproof.

 

[Joe_Fire]

15 hours ago, john63 said:

More likely to be a loose/damaged wire.

LG heating elements are bulletproof.

 

Well I went ahead and ordered the new Heating Element, when I went to replace it I found the source of the OL. The blue wire was burned off of the element at the connection. So I repaired the end of the wire and put in the new heater. Seems to be working normally now.

Not sure what caused that but it's not the first 'burned out" thing I've found on this thing.https://share.icloud.com/photos/0MgRkbbcKmf4XxdSGVlr1QUDQ

(not sure if the pic posted properly or not)

Thanks again for everyone's help

[Scottekarate]

Probably a loose crimp on one of the terminal  ends.

[darren412]

On 10/29/2019 at 10:10 PM, john63 said:

More likely to be a loose/damaged wire.

LG heating elements are bulletproof.

 

I carry two of the LG heater asemblys and have only needed to change one out in the last 5 years.   Your right on point John .  The LG  heating element assemblys are manufactured well.  The heating element coils are so much thinner than most average dryer heating elements and they last longer.    I realize customer abuse plays a big part in heating element malfunctions but LG has figured out a pretty good system of extracting the heat from the element assemblys  and keeping the breakdown factor to a minimum.  Their system of thermostats and the negative air extraction system is pretty good I would say .  They are doing something right John

[Brian B]

If it is not getting as hot as before, yes I would check for a bad coul or even a grounded one. Check the thermostat wires and the thermistor,but not only at 75 degree, but also run it then turn off and recheck the specs it may be out of spec if at 100 degrees the results differ from the tech sheet